Amrith Thimmaiah
The Bungalow 1934 is a 91-year-old family home where traditional Kodava cooking and hospitality are the order of the day.
On a hilltop in Coorg, sandwiched between a coffee estate and the Brahmagiri range, Bungalow 1934 is Amrith Thimmaiah’s home and a living chronicle of Kodava culture.
In 1934, Ketolira Diwan Bahadur Chengappa built a home in the typical Kodava-British style of bungalows, set against the backdrop of the Ballyatra hill. When Chengappa became the first Chief Commissioner of Coorg in 1943, the home became the venue for lavish parties for state guests and British officials.
In 2010, the fourth-generation of the family, Amrith Thimmaiah, and his parents Gappu and Fancy Ganapathi, opened their 91-year-old family home as a heritage homestay.
View of Bungalow 1934 set against the Ballyatra Hill / Amrith Thimmaiah
About the homestay
The Bungalow is located in Yavakapadi village, roughly 30km from Virajpet and Madikeri. There are sweeping valley views, as well as a clear view of the Igguthappa temple, a deeply significant site for Kodavas who visit the deity for a bountiful harvest.
Bedrooms at the Bungalow 1934 / Amrith Thimmaiah
With mud walls, pillars, and beams, the home is a true depiction of Coorg ‘s ainmané or ancestral homes, where vaastu dictates aspects like where the owner’s room should be located (in the kubéra moolé, or south west direction). A sprawling fig tree stands out front, and you enter into a pillared, elevated open veranda where, traditionally, Kodava families gathered for tea, family meetings or an evening drink.
The hall in the Bungalow 1934, with old plates passed from generations in Amrith’s family / Amrith Thimmaiah
Peppered with antiques and with mosaic tile floors, the main bungalow features living spaces, a large common dining area, a room where Amrith stays, and four guest bedrooms. An annexe beside the main bungalow houses two more guest bedrooms. The six spacious rooms are rustic and cosy , with blue tiles, beamed ceilings, in-built fireplaces, and four poster beds. Large windows offer ample sunlight and views of the mountains. When the temperature drops in these misty mountains, there are plenty of fireplaces across the home and porches to curl up with some homegrown coffee.
Kitchen at the Bungalow 1934 / Amrith Thimmaiah
The home is surrounded by rosewood, jackfruit and mango trees, and the grounds lead into the 70-acre Green Acres coffee estate. Arabica and Robusta coffee plants grow under a light canopy of Silver Oak, Cedar, and Benteak, dotted with pepper vines and cardamom plants. The buzz of cicadas and birdsong fill the air. Birders will be able to spot hornbills, white-bellied treepies, and the crow pheasant or the chombuka, considered lucky by the Kodavas.
About the hosts
Amrith at the BBQ lunch spread by the stream / Amrith Thimmaiah
Amrith is a rally driver by profession and a passionate host at the homestay, managing bookings personally (the homestay is not listed on any booking platforms), helping with logistics and recommendations. Guests usually come through word of mouth or as repeat visitors, and bookings are confirmed only for days a family member is present at the homestay. Staff leaves and village festivals are respected, and no bookings are made during this time.
Fancy Ganapathi making Noolputt (steamed rice noodles) with Subbu, Krishna, Chethan & Pavithra / Amrith Thimmaiah
Amrith’s mother, Fancy Ganapathi, is a powerhouse who oversees the food at the homestay. The former lecturer of Kannada literature is a horticulturalist by passion, and a catalyst in forming the 700-member Nature’s Best Food Cluster in Kodagu. The organisation trains grassroot level farmers and enables them to sell their products at outlets in Coorg. “At the Bungalow, I love to share recipes with guests and if someone wants to purchase local produce, I ensure the cluster family provides their products,” she says. Gappu Ganapathi, Amrith’s father, is the backbone of the bungalow and manages the entire coffee plantation.
The Bungalow has 8 to 10 staff members, whose families have been associated with the Ketolira family for generations. Janaki Saraswati, the cook, used to be Amrith’s nanny and was taught heirloom recipes by Amrith’s grandmother.
The food
Frozen Mulberry Crush / Amrith Thimmaiah
Koli Chuttadh (Chicken woodfire roasted) with bird’s eye chilies and lime / Amrith Thimmaiah
Food at the homestay stays true to any traditional Kodava home, with classic local dishes like khaima undae (mutton keema balls), kori erachi pulao (mutton pulao), pandhi curry and otti (pork curry with rice flatbread). Buffet style meals served in the dining area are generous and take into account dietary preferences. There are numerous vegetarian options within the gamut of Coorg cuisine, featuring seasonal produce like kaaké thopp (black nightshade leaves), kumm curry (mushroom), and kaad maangé curry, a tangy, sweet curry made with Coorg wild mangoes.
Fancy ensures that all dishes are served in the traditional Kodava style: baimbalé with otti (tender bamboo shoot curry with rice flat bread) served with ghee is a common Coorg breakfast; rice cakes or putt with meat curry; chutneys or pajjis made from seasonal produce.
Pomfret Fish Grilled / Amrith Thimmaiah
Onak Meen Barthadh (Dried Fish fry) / Amrith Thimmaiah
She also makes fruit wine and chocolates, and her mulberry and pomegranate wines are a hot favourite. This year, she has started to make oil and tea out of the rosemary growing in her small garden. The pathaya or granary on the homestay premises houses the products she makes, and make for perfect souvenirs to take home.
Amrith Thimmaiah
Amrith Thimmaiah
At dusk, Amrith has a house rule: he will host a typical Coorg-style barbeque for guests. Meat is roasted the traditional way over an open wood fire, mixed with finely chopped bird’s eye chili and the juice of bitter lime, to serve up Coorg’s favourite starter, pork chuddals. The family and staff tell stories by the fire, while you can sip cocktails under a star-studded sky with the lights of Madikeri town in the distance.
How to spend 48 hrs at The Bungalow 1934
Sparko at Charandi Polé / Amrith Thimmaiah
The homestay offers plenty of cosy nooks to read, write and while away the hours, but if you want to venture out, Amrith organizes treks to Thadiandamol peak and Chelavara Waterfalls. For those interested, Fancy conducts workshops for chocolate, wine, or jam making (4 people minimum, Rs5,000 per person). Sparko, the family dog, may take you down to a stream a short walk from the bungalow, where you can enjoy a barbeque picnic lunch by the stream.
Amrith Thimmaiah
Take a leisurely 2km walk or a guided plantation tour with Gappu at the coffee estate. Gappu and Fancy live in a home close by, with fish ponds, a cow shed, a coffee drying and storage area, and are happy to invite you over with advance notice.
Address: Yevakapadi, Coorg (Kodagu District), Karnataka
Price is Rs7,500* per person, including all meals, tea & coffee; pet-friendly, except in the monsoon
Getting There: The closest airport is Mysore or Kannur (both 3 hours away). Bengaluru is a 6-hour drive
Instagram: @TheBungalow1934
Website ; +91-9901315437
source: http://www.cntraveller.in / Conde Nast Traveller / Home> Hotels & Homestays / by Sitara Cariappa / July 13th, 2025
