Category Archives: Coffee, Kodagu (Coorg)

My coffee journey

While coffee’s third wave is about the quality of the beans, sustainability and single origin bean-to-cup brews, the next wave will focus on cold brews, innovation, and a new approach to coffee marketing.

My coffee journey
Credit: DH IllustrationDeepak Harichandan

I was five when I had my first taste of coffee. It was just a few drops, milky and sweet. I insisted on tasting it, as my coffee-loving mother always felt ‘refreshed’ after drinking ‘kaapi’. As a teenager, study time started with a cup of ‘good’ instant coffee. My Tamil Brahmin best friend’s paati (grandmother) introduced me to filter coffee a few years later. Raised in Delhi in the ’90s, coffee wasn’t necessarily a hot topic. There were no cafes and coffee chains then. Latte, cappuccino, and Americano were not part of my vocabulary yet.  

I enjoyed my filter coffee everyday, but I rarely ventured beyond that. Over the years, I read about the coffee varieties and trends. I considered myself a coffee lover, but it wasn’t until a month ago that I realised my understanding of coffee was limited. First, I had the opportunity of visiting a coffee plantation in Kodagu. Intrigued by what I learned there, I felt compelled to attend the World Coffee Conference at Bengaluru Palace a few days later. It was in September, around International Coffee Day. It opened to me a world of coffee, with its variety of beans, processing and brewing methods, and roasts. Since then, I have signed up for coffee cupping sessions, interacted with coffee experts and sampled unusual brews.

At the India International Coffee Festival in Bengaluru 10 years ago, I got to paint with a coffee concoction. I also participated in latte art tutorials, and got to look at the latest farming equipment being used. Much has changed since.

What’s brewing?

Living in Karnataka, a state that accounts for more than 70 per cent of the country’s total coffee production, the beverage is hard to escape. Bengaluru is home to numerous cafes, besides international chains such as Costa Coffee, Starbucks and most recently, Tim Hortons.

Awareness about coffee has grown in recent years. People are clued in on the different roasts (light, medium or dark), where their beans are sourced from (estates and regions), and their flavour profiles (broadly earthy, fruity, nutty or floral). 

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Credit: DH IllustrationDeepak Harichandan

Arabica and robusta are the most common varieties grown in India. Arabica has a smoother and sweeter flavour, with hints of fruit, chocolate, nuts, and caramel. It is used mostly for speciality coffee. Robusta coffee is known to have a strong and bitter taste. It is earthy, with notes of burnt wood. It is the most commonly used variety in South India. Low grade robusta beans are used to make instant coffee powder. Chicory, often added to coffee powder, lends it the ‘roasted’ flavour. An excess of it can make the coffee feel stronger or bitter. 

Broadly, there are two types of coffee processing — natural and washed. In the natural process, the cherry is allowed to dry out completely and fermentation is uncontrolled, as it happens inside the cherry itself. In washed processing, the pulp and skin are removed but the mucilage on the bean is broken down by the yeast and bacteria on the cherry and its skin.

A recent addition to my kitchen gear is a French press. After a wait of about five minutes, you can enjoy an aromatic cup of coffee with its oils retained. At the conference, I was introduced to other options: the pour over, aeropress, siphon, Chemex and percolator. 

Home cafe 

One of the stalls I visited was promoting the e-commerce platform Something’s Brewing, a part of Kaapi Machines, a company that sells coffee equipment and accessories. The start-up was born during the pandemic.

Vivek Vishwanathan, a representative of the company, took me through how I could brew a good cuppa with their Budan espresso machine, which has an inbuilt grinder. The brew, made from arabica coffee, had a heavy body and was intense on the palate. It tasted like it was processed with its oils, giving it the thick consistency that one experiences at good cafes. The machine is a time saver, he told me. He stressed the importance of the right grind size for each brewing method, the quality of coffee beans, and the importance of tamping the coffee evenly in the portafilter while brewing.

Of the many unique coffees I have tried, the bubblegum coffee and the toffee coffee from Hatti Kaapi have stayed in my mind. They brought back memories of Boomer, the strawberry-flavoured bubblegum of my childhood, and old-fashioned caramel candies. 

The Coffee Board of India classifies speciality coffee into five broad categories — decaffeinated coffee (coffee with caffeine removed artificially), organic coffee (grown without using chemicals and pesticides), high grown coffee (grown at higher elevations — 4,000 ft and above), estate coffee or single origin coffees (highlighted by the special features of the estate it is grown in), and variety coffee (Indian varieties like Kents, Agaro, Cioccie, and CxR, which stand out for their quality).

Kents is a varietal of the arabica, and is known for better yield and its resistance to leaf rust, while CxR is a robusta coffee, developed for better yield and a better flavour profile. Agaro coffee is an arabica variety, mostly grown in Ethiopia. It is found in few farms in India. Cioccie is also an old Ethiopian variety.

In terms of speciality coffee, India has a long way to go, says Abhinav Mathur, managing director of Kaapi Machines. “The popularity of speciality roasters is just kicking off in our country, with companies like Blue Tokai Coffee Roasters and Third Wave Coffee Roasters getting funding,” he shared.

In the near future, beverage types will go through more innovations, he said. Abhinav says a majority of their consumers are well-travelled professionals who have sampled coffees across the world, and “the curious Gen-Z crowd who are getting started early”. “They ask many questions, some of which even we have to research. They are value and sustainability conscious, and are aware of the various flavour profiles and coffee types available now,” he added. 

While coffee’s third wave is about the quality of the beans, sustainability and single origin bean-to-cup brews, the next wave will focus on cold brews, innovation, and a new approach to coffee marketing. Coffee experts say that innovation will revolve around home brewing and speciality equipment. 

Farm to cup

Some are also paying attention to how their coffee is grown. I spoke to A M Ganapathy, the owner of Vivekananda Coffee Estate, a family-owned plantation in Chettalli, Kodagu. Here, regenerative agricultural practices put together by the Speciality Coffee Association, a trade body, have been diligently implemented. 

The practices help improve the quality of the soil. “Increasingly, there is a demand for chemical-free coffee. Regenerative agriculture is a holistic farming system that focuses on soil health, food quality, biodiversity improvement, water and air quality. It improves soil health through practices that increase soil organic matter. It also aims at enhancing water holding capacity and carbon sequestration. The government is encouraging farmers to take up this practice,” Ganapathy explained. 

The process also supports biodiversity and returns carbon and nutrients to the soil. “Soil organic carbon and soil organic matter are vital for plant growth. It also facilitates water infiltration, retention and nutrient cycling, reduces erosion, and provides habitat and food for diverse species,” he added.

Regenerative agriculture includes cover crops (that are planted to cover the soil rather than for the purpose of being harvested), integration of livestock and reduced or zero tillage, he shared. “Our annual yield is moderate and varies between three-fourth to one tonne per acre,” he said.

Taste notes

My newfound interest in brewing methods and roasts led me to sign up for a few tasting experiences. At the Starbucks Coffee outlet on Lavelle Road, Bengaluru, cupping sessions are held regularly. At one of their sessions, I tried their Diwali Blend and the Single Origin Kenya Coffee, sourced from Kenya.

At the slow coffee bar, four brewing methods awaited me — a siphon, Chemex, French press, and pour over. Though I had seen them at the Conference, I was taken by the chemistry lab-like setup. It was fascinating to watch the Diwali Blend being made in the siphon, and the Kenyan coffee in a Chemex.

The siphon is a vacuum-filtration method, which uses halogen lights to heat water. The movement of evaporated water from the lower chamber to the upper chamber and back was theatrical to watch. The Chemex is considered a hybrid brewing method. Its one-piece hourglass shape with a collar looked decorative, more than like coffee equipment.

The Diwali Blend was a blonde roast. It was sweet and aromatic (it had notes of dusted cocoa, apricot, and dried ginger). I took a whiff of the freshly ground Kenyan coffee. It was floral and fruity. When I took a sip it made my mouth water. This meant that it was highly acidic, I was told. 

The brewmaster, Madhav, explained: “The brewing methods are based on how one likes one’s coffee, keeping in mind factors like intensity and taste.” Each brewing method has its own characteristics. A siphon is said to produce a delicate and aromatic cup, while the Chemex with its triple-layer paper filter makes a smooth and clean cup. The pour over method makes a cup of rich, clean and balanced coffee, and the French press is used to make a full-bodied, thick cup of coffee, where the oils are retained.

I then tasted the Sumatran coffee (a single origin coffee from Indonesia) made in a pour over. It had earthy and herbal notes. One whiff of it reminded me of the first rains of the monsoon season.  

I also tasted two cold brews — one made with coarsely ground Kenyan coffee (smooth and sweet) and a nitrogen cold brew (infused with nitrogen) of the same bean, which was creamy, refreshing and smooth.

The interesting part about such cupping sessions is the number of common and not-so-common facts one comes across.

Slurping is important in the coffee world. At the handful of coffee cupping sessions I have attended, I was urged to slurp the drink. It is the best way to taste all the different flavour notes.

At another coffee cupping session at Maverick & Farmer Coffee, Halasuru, Bengaluru, I tasted a coffee I have wanted to for years — the civet coffee (it was not the original Indonesian Kopi Luwak but an Indian version of the same). Often referred to as the ‘poop coffee’, it is made from partially digested coffee cherries, eaten and defecated by a civet cat. It was from Pankajam Estate in Idukki, Kerala. This Indian version had a hint of cardamom. I was informed by Ashish D’abreo, coffee roaster and co-founder of Maverick, that the coffee plants were grown on a cardamon estate, which could possibly explain the presence of the spice note. 

Acidity level, aged, body, dry, earthy, fine, flat, and grassy, were some of the terms I heard being used at these sessions. They made me realise there was so much more I needed to learn. 

A Plantation Tour

A visit to Yemmigoondi estate in Pollibetta, Kodagu, owned by Tata Coffee, threw light on how these plants grow and are harvested. The plantation was spread across 1,500 acres (600 odd hectares). As I took in the view of the arabica plants on the left and the robusta plants on the right, I wondered when they would harvest. A company representative told us that robusta are stouter and grow almost twice the size of an arabica plant. “For robusta, the space maintained between two plants is around 10x10ft. After applying fertiliser and culturing, robusta starts yielding by the fifth year. Arabica gives yield by the fourth year,” he added.

I learnt that the two varieties require unique environments to thrive — robusta plants are smaller in number and need more heat. Arabica starts maturing by November, and robusta matures around December. Robusta makes up 60% of the estate’s entire crop, I was told.

Puneet Das, from Tata Consumer Products, explained that consumption of instant coffee remains high in the country. “For the south of the country, where coffee is a regular habit, hyperlocalisation as a strategy works as it has native appeal. Our new coffee decoctions like Chukku Kaapi (a popular Kerala drink made from dry ginger, black pepper and coffee powder), and the Coorg Kaapi are some examples,” he said.

What is a Wave in the Coffee World ?

It refers to a period of time in the evolution of coffee. The field has gone through several big changes and innovations. The first wave (started in the 1800s) represented a shift from coffee being a novelty drink to a commodity. In the second wave (started in the 1970s), it became a culture (characterised by the arrival of coffee chains). The third wave (started in the 2000s) revolves around consumer awareness, focus on flavour profiles and the coffee bean.

The fourth wave is said to be dominated by innovation. Coffee experts say that we are now entering the fourth wave. In coffee innovation, fermentation plays an important role in unlocking or creating new flavours. In the last decade, farmers have exprerimented with many controlled fermentation processes, while working with temperature, or introduction of yeast and bacteria from other fruits. Ashish, of Maverick, says, “In 2018, we created a fruit-fermented coffee. We introduced lightly-pulped oranges into the fermentation barrel. In another case, we extracted lactic acid from milk and added it into the fermentation, which rendered a honey flavour to the coffee,” he says. Ale yeast is also being added to fermentation barrels by many, which gives the coffee notes of beer, he adds.

Indian Market

Indian coffee is considered one of the best in the world. It fetches a high premium in the international markets. Coffee is primarily an export commodity for India, and its consumption in the domestic market is 25 to 30% of the country’s production.

Cup Facts

Brazil is the biggest coffee producing country in the world, followed by Vietnam and Colombia. India comes sixth.

Decaffeinated coffee doesn’t mean that your drink is caffeine free. The decaffeination process removes about 97% of the caffeine in the beans, but it is never 100% removed.

source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> Special / by Tini Sara Anien / October 28th, 2023

The rise of mushroom coffee in India

Low on caffeine and high on protein, mushroom coffee is having its time in the sun and the rise in Indian homegrown brands in the segment is proof.

A cup of mushroom coffee contains about half the amount of caffeine than in a regular cup of coffee | Photo Credit: Getty Images

First, there were plant-based milks, then came avocados, and now there is mushroom coffee that appears to be the new kid on the block, driving a caffeinated generation to pick up a seemingly healthier alternative.

A quick Google search suggests there is curiosity rapidly building around the product. Especially in India where brands are taking a stab at it, and are now routinely answering questions on what indeed is mushroom coffee, or most importantly, how do these two ingredients even get along? “Imagine the same taste of coffee, but with about 25-30% of the coffee powder being made of mushrooms,” says Rakesh Bhatnagar, founder of Gurugram-based Rooted Active Naturals. Launched in 2020 with the aim to bring superfoods from across the globe to India, he says, “The idea was to introduce such superfoods in an easy-to-consume, potent, and tasty manner,” adding that this approach almost immediately led him to dig deeper into the medicinal qualities of mushrooms, which became the first launch category, and continues to be their top selling one.

Variants of mushroom coffee
Variants of mushroom coffee | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Think your regular earthy coffee flavours, but with a dash of nuttiness and without the cons of getting acid reflux or caffeine-induced insomnia. “It became a game changer for a caffeine addict like me, who started facing some health concerns, but also felt irritable throughout the day every time I tried to quit,” says Vinay Kumar, 33, a software engineer based in Pune. Vinay has been a shroom coffee loyalist since the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, when longer work hours at home, coupled with little to no movement meant a sleep cycle being thrown into complete disarray. “And the caffeine was only exacerbating everything. That’s when I stumbled upon mushroom coffee online and thought I should give it a shot,” says Vinay. And he never looked back. Initially, he would mostly spot international brands online, but within a year, he found more homegrown names listed on e-commerce websites. A 100-gram pack of this joe in India is priced anywhere between ₹400 and ₹1,000, with average prices hovering around ₹600 for 100 gms.

From the 1940s

Interestingly, the origins of mushroom coffee go back to a dark time in history — the World War II era to be precise, when in the 1940s, coffee became one of the first few goods to suffer from chronic and acute shortages across Europe. Consequently, an alternative was introduced in Finland, where people started to increasingly brew and consume chaga mushroom coffee. This variety of fungi grows on the back of birch trees in cold terrains like Northern Europe, Korea, Siberia, Russia, Northern Canada, and Alaska. It has traditionally been used in these cultures and other parts of Asia as an immunity booster.

An image of the processing unit at Rooted Active Naturals
An image of the processing unit at Rooted Active Naturals | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

“Our mushrooms undergo purely water-based extraction. This method preserves the critical bioactive components and ensures batch-to-batch consistency. It also prevents the loss of essential mushroom properties during the extraction process,” says Shivam Hingorani, founder of Ace Blend, a Mumbai-based company born in 2019 that deals in plant-based food.

While Rooted Active Naturals uses a blend of instant Arabica coffee with a mix of lion’s mane and chaga mushroom powder in their formulation, Ace Blend adopts a slightly different route. “We blend the chosen superfoods in their effective doses with 100 percent medium roast Arabica extract,” Shivam says of his brand that garnered over 10,000 customers in the past month. “As more consumers discover the remarkable advantages of mushroom-infused products, including improved cognitive function and jitter-free energy, we expect the demand for our mushroom coffee to continue surging worldwide at a rapid pace,” he adds.

The mushroom factbox

Some commonly used mushroom extracts to prepare coffee are derived from the chaga, reishi, lion’s mane, and cordyceps variants.These variants are known as adaptogenic mushrooms, which are considered herbs that, when consumed regularly, are known to help the body deal with stress.A cup of mushroom coffee contains about half the amount of caffeine than in a regular cup of coffee.

How to brew it?

Formulated as a powder, shroom coffee is brewed the usual way, with a teaspoon of it mixed in a cup of warm water or milk with sugar, as per taste. If one wants to have it cold, just brew it the regular way and let it cool down, before serving with ice. When this writer had her first cup of a shroom coffee blend brewed in warm water without sugar, the flavours reminded her of a well-made cappuccino, but in almond milk, as it comes with that distinctly nutty punch bearing a more velvety texture.

For 25-year-old Rosanna P from Goa — a recent shroom coffee convert — the switch happened after she had a cup of the brew at a friend’s place and did not realise it. “I actually thought it was a superior brew,” the self-proclaimed coffee connoisseur says. “The texture is just silkier. And for someone who picks her beans with utmost care, this discovery really surprised me,” she says. 

f one wants to have mushroom cofee cold, just brew it the regular way and let it cool down, before serving with ice
If one wants to have mushroom cofee cold, just brew it the regular way and let it cool down, before serving with ice | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Rosanna recalls hearing about shroom-coffee back in 2016 from a friend who lives in the US, and it is a fact corroborated by Chirag Kenia, Founder, and CEO at Urban Platter, a “gourmet grocery brand” headquartered in Mumbai and established in 2015. Chirag’s platform has been selling mushroom coffee since 2018, and he remembers a buzz around it since as early as 2017. “The US as a market started adopting these products very voraciously around 2017-18, which is also when we introduced it in India,” he says.

Chirag, however, believes the product has only reached a niche consumer base thus far, so the only way to scale it further is to underline its nutritional values as a superfood. “Mushrooms are such wondrous, nutrient-rich ingredients that immediately elevate any dish they are a part of,” he says, before predicting that the next big mushroom innovation will be snacks made of it. Clearly, it’s a mushroom world, and we are only living in it.

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Food> Features / by Arshia Dhar / October 27th, 2023

Why Coorg Is So Famous For Its Coffee And Plantation

Coorg’s long-standing tradition of cultivating coffee, and the warm hospitality of its people have rightfully earned it the title of India’s Coffee Capital.

The history of coffee in Coorg goes back to the 17th century.
The history of coffee in Coorg goes back to the 17th century.

Coorg, located in Karnataka, India, is a captivating place known for its abundant green landscapes, hilly terrain, and the delightful aroma of coffee plantations. This region, which is situated in one of India’s leading coffee-producing states, is a perfect destination for both coffee enthusiasts and nature lovers. Coorg’s long-standing tradition of cultivating coffee, its breathtaking scenery, and the warm hospitality of its people have rightfully earned it the title of India’s Coffee Capital.

In fact, when it comes to coffee production in India, the majority of it happens in the hilly areas of South Indian states, with Karnataka being the leader, responsible for 71% of the country’s coffee production, and Coorg alone contributing a significant 40% to that total.

In simple terms, the history of coffee in Coorg goes back to the 17th Century when legendary Baba Budan brought the first coffee plants to the area. He got seven coffee beans from Yemen and planted them in the Baba Budan Giri range, which marked the beginning of coffee in India. But it was during the 19th Century when the British were in charge and coffee farming in Coorg really took off. The British realized that the climate and soil in Coorg were perfect for coffee, so they started a lot of coffee plantations, and they became a big part of Coorg’s landscape.

Coorg’s coffee farms thrived because the estate owners took great care of them. They used modern techniques to grow and process coffee. Nowadays, Coorg is one of India’s biggest coffee-producing areas, and it plays a big role in India’s coffee exports. Some estates still use traditional methods to grow coffee, which keeps the original and delightful taste of this beverage alive.

Coorg’s coffee plantations focus on sustainable and eco-friendly farming methods. This means the coffee you get from there is not only tasty but also safe from pesticides and chemicals.

In the coffee-rich region of Coorg, India, which is not far from Bengaluru, during February, you’ll discover many coffee trees covered in red and green berries. Each of these berries contains two green beans inside. These beans are carefully chosen, sorted, and roasted in small batches to preserve their unique flavours and aromas, resulting in an outstanding cup of coffee.

Many of the delicious and fragrant coffee beans come from coffee plantations in Karnataka. These beans are harvested, dried, roasted, and ground to create the perfect cup of coffee you hold in your hands.

source: http://www.news18.com / News 18 / Home> Lifestyle / by Nishad Thaivalappill / October 26th, 2023

COFFEE STORY–The Rise of Indian Coffee on the Global Stage, and new Entrepreneur Opportunities

In our concluding photo essay from the World Coffee Conference and Exhibition, we feature more trends and insights for startups.

Coffee Story–the rise of Indian coffee on the global stage, and new entrepreneur opportunities

Launched in 2014, PhotoSparks is a weekly feature from YourStory, with photographs that celebrate the spirit of creativity and innovation. In the earlier 720 posts, we featured an art festival, cartoon gallery. world music festival, telecom expo, millets fair, climate change expo, wildlife conference, startup festival, Diwali rangoli, and jazz festival.

The coffee ecosystem is opening up a wide range of entrepreneurship opportunities for coffee growers, roasters, curers, blenders, packagers, and cafes. The World Coffee Conference and Exhibition (WCC), held recently in Bengaluru, showcased a broad spectrum of players in equipment manufacturing, home brewing, and associated products like alternative milk.

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“Demand for coffee has overtaken production in India. GenZ and millennials in particular are driving the coffee culture in India,” said Kailash Natani, MD, Sucafina. Indian youth are also driving trends such as the use of plant-based milk in coffees. “More than 50% of our global customer base are GenZ and millennials. 70% of the beverage that we sell is cold coffee,” observed Kelly Goodejohn, Vice President, Global Coffee Sustainability and Education, Starbucks.

WCC 2023 was inaugurated by a galaxy of national and international leaders such as Joe Kuli, Minister for Coffee from Papua New Guinea; Vanusia Nogueira, Executive Director, International Coffee Organisation; and KG Jagadeesha, Secretary, Coffee Board of India.

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Tennis champion Rohan Bopanna was designated as Brand Ambassador of WCC 2023. The event also featured traditional folk dances from coffee growing states of Odisha, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh, and the North-East.

In Part I and Part II of our coverage of WCC 2023, we showcased the diversity and range of exhibits. See also our earlier photo essays on Coffee Santhe 2015, Mango Mela 2018, and Mango Diversity Fair 2019.

Climate and soil diversity around the world lead to a rich tapestry of artisanal coffee flavours. “They can range from fruity and floral to nutty and chocolatey, catering to different cultures,” observed Yannis Apostolopoulos, CEO of US-based Specialty Coffee Association (SCA).

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“Specialty coffee fosters a sense of community. We are trying to build a market in India for specialty coffees and have made good headway. The future of India as a coffee leader looks very promising,” added DM Purnesh, President, Specialty Coffee Association of India.

Sustainability in the coffee chain was one of the key conference themes this year. “The success of the future of the coffee industry is based on the partnerships we forge with the farming community. A wholistic approach is key to reducing our environmental footprint,” said Michelle Burns, Executive Vice President- Global Coffee, Social Impact and Sustainability, Starbucks.

Harald Friedl, CEO, Green Leadership, urged the industry to explore the use of coffee in alternate products, not just as a beverage. Salvador Urrutia Loucel, Latin American Director, World Coffee Research, called for more R&D in breeding climate-resilient variants of the coffee bean.

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“The sector needs to look at alternative coffee species beyond Arabica and Robusta – the two dominant varieties today,” added Dr. Aaron Davis, Kew Gardens (UK).

“India’s growing reputation in the coffee industry, known for its sustainable and high-quality production, is gaining global recognition,” observed Dr. K.G. Jagadeesha, Secretary, Coffee Board of India.

India reportedly has six Geographical Indication (GI) tagged coffees. Many ‘coffeepreneurs’ and ‘cafepreneurs’ are finding opportunity along the entire coffee value chain, and new coffee shops have also transformed into creative hubs.

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One of the highlights of WCC 2023 was the coffee competitions. Awards were bestowed upon the National Barista Champion (Hrishikesh Mohite), Women’s Star Brewer Skills Champion (Priti Pradhan), Latte Art Champion (Mohammad Afsar), and Indian Filter Coffee Champion (Vani Shree N from Brown Bean Artistry). Other awards were given for best natural and washed coffee beans in Robusta and Arabica categories.

“This competition not only celebrated the art of coffee making but also highlighted the dedication and talent of baristas,” explains Anisha Kumari, Assistant Manager, Beverage Innovation, at leading coffee chain Cafe Coffee Day (CCD).

She was earlier part of the quality team at Hatti Kaapi. An expert in beverage development, portfolio management, and product quality, Kumari studied at BITS Mesra and Coffee Board of India, specialising in food technology and processing.

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Anisha Kumari, CCD

She particularly appreciated the session on the quality profile of Indian specialty and fine coffees. “This was a significant highlight as it emphasised India’s growing presence in the global coffee market and the exceptional quality of its coffee offerings,” she tells YourStory.

During the conference, Kumari worked at the CCD bar, crafting and serving coffees to delegates and visitors. “The response was overwhelming, as CCD has become an emotional connection for many. CCD has significantly contributed to introducing café culture in India,” she affirms.

The international event gave her a chance to hold discussions and knowledge-sharing sessions with both Indian and foreign stakeholders over a cup of coffee. “The WCC events serve as a pivotal platform for coffee entrepreneurs, offering invaluable opportunities for networking and collaboration with global coffee professionals,” Kumari says.

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There is a wealth of market insights and trends, particularly within the specialty coffee sector. “Furthermore, the conference provides a conducive environment for staying informed about industry innovations,” she adds.

“Notably, prominent brands presented a range of B2B services, spanning coffee trade and comprehensive machinery solutions encompassing packaging and connectivity,” Kumari says. Networking was facilitated between small and large coffee growers, factory mills, roasters, and distributors of café machinery.

Such forums promote collaboration and foster growth within the coffee industry. Kumari looks forward to more such events such as the Blend Bazaar and World Coffee and Tea Expo.

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“I plan to conduct coffee workshops and training sessions across India, aiming to share knowledge and expertise with aspiring baristas, coffee enthusiasts, and professionals, thereby contributing to the growth and development of the coffee community,” she enthuses.

She also offers tips for aspiring coffee entrepreneurs. “Keep exploring and trying various coffees from different cafes and experiment with innovative coffee beverages from various brands,” she says.

“By doing so, you not only support the industry but also expand your own palate and appreciation for coffee,” she suggests.

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Continuous learning is needed to keep up with new farm-level processing techniques, roasting methods, and brewing approaches. “This knowledge will not only deepen your understanding of coffee but also enhance your enjoyment of this beloved beverage,” she adds.

“So, savour the journey of coffee exploration and continue to appreciate the hard work that goes into every cup,” Kumari signs off.

Now what have you done today to pause in your busy schedule and showcase the breadth of your creative side?

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(All photographs taken by Madanmohan Rao on location at WCC2023.)

See also the YourStory pocketbook ‘Proverbs and Quotes for Entrepreneurs: A World of Inspiration for Startups,’ accessible as apps for Apple and Android devices.

Edited by Megha Reddy

source: http://www.yourstory.com / Your Story / Home> Events / by Madanmohan Rao / edited by Megha Reddy / October 15th, 2023

Brewing memories: Rediscover the bitter-sweet trail of coffee

Every person has a different relationship with coffee- some are purists – you know the ones who will talk about their beans, roasts, and brewing methods.

(IANS photo)

Every person has a different relationship with coffee- some are purists – you know the ones who will talk about their beans, roasts, and brewing methods. Others just want a caffeine hit, regardless of where and how it comes from. Then you have the adventurers, the experimentals who enjoy their beverage with a twist- they’ll try raspberry, mint, bubblegum, and be risque with their drink. What we are trying to say is the way we intake coffee might differ, but we’re all united by our need for this concoction.

You’ve heard of Champagne from France, but did you know that coffee also has its GI tags – namely from Kodagu (Coorg), Bababudangiri, Chikkamagaluru, Araku Valley and Wayanad?

Currently, India is the only country in the world where the entire coffee cultivation is grown under shade, hand-picked and sun dried. Indian coffee beans are exported widely around the globe, and valued especially in European markets as ‘premium’ coffee. In 2022-2023 alone, India is estimated to have produced about 3,52,000 metric tonnes of coffee beans (Arabica and Robusta), with the southern regions dominating the landscape with a produce of 326,415 metric tonnes.

In India, our southern counterpart shares an intimate relation with these dark beans- A steaming cup of filter kaapi is very personal to the residents here and rightfully so since, this is where coffee was born and grew up. Coffee has been an innate part of life in these hilly regions and it has everything to do with these four places- Chikkamagaluru, Kodagu (Coorg), Wayanad, Araku Valley.

Chikkamagaluru – Arabica

The birthplace of the world’s most adored beverage is known for tall lush green trees and huge coffee estate produces 96,180 Metric tonnes of coffee, making it India’s largest producer. Arabica and Robusta are the two kinds found in these regions the most. Visit Chikkamagaluru and go on a tour of the coffee plantations to discover how coffee is made. You can also try Korebi Coffee’s Barbara Estate Beans, available on CRED Store.

Kodagu (Coorg) – Arabica

Coorg is a tiny district tucked away into the deep valleys of a fertile stretch famous for Arabica and Robusta. Score some of this 100% authentic Arabica coffee from Estate Monkeys single estate range, and while you’re at it, don’t miss out on a tour of these rich, dense plantations!

Estate Monkeys brings you fresh, 100% pure and premium Arabica beans from Baragalli Estate & Puttana Koppalu Estate plantations across North Coorg. Selectivity, traceability, transparency and quality describes and complements this coffee. From growing to brewing, every step is monitored and accounted for.

The first step of quality check takes place at the estate level. Shade-grown coffee supports biodiversity, native flora and fauna and migratory birds. They retain huge biodiversity thus complementing the coffee plants with various fruit bearing trees and spices which as a matter of fact adds on to the flavours of coffee. The hand-picked ripe cherries are hand-sorted with utmost care. They are introduced into machines to remove the fruit pulp and later washed in clear water to remove the mucilage. The washed beans are laid out in thin layers and dried naturally under the sun for a few days constantly by using rakes and later transferred into hulling machines for removal of the skin.

Wayanad – Robusta

In the Wayanad district of Kerala, Robusta coffee is grown both as a pure crop and in combination with pepper. The majority of Kerala’s coffee is grown in Wayanad, which also serves as the foundation of the state’s coffee industry. The region has a lot to offer to nature enthusiasts and people looking for a quiet, serene break.

Araku Valley – Arabica

Arabica here has a light to medium strength and a lovely acidity with a grapefruit citrus note combined with a faint jaggery-like sweetness. It is grown in areas of the Koraput district in Odisha and Visakhapatnam.

Barring these GI-tagged beans, some other lesser-known but equally exciting types of coffee include Monsoon Malabar, an exclusive variety found in the Malabar region of Kerala. You can find this whole bean roasted variety through Dope Coffee Roasters, along with another infamous variety staple to the Nilgiri Regions in the south, Nilgiri Coffee Beans.

If you want to know more about the coffee world, maybe it is time for you and your family to have your own little adventure in these dense, thriving mountain regions- freshly brewed cups of bitter coffee served alongside some sweet, sweet memories.

source: http://www.thestatesman.com / The Stateman / Home> Lifestyle / by IANS, New Delhi / October 08th, 2023

Chikkamagaluru To Kodagu: Rediscover The Bitter-sweet Trail Of Coffee

Every person has a different relationship with coffee. While some are purists, others just want a caffeine hit, regardless of where and how it comes from.

coffee
Representative Image

Every person has a different relationship with coffee- some are purists – you know the ones who will talk about their beans, roasts, and brewing methods. Others just want a caffeine hit, regardless of where and how it comes from. Then you have the adventurers, the experimentals who enjoy their beverage with a twist- they’ll try raspberry, mint, bubblegum, and be risque with their drink. What we are trying to say is the way we intake coffee might differ, but we’re all united by our need for this concoction.

You’ve heard of Champagne from France, but did you know that coffee also has its GI tags – namely from Kodagu (Coorg), Bababudangiri, Chikkamagaluru, Araku Valley and Wayanad?

Currently, India is the only country in the world where the entire coffee cultivation is grown under shade, hand-picked and sun dried. Indian coffee beans are exported widely around the globe, and valued especially in European markets as ‘premium’ coffee. In 2022-2023 alone, India is estimated to have produced about 3,52,000 metric tonnes of coffee beans (Arabica and Robusta), with the southern regions dominating the landscape with a produce of 326,415 metric tonnes.

In India, our southern counterpart shares an intimate relation with these dark beans- A steaming cup of filter kaapi is very personal to the residents here and rightfully so since, this is where coffee was born and grew up. Coffee has been an innate part of life in these hilly regions and it has everything to do with these four places- Chikkamagaluru, Kodagu (Coorg), Wayanad, Araku Valley.

Chikkamagaluru – Arabica

The birthplace of the world’s most adored beverage is known for tall lush green trees and huge coffee estate produces 96,180 Metric tonnes of coffee, making it India’s largest producer. Arabica and Robusta are the two kinds found in these regions the most. Visit Chikkamagaluru and go on a tour of the coffee plantations to discover how coffee is made. You can also try Korebi Coffee’s Barbara Estate Beans, available on CRED Store.

Kodagu (Coorg) – Arabica

Coorg is a tiny district tucked away into the deep valleys of a fertile stretch famous for Arabica and Robusta. Score some of this 100% authentic Arabica coffee from Estate Monkeys single estate range, and while you’re at it, don’t miss out on a tour of these rich, dense plantations!

Estate Monkeys brings you fresh, 100% pure and premium Arabica beans from Baragalli Estate & Puttana Koppalu Estate plantations across North Coorg. Selectivity, traceability, transparency and quality describes and complements this coffee. From growing to brewing, every step is monitored and accounted for.

The first step of quality check takes place at the estate level. Shade-grown coffee supports biodiversity, native flora and fauna and migratory birds. They retain huge biodiversity thus complementing the coffee plants with various fruit bearing trees and spices which as a matter of fact adds on to the flavours of coffee. The hand-picked ripe cherries are hand-sorted with utmost care. They are introduced into machines to remove the fruit pulp and later washed in clear water to remove the mucilage. The washed beans are laid out in thin layers and dried naturally under the sun for a few days constantly by using rakes and later transferred into hulling machines for removal of the skin.

Wayanad – Robusta

In the Wayanad district of Kerala, Robusta coffee is grown both as a pure crop and in combination with pepper. The majority of Kerala’s coffee is grown in Wayanad, which also serves as the foundation of the state’s coffee industry. The region has a lot to offer to nature enthusiasts and people looking for a quiet, serene break.

Araku Valley – Arabica

Arabica here has a light to medium strength and a lovely acidity with a grapefruit citrus note combined with a faint jaggery-like sweetness. It is grown in areas of the Koraput district in Odisha and Visakhapatnam.

Barring these GI-tagged beans, some other lesser-known but equally exciting types of coffee include Monsoon Malabar, an exclusive variety found in the Malabar region of Kerala. You can find this whole bean roasted variety through Dope Coffee Roasters, along with another infamous variety staple to the Nilgiri Regions in the south, Nilgiri Coffee Beans. 

If you want to know more about the coffee world, maybe it is time for you and your family to have your own little adventure in these dense, thriving mountain regions- freshly brewed cups of bitter coffee served alongside some sweet, sweet memories.

source: http://www.republicworld.com / Republic World.com / Home> English News> Lifestyle> Food / by Indo-Asian News Service – IANS / September 30th, 2023

Pilgrim and the seven magical seeds that brought Arab coffee to shores of India

India is home to 16 distinct varieties of coffee. (Supplied)
India is home to 16 distinct varieties of coffee. (Supplied)

India, the world’s sixth-largest coffee grower, on an average produces about 3.2 lakh tons of coffee every year of which 75 percent are exported to countries like Italy, Germany, Russia, Belgium and Turkey. Today, India is home to 16 distinct varieties of coffee.

The journey of coffee to India has a vivid Arab connection. A devout pilgrim hailing from Chickmagalur, a picturesque hill station in India’s Karnataka state, Hazarat Shah Janab Magatabi, fondly known as Baba Budan, on his return journey, around 1600 AD via Yemen brought with him seven Coffee Arabica seeds by strapping them to his chest under his tunic.

Bababudangiri Hills in Chickmagalur where coffee was first planted in India. (Supplied)
Bababudangiri Hills in Chickmagalur where coffee was first planted in India. (Supplied)

Legend has it that Arabs were extremely protective about their coffee industry and taking the seeds outside was not allowed. The saint had known that they were magical seeds for making refreshing beverage as he had tasted the kahwa (Arabic for coffee) in Mocha, a port city of Yemen that overlooks the Red Sea.

Besides being a trading hub for coffee, Mocha was the source of the popular Mocha coffee beans. After reaching his native place, Baba Budan sowed the seeds in his hermitage garden near a hill cave at Chandragiri and the rest is history.

Chickmagalur is a picturesque hill station in India’s Karnataka state. (Supplied)
Chickmagalur is a picturesque hill station in India’s Karnataka state. (Supplied)

The coffee plants gradually spread as backyard plantings, and later on to the hills. The hills are now called Baba Budan Hills after the him. Today Chickmagalur, the birthplace of coffee in India, is filled with coffee plantations throughout its length and breadth.

Besides Chickmagalur, the charming region of Coorg is also one of the major grower of coffee. Coffee cultivation grew and thrived in India during the British rule and beyond.

A fall amid coffee plantations in Chickmagalur. (Supplied)
A fall amid coffee plantations in Chickmagalur. (Supplied)

The Dutch began to harvest coffee in the Malabar region, but a major transition happened when the British led a relentless drive to set up Arabica coffee plantations across the hilly regions in South India, where the climatic conditions were more favorable for the crop.

Grown under a canopy of thick natural shade in ecologically sensitive regions of the Western and Eastern Ghats spread over Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu, Indian coffee quickly spread to non-traditional areas like Andhra Pradesh and Odisha on the Eastern Coast; Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Tripura, Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh in the North East. Despite many states growing coffee, Karnataka and Kerala, accounting for nearly 90 percent of total production.

The charming region of Coorg is also one of the major grower of coffee. (Supplied)
The charming region of Coorg is also one of the major grower of coffee. (Supplied)

In India, based on region of production, 13 regional coffees are classified: Anamalais, Bababudangiris, Biligiris, Araku Valley, Brahmaputra, Shevaroys, and Pulneys (for Arabica) and Wayanaad and Travancore (for Robusta). Coorg, Chikmagalur, Nilgiris and Manjarabad are famous for both Arabica and Robusta.

Apart from these 13, there are three Specialty Coffees classified based on their international popularity. They are Monsooned Malabar, Mysore Nuggets and Robusta Kaapi Royale.

Stall owners are thankful to Arabia for the wonderful coffee. (Supplied)
Stall owners are thankful to Arabia for the wonderful coffee. (Supplied)

During a recent visit to Baba Budan hills, this correspondent spoke to stall owners and few tourists who still are thankful to Arabia for the wonderful coffee.

One stall owner who sells cool drinks and snacks on the hills overlooking the shrine summed up, “It is because of Baba Budan that India got coffee so early and the credit for discovering coffee goes to Arabs who invented and discovered hundreds of stuff including the coffee.”

Little wonder then a small cup of coffee has so much history behind it.

source: http://www.english.alarabiya.net / AlArabiya News / Home> Features / by Aftab Husain Kola / October 07th, 2018

Uplift of Small Farmers drives this Bengaluru Coffee Start-up

Ex-banker Soomanna Mandepanda and his wife, Puja Soomanna set up their startup Humblebean in 2017 to ensure better prices and reach for small coffee farmers and improve every part of the value chain.

Uplift of small farmers drives this Bengaluru coffee startup

For former banker Soomanna Mandepanda, the motivation for setting up Humblebean was not just to sell the best coffees, but more importantly, uplift the small and medium Indian farmers who grow them. 

In the process, he is trying to bring about changes at almost each stage of the business — from cultivation and supply chain to research and education. 

Founded in 2017 by Soomanna and his wife and former Yahoo executive Puja Soomanna, Bengaluru-based Humblebean works on an omnichannel model: It ties up with small coffee farmers in south India, roasts and grounds supply, provides the beans to roasters, exports its products, operates brew bars, and has an online presence. 

A responsible way to grow coffee 

The coffee drinking experience has been gaining traction in India, with the market for the brew expected to record a compound annual growth rate of 7.2 percent during 2021-25, according to a January 2021 Statista report. 

Startups including Sleepy Owl, The Flying Squirrel, and Coffeeza, as well as shops such as Third Wave Coffee Roasters are making their presence felt in the market. 

India is the world’s sixth-largest producer of coffee and fifth in terms of exports; in fact, 70 percent of its production is exported, says a January 2021 report by the India Brand Equity Foundation. Yet, Soomanna says, “a lot of small and medium farmers and farms aren’t getting the kind of business and reach they should”. 

Soomanna would know: he spent most of his childhood on the coffee estates of Coorg and was a small farmer before moving to the world of finance and banking for 13 years. One way to correct the imbalance, he says, is by “making great biodiverse coffee that farms in India are already poised to do”.  

According to him, 80-90 percent of coffee farms in India are held by small and medium farmers, whose secondary income comes from crops such as jackfruit, avocado, pepper, and orange that are part of the same farms. 

Cultivating other crops alongside coffee “ensures automatic carbon sequestration, top soil replenishment, and lesser need to feed chemicals unlike commercial crops grown in other countries”, says Soomanna. “The mining of the minerals is automatic and you become carbon neutral.” 

Humblebean
Puja Soomanna

Advocating farmer-friendly norms 

Increasingly popular among young consumers are organic, speciality, and Rainforest Alliance coffees that respectively employ natural methods of cultivation dispensing with harmful chemicals, are of the highest grade being derived from a single origin or single estate, and protect the environment as well as worker rights. 

However, in India these certified varieties are grown largely on rich estates; most small and medium farmers cannot afford the costly certifications and grades.   

Coffee cultivation and the business are still quite unorganised in India, the certifications cost a lot of money, and need constant follow-ups, says Soomanna. 

“The norms are difficult to adhere to for most small farmers. It is a replication of an American model.”

______________________

He says most large corporations in India export to Europe. “The small companies in Hassan, Chikmagalur, etc. certify about 150 estates and add the tags. But the farmer doesn’t get the price because the better prices are still being fetched with the local trader. The local traders are important, but the real traceability is lost.” 

As farmers don’t get better prices, there is little driving them to improve their produce, he says. “Speciality coffee is something few farmers can afford to grow.” 

Hence, the need to bring in farmer-friendly rules, he says.

Humblebean
The Humblebean coffee

Promoting social value investing

Given the largely unorganised state of affairs, Humblebean focused on getting farmers on board. The team collected random samples, tasted them, and guided farmers on growing the beans in a better way. 

By 2018, the team had got 50-60 farmers on board and given them assessment reports free of cost. Until then, the startup was in its pre-revenue stages, bootstrapped with funds from family and friends. 

The team then focused on getting roasters to directly buy from farmers. For this, it adopted the idea of social value investing, in which everyone who is part of the value chain comes together to solve a problem and there is money in it for all. 

_______________________

“Once we got the farmers on board, we decided to tie up with brands and introduce them to the new portfolios of coffees,” says Soomanna. “We incubated close to four different brands in India from scratch to start a unique brand with a different blend. The idea was to bring in multiple partnerships and inclusiveness in the farming community on one platform.” 

Most of the speciality coffee firms have restricted names and types of beans grown on particular estates. “The idea is to bring in more brands that can access different estates, work with them, and encourage the farmers,” says Soomanna. 

Humblebean also fulfils the complete roast and ground process for such brands and even gives them a credit facility, he says. 

Humblebean

Quality comes with education 

Towards the end of 2018 and early 2019, the Humblebean team found that coffees served at most star hotels weren’t up to the mark. 

One of the reasons for this, Soomanna says, is that coffee as education is lacking in hotel management schools: one has to go to Italy to learn more about its nuances. The Coffee Board of India mostly takes care of the functionality, he says. 

___________________________

“We met a few management schools and after some discussions it was decided that the colleges would look at it as part of the curriculum,” says Soomanna. 

Brewing innovative Indian blends

Even as Humblebean works to improve every part of the value chain, it is trying to offer consumers a very Indian coffee drinking experience.

To that end, the startup opened its first Brew Bar in the food experience section of a workspace on Bengaluru’s Residency Road in 2019. Humblebean was one of the early members of that workspace set up by a Singapore-based company. 

Puja, who conceptualised Brew Bar, spent time innovating the blends with the use of Indian robustas.  

“We don’t serve a single cup of speciality coffee; we wanted to make sure through the brewing methods can small and medium farmers come into mainstream brewing?” says Soomanna. 

_______________________

He says these Indian blends “aren’t being used by a single new-age speciality coffee company” as they are considered “harsh and used as a filler across the world. But they are unique and you need great expertise and experience to make a robusta out of them”. 

Following research and development, the startup has also come up with its own set of products. Together with B2B partners, it has launched these products online and will soon sell them at other marketplaces. The range is priced at Rs 220-350 for 250 gm for limited editions and depending on the roast. 

“Indian coffees can have a global impact,” says Soomanna. “The idea is to be farmer-friendly and also not cause too much environmental damage. We want to bring an amazing cup of coffee from the farms the way it should be drunk.”

Edited by Lena Saha

source: http://www.yourstory.com / YourStory / Home> / by Sindhu Kashyaap / edited by Lena Saha / February 07th, 2021

Coffee trail: Explore Karnataka’s coffee museums in Chikkamagaluru, Kodagu, Bengaluru

The Sidapur Coffee and Culture Museum offers visitors the thrill of brewing their own coffee, right from pulping, grading, roasting, and grinding.

COFFEE YATRA MUSEUM IN CHIKKAMAGALURU / SUSHEELA NAIR

After exploring and experiencing nature’s benevolence and pastoral charm in the Western Ghats, I began my coffee museum trail. From Chikkamagaluru, which houses India’s earliest coffee plantations, to Kodagu, a place whose culture is intertwined with coffee, and finally to the heart of Bengaluru city, I visited coffee museums and explored the history behind the refreshing cup of coffee.

Coffee Yatra Museum 

With a profusion of coffee curing works, Chikkamagaluru, which is undoubtedly the heart of Karnataka’s coffee country, now also houses the Coffee Yatra Museum, an initiative of the Coffee Board of India. At Coffee Yatra Museum, I saw a thematic display of coffee history, providing an insight into Indian coffee and the painstaking procedures that go into its making. A multimedia presentation charted the coffee bean’s journey from the plant to the cup, explaining processes like picking, drying, and grinding. Also on display were coffee-curing apparatus.

As I entered the building, I was bowled over by the huge posters that adorned the museum walls, showcasing interesting information about the coffees of India. Moving on, I saw the Coffee Map of India that highlighted both the traditional and the non-traditional coffee-growing regions of India. From the map, I learned about the various coffee beans grown in different areas. Next, came the Coffee Evaluation Centre where a staff member explained the processing of coffee beans. After that, I moved to a separate section where the final product is tasted before it is ready to go into the market.

Display of different methods of coffee making in the Coffee Yatra Museum

At the museum, I also learnt about the cultural practices, age-old traditions, and several other aspects of coffee. A coffee movie was played along with a coffee song, which spoke about the cultivation of coffee in the language of the farmers. I also visited the museum’s Laboratory to know about the grinding process and the equipment used to process coffee.

Sidapur Coffee and Culture Museum 

From Chikkamagaluru, we proceeded to Sidapur Coffee and Culture Museum at Evolve Back in Chikkana Halli Estate, Kodagu. The museum has different sections that talk of the story of the founding Ramapuram family, the history of coffee in Kodagu, how coffee is cultivated globally, and the art of brewing the perfect cup of coffee. It also featured the culture of Kodagu and its close association with coffee cultivation. It recreated a space that evoked the rustic feel of a coffee plantation, with materials used in the past and the present, reminiscent of eras gone by and ways of life that have been replaced with the onset of modernity.

Housed in what was originally the old smokehouse (the result of an experiment with growing rubber on the Chikkana Halli Estate), the museum has a high thatched roof with red oxide flooring, typically found in old plantation homes. Jute, coir, burlap, wood, and old metal were the other key players in the mix of materials.

Sidapur Coffee and Culture Museum

Large, dented copper and brass vessels of unique shapes and sizes lined the walls, each whispering their unique stories. “A few of the objects are from the Ramapuram family collection, such as an old hand-operated coffee roaster and typewriter that were in use on the Chikkana Halli Estate. The coffee grinder in the museum has had quite a journey. It belonged to a Kodava gentleman who ran a coffee house in Lahore before Partition, after which it was transported to Bengaluru and housed in Chinny’s Café on Brigade Road for many years,” said Jos Ramapuram, executive director, Marketing, Evolve Back.

The unbelievably large tree stump that formed the base of the centre table in the coffee brewing area,was from the Chikkana Halli Estate. At the Coffee Museum I experienced the thrill of making my own brew right from pulping, grading, roasting, and grinding. Visitors get to stroll around the museum and get a taste of life in the days of old in Kodagu, to the accompaniment of  the invigorating aroma of coffee in the air. Equally interesting was Coffeeology, a daily live session on the art and science of gourmet coffee, where visitors can observe and experience the making of an assortment of coffee preparations from around the world.

Blossom to Brew

From Evolve Back, we hopped to Tamara Kodagu where I embarked on the signature guided walk. With the Blossom to Brew experience, I learnt how a bean undergoes various processes to reach the coffee mug. The session ended at The Verandah, a 155-year-old heritage structure in Kabbinakad estate, which originally housed plantation workers. Currently, it has been restored into a rustic coffee lounge and has a gift shop stocked with natural products from the estate and library. There I learnt all about the process of grading, roasting, and blending. I ended the session relishing a hot cup of coffee at the lounge.

Coffee Lab

I culminated my coffee-museum-hopping trail with a visit to the Coffee Lab in Sadashivanagar, in the heart of Bengaluru. As I sauntered into Coffee Lab, I could sense the aroma of coffee assailing the air. Every nook and corner of the lab was adorned with mugs, coasters, antique jugs, filters, and other coffee paraphernalia collected from all over the world by Sunalini Menon. Known as Asia’s first woman of coffee, Sunali set up Coffee Lab in Bengaluru in 1997 for evaluating the technical nuances of Indian coffee.

Sunalini Menon in Coffee Lab, Bengaluru

The Coffee Lab bore the semblance of a mini museum with its walls lined with a variety of packaged coffee and curios from around the world – exquisite grinders, scented candles, filters, mugs, and a whole shelf of old-fashioned tumblers – a stark contrast to the regular sparkling white laboratories filled with shiny apparatus used for coffee accreditation and testing.

It also housed memorabilia including tribal products from coffee growing areas, areca nut pickers, traditional milk measurement units, and coffee pots. Each piece of equipment threw light on the culture of the country it came from. For instance, Italian pots have ornate carvings; the ones in Iran are known for their silver and filigree; Pakistan has a recurring crescent moon pattern: while Egypt designs sported Cleopatra. The star attraction of Coffee Lab was the painting of Mona Lisa done in coffee powder. After a journey of fascinating discoveries, I returned satiated.

Coffee beans, mugs, grinders, filters on display in Coffee Lab, Bengaluru

All pics by Susheela Nair.

Susheela Nair is an independent food, travel and lifestyle writer and photographer contributing articles, content and images to several national publications besides organising seminars and photo exhibitions. Her writings span a wide spectrum which also includes travel portals and guide books, brochures and coffee table books.

source: http://www.thenewsminute.com / The News Minute / Home> Features> Food / by Susheela Nair / edited by Maria Teresa Raju / June 26th, 2023

How Climate Change Is Brewing Trouble For India’s Coffee Industry

India’s coffee growth is being affected by unpredictable weather patterns, including insufficient rainfall, temperature fluctuations, drought, and heavy flooding.

While Baba Budan, the Sufi monk, planted the smuggled seven coffee beans in the bountiful hills of Chikmagalur, little did he know that India, one day, would be the 6th largest coffee producer, with Karnataka contributing 71 per cent of coffee production to the world. Though the coffee culture has evolved through the years, and there has been a significant boom globally for coffee, the threat for your morning cup is real and is right there knocking on the doors–climate change!

Unpredictable weather patterns are affecting most parts of the world, including India. The country grows a lot of Robusta and Arabica, and both these varieties suffer prolonged periods of inadequate rainfall, temperature rise, drought and heavy flooding.

The Case With Arabica And Robusta
Samia Subhani, a fourth-generation coffee planter and the founder of “The Kaimara Belt Coffee,” sounded distressed. Her family has been into coffee growing and trading for over 150 years, and their estate in the Baba Budangiri hills grows Arabica, the most demanding variety. Subhani’s estate has 50-80 farmers working on the plantation daily, all dependent entirely on coffee farming. But with the ongoing effects of climate change, coffee is going through a difficult phase putting all their lives at risk.

Arabica is the most demanding variety of coffee when it comes to cultivation. Photo Credit: Shutterstock

“Climate change causes leaf shedding, reduced coffee plant productivity, and increased vulnerability to pests. Extreme cold delays plant flowering and lowers berry quality. Heavy rains at irregular times cause cherries to burst and drop prematurely. Continuous heavy rains before harvest prevent drying, leading to crop spoilage,” Subhani explained.

But like they say, every solution has a problem. Subhani mentioned that we must dig deeper into our pockets and follow some mitigation measures to maintain the yield and deliver quality coffee to patrons. “So, we provide artificial rains during droughts, maintain proper irrigation in the system, avoid using harmful pesticides to control soil erosion and use only soil-friendly organic fertilisers.”

While this is the situation in an Arabica coffee plantation at Chikmagalur, Coorg, popularly known as the “Scotland of India,” is known to grow more of Robusta.

“Climate change is certain to impact coffee yields due to temperature changes. Coorg is experiencing water scarcity, affecting coffee production. Coffee plants require water, nutrients, rainfall, and sunshine for healthy growth and harvest. Fluctuations in yield have increased, with lower yields in recent years. Delayed monsoons in Coorg will further reduce usable berry production,” said Shruti Shibulal, CEO and Director of Tamara Leisure Experiences.

Though these climatic impacts are less friendly to coffee crops, Shibulal believes they have the advantage of scientific studies to inform how we can prepare for this impending change. Collaboration and knowledge sharing between those with high knowledge of the crop and those with research-driven and technological expertise is vital to assess, test and implement viable solutions.

Robusta is grown extensively in Coorg. Photo Credit: Shutterstock

“The Tamara Coorg is a 100 per cent organic plantation. Therefore, our irrigation is entirely dependent on rainfall. Rainwater harvesting tanks here facilitate the annual reuse of 90 lakh litres of rainwater. These reserves do marginally help us contend with unpredictable weather patterns. However, the coffee trees depend on rain and sunshine in balanced intervals to yield the greatest number of healthy berries,” she added.

According to Shibulal, instead of using measures like industrial fans or increased labour to speed up the drying process of coffee berries, they focus on protecting and nourishing their coffee trees using organic fertilisers and natural supplements. They also prioritise sustainable practices like reusing rainwater for irrigation and actively monitoring soil health. She further emphasised the importance of maintaining a tree canopy structure, which creates a favourable micro-climate for coffee plants and supports biodiversity.

“I would turn my support to local and regional producers or individual plantations (whenever possible). Smaller establishments will face greater challenges during times such as these. As consumers, we must lend our loyalty to those actively pursuing practices that combat climate change in the long run,” Shibulal concluded.

Climate Change Affecting Coffee Planters All Over
Tapaswini Purnesh, a fifth generation coffee planter and Director–Marketing & Promotions of Classic Coffee, mentioned that other coffee planters, including the Harley Estate at Sakleshpur in Karnataka, are also battling climate change.

“The worst scenario is the last 4 to 5 years, where we have been experiencing heavy rains during harvest season, i.e., November to February, which normally is a complete dry spell. India is unique to the sun drying of coffee. However, due to unseasonal rains during harvest, plantations are now installing mechanical dryers to avoid quality deterioration,” Purnesh said.

She also stated that coffee production is highly labour-dependent. In the long run, finding labour may become increasingly challenging, an evident trend. As the cost of implementing adaptive measures rises and the arduousness of growing quality coffee amidst climatic pressures is considered, customers must acknowledge that good coffee comes with a price tag. “The coffee growers will be motivated to enhance and refine their coffee cultivation practices if they receive adequate remuneration from the price realisation.”

Meanwhile, the latest estimates warn that climate change may mean that as much as half of the land used for coffee production worldwide may no longer be suitable for it by the middle of the century if global warming continues at this rate. So, as all these coffee planters suggest, every citizen must be more responsible towards our environment, travel responsibly, and follow more sustainable practices to save our environment and the most loved, coffee.

source: http://www.outlookindia.com / Outlook Traveller / Home> Explore> Story / by Deepa Shri Rajan / June 25th, 2023