Category Archives: Nature

Smell the coffee and spirituality at Coorg

Jaggery coffee may not be your cup of tea but expect the brown brew to be presented as a welcome drink at a resort in the middle of a large coffee plantation, such as the Cottabetta bungalow in Pollibetta, Coorg, south Karnataka. Nearly 130 years old, this plantation resort was once the residence of British planters. Owned by the Tatas now, it consists of a Kerala-style house with the bedrooms around the inner courtyard, offering the old-world charm and comfort.

On the hillsides, a dense forest of short and stunted trees bearing this exotic berry, in the shadow of the taller trees on which pepper creepers climb high, abounds. The soil here is good for a host of other spices, too. That’s what the traders from the west came looking for, and then settled down to rule our country.

A tour of this particular plantation gives an insight into the process of producing coffee. According to a tour guide, Udhav, a coffee plant starts yielding berries after seven years, and then goes on doing it for over 75 years. Initially the berries are red, but turn brown once they go through several stages of drying, pulping, roasting and grinding before landing on our tables as the brew with a heady aroma. Robusta is the variety that grows here. It’s the favourite of the elephants, too. Most plantations are surrounded by an electric fence to protect them from pachyderms (animals like elephants, hippopotamus and rhinoceros) but, says Udhav, “sometimes they find out how to switch it off. Generally, it is the matriarch of the herd who knows how”!

DevaKF10mar2019

Monastery

In another direction from Madikeri, about five kilometres off the Bangalore road, lies a Buddhist monastery, Namdroling. This seminary imparts education in the Nyingmapa tradition of Buddhism. Over 3,000 students from the primary to postgraduate level, from the Himalayan regions and abroad, “chant and study, work and practice” here. His Holiness Penor Rinpoche set up this monastery in 1963.

He “attained Mahaparinirvana” in 2009. The Dalai Lama consecrated it and christened it as Namdroling, though its full name is Thegchog Namdrol Shedrub Dargyeling (Land of increasing practice and teaching of the utmost yana that achieves spontaneous liberation). The centre is also known as the Golden Temple because of the three 40-feet high, gilded statues of the Buddhist icons. The entire complex has been elaborately decorated with the Tibetan-style paintings, murals and religious figures. Bylakuppe, a small town where this is located, is a far cry from Tibet in terms of climate and culture but it houses the second largest Tibetan settlement after Dharamsala.

Around 40km from Madikeri is Talakaveri, on the Brahmagiri hill, the source of the Kaveri river. A tank marks the source of the river, and a nearby temple is a popular place for pilgrimage. Not too far from Madikeri lies the Dubare elephant camp. It is located on the banks of Kaveri. Apart from watching big animals, one can do some still-river rafting close by. The best time to visit Coorg is soon after the rains when water cascades down the falls and mist rises up to shroud the mountains. Perhaps, that’s why it’s also known as the Scotland of India.

source: http://www.tribuneindia.com / The Tribune / Home> Spectrum> Travel / by Lalit Mohan / March 10th, 2019

Talakaveri, where a river is born

Talakaveri in Coorg district is where the mighty River Kaveri takes birth. Chitra Ramaswamy traces its journey, all the while enjoying some scenic spots along the way…

Talakaveri
Talakaveri

The sky blushes a monochrome in blue tending to grey-black, with clouds that promise rain. Driving through the winding roads of Kodagu flanked by lush coffee estates and fields of spices, we bring our vehicle to a halt at Talakaveri, the birthplace of the sacred River Kaveri. We are as much awestruck by our surrounds as by the legends associated with the waterbody.

A river’s journey

Kaveri, the sacred, easterly-flowing river of peninsular India, commonly referred to as Dakshina Ganga, was born here in the Brahmagiri ranges of the Western Ghats, at an elevation of 1,341 m. However, Kaveri is not visible as a river at Brahmagiri. Rather, she originated as a gurgling spring that to date feeds a tank built on the hillside by the Kodavas of Kodugu. We witness devotees fill pots and bottles with the holy water from the tank, while others take a dip in it. Kaveri miraculously bubbles up every year at an auspicious moment in rebirth, on Tula Sankaramana day, which falls between October and November. Pilgrims in hundreds of thousands flock here to cleanse themselves during this time.

A temple to Goddess Kaveri, that is also dedicated to Shiva as Agasthyeswara, and Ganesha, overlooks the tank and attracts devotees in droves throughout the year. Talakaveri’s importance as a place of veneration gained greater importance since it is believed that Sage Agasthya was blessed here by Brahma, Vishnu and Ganesha as he sat meditating under the ashwaththa tree. Legend also has it that the saptarishis or the seven great sages who are extolled by the Vedas performed their yajna or ritual sacrifices at Brahmagiri Peak.

After offering prayers at the tank shrines, we ascend a flight of steps leading up to the summit of the mist-kissed Brahmagiri Hill, which offers stunning glimpses of the valley below. It is from here that the shimmering body of blue gleefully begins her downward journey, only to disappear underground. However, Kaveri resurfaces in a steep tumble at Bhagamandala, located at the foothills of Talakaveri where she swells with pride as she unites with River Kannike, and Sujyoti, a mythical river. The trio of rivers forms the much venerated ‘Triveni Sangam’. A dip at this confluence is believed to purge one from all evil and negative influences. Believers proceed to Talakaveri after taking a dip at the sangam and performing rituals for their ancestors.

The entrance to Bhagamandala Temple
The entrance to Bhagamandala Temple

Our next halt then is Bhagamandala or Bhagandeshwara Kshetra which derives its name from the Bhagandeshwara Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Though the temple complex was built by the Cholas around the 11th century, it displays Kerala-style temple architecture with copper roofs that curve up at each corner, into rearing and hooded cobras. Shrines to Vishnu, Ganesha and Subramanya with rimmed brass doors dot the courtyard. Painted sculptures of the pantheon of Hindu deities, flora, fauna and men in battle adorn the ceilings.

An inscription in its premises refers to Bhagamandala as having been captured by Tipu Sultan in the 1780s. He renamed it as Afesalabad, and as a tribute to himself for the feat he had accomplished, Tipu placed the ‘Salam Kallu’, a stone on the way to Talakaveri. The stone bears testimony to the brutal bloodbaths that he caused. However, in 1790, in a fiercely fought battle, Dodda Veera Rajendra, the most famous of the Haleri rulers of Coorg, regained the territory. Further, he donated the stupika stupika and golden pinnacle of the temple’s cone-shaped shikhara.

Our Bhagamandala trip takes us to Karnataka’s only museum that exhibits objects related to bee-keeping. Bhagamandala is also home to Madhuvana, a bee-rearing and honey marketing centre.

Stuff of legends

A host of legends, most of which have their origins in the Puranas, are associated with Kaveri that has inspired several civilisations that have flourished on its banks. She is inextricably linked with Sage Agasthya, King Kavera and Lopamudra, a trio of puranic icons. The most popular tale associated with the river is that Lord Brahma sent his daughter Vishnumaya to earth as Lopamudra. He had twin objectives in doing so. One, to assist Lord Vishnu as the damsel Mohini, in his ploy to vanquish a demon. Secondly, to allow his daughter to fulfil her keen desire to serve humanity on earth. Brahma gave Lopamudra in adoption to King Kavera who meditated upon him to beget progeny.Pleased with the king’s worship, Brahma gave Lopamudra in adoption to him. As the king’s daughter, she was rechristened Kaveri, and she grew up to be a gorgeous maiden.

Sage Agasthya, who was meditating on Brahmagiri Hill, was entranced by the young Kaveri’s enchanting looks. He sought her hand in marriage. Kaveri accepted him, upon the condition that she would leave him for good if he left her alone for long, at any point in time. As fate would have it, Agasthya once became engrossed in a philosophical discussion and forgot his deal with Kaveri. She immediately left him, transfigured herself into a river, and began to flow in order to fulfil her own desire to serve mankind.

According to another popular myth, Sage Agasthya, by his yogic powers, turned Kaveri to water which he filled in his kamandalu or water pot, and kept it in his ashram. But on one occasion, when he entrusted the pot to his disciples and returned late from a debate, Kaveri used her divine powers to jump out of the kamandalu and emerge as a river to serve humanity. A variant of this version claims Lord Ganesha as having taken the form of a crow and toppling the water from the kamandalu.

Nalaknad Palace
Nalaknad Palace

Having feasted our senses on the picturesque Talakaveri and Bhagamandala, we then explored the neighbourhood within a radius of 70 km. Igguthappa Temple, 26 km away, is one of them. After paying our obeisance to Igguthappa, the chief preceptor of the Kodavas, their god of rain and crops, we delight in the verdure surrounding Chelavara Falls, a natural waterfall formed by a tributary of the Kaveri, and Nalaknad Palace which is located at the foot of Tadiandamol, Kodagu’s highest peak. The edifice was built in 1792 by Dodda Veera Rajendra to celebrate his victory against Tipu. It is adorned with exquisite wall murals in various states of preservation. The twin-storeyed palace with a simple exterior has intricate wooden carvings, low conical roof, crested dome and pillared facade.

About 70 km from Bhagamandala, we visit the serene and breathtaking Nisargadhama, a 64-acre island surrounded by River Kaveri. A scenic spot accessed by a hanging bridge across the river, it is ensconced by foliaceous teak and sandalwood trees and bamboo groves. Uma Maheshwara Kshetra and Harangi Dam are our final halting spots on this explorative sojourn of Kodava land. Our hearts and minds fill with a sense of pride at belonging to the land of this holy river. In her 800-km-long long thrilling odyssey, Kaveri traipses amid varying landscapes of Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu, bounding over boulders, crisscrossing through clusters of expansive palm and paddy fields. She displays several shades of her whimsical nature on this jaunt — a young bride, serene and shy at once, a capricious and tempestuous prankster the next. The mirthful lass creates little and large waterways en route, joins forces with lesser streams, until she takes a final bow and loses herself in the fathomless depths of the Bay of Bengal.

source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> Supplements> Travel / by Chitra Ramasamy / February 09th, 2019

SKDRDP gives help to natural calamity victims

Dharmasthala Dharmadhikari D Veerendra Heggade hands over a cheque to a victim of natural calamity, as a part of the assistance programme under SKDRDP, in Madikeri on Thursday.
Dharmasthala Dharmadhikari D Veerendra Heggade hands over a cheque to a victim of natural calamity, as a part of the assistance programme under SKDRDP, in Madikeri on Thursday.

Dharmasthala Dharmadhikari D Veerendra Heggade launched a programme to assist flood victims through Sri Kshetra Dharmasthala Rural Development Project (SKDRDP) in Madikeri on Thursday.

He handed over cheques to those affected by the recent floods and natural calamities to assist the flood victims in rebuilding their lives.

Heggade urged the government to construct houses for the needy and to rebuild the infrastructure in Madikeri which was destroyed by flash floods and landslides.

“Loans up to Rs 450 crore have been released to Kodagu through IDBI bank. Monthly interest on the loans during the months when flood victims were rendered homeless and jobless was paid by the SKDRDP. There is a need to waive the interest during this period and bank officials should think and act in this regard,” stressed Heggade.

He said SKDRDP will encourage flood-affected women to become self-employed by providing training in the making of handicraft items and processed food among other measures.

SKDRDP executive director L H Manjunath said that every homeless and landless family will receive financial assistance of a maximum of Rs 65,000. The amount will be transferred to the bank accounts of 2,106 families within a week. A total amount of Rs 8 crore had been set aside. An amount of Rs 2 crore was also contributed to the Chief Minister’s Relief Fund, he added.

Veerendra Heggade visited the six flood-affected villages and listened to the woes of residents.

source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> State> Mangaluru / by Adithya K A / DH News Service, Madikeri / January 10th, 2019

Kambeyanda C. Biddappa Is Coorg Wildlife Society President

Madikeri:

New office-bearers have been elected for Coorg Wildlife Society.
KambeyandaKF30dec2018

Kambeyanda C. Biddappa has been elected as President, Ketolira A. Chengappa as Vice-President, Apparanda A. Cariappa as Secretary, Chendanda S. Poovaiah as Treasurer, Chendanda P. Aiyappa has been elected as Joint Secretary. Prof. Kambeyanda C. Belliappa, Iychettira M. Machaiah, Chendanda P. Jeffrey Muthanna, Bollera B. Chengappa, K.N. Madappa, B.A. Poonacha and C.K. Poovaiah have been elected as Executive Committee members.

source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> News / December 22nd, 2018

Mercury dips to 10 degree Celsius in Madikeri

Children light a bonfire to beat the cold weather on Race Course Road in Madikeri on Thursday. DH Photo / Rangaswamy
Children light a bonfire to beat the cold weather on Race Course Road in Madikeri on Thursday. DH Photo / Rangaswamy

Chilling cold air blowing across Kodagu district pushed temperatures way down to 10 degree Celsius in Madikeri on Thursday.

The cloudy weather experienced in the past three days ended up increasing the chill factor and sent daytime temperature down to 10-degree Celsius.

With the temperature falling so low, Kodagu is freezing at dawn and dusk. Residents are protecting themselves from the biting cold by lighting up fires in the hearth and wearing warm woollen clothing.

Elderly people preferred to stay indoors. Due to the harsh weather, the Raja Seat now witnesses a thin attendance of people on morning walks.

The number of tourists visiting Madikeri during the winter season also dipped. Tourist agencies have attributed the fall in the number of tourists to fear of natural calamities.

There is no respite from the frosty weather for those residing in the hilly ranges of Mandalpatti, Tadiyandamol, Talacauvery and Brahmagiri.

Indresh, a senior citizen recollected that harsher weather was experienced a decade ago in the district.

“The cold weather was coupled with mist which remained for the most part of the day,’ he recounted.

source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> State> Districts / by Adithya K A / DH News Service / Madikeri – December 20th, 2018

Drop habitation from the purview of ESA, says Bopaiah

Legislators at a meeting on the implementation of the Kasturirangan report recommendations on the conservation of the Western Ghats.
Legislators at a meeting on the implementation of the Kasturirangan report recommendations on the conservation of the Western Ghats.

MLA K G Bopaiah said that habitation area should be dropped from the purview of the ecologically sensitive area (ESA) while implementing the recommendations of the Kasturirangan panel on the conservation of the Western Ghats.

There is time till December 2 to file objections to the draft notification issued by the Ministry of Forest and Environment on the implementation of Kasturirangan recommendations, he added.

Speaking at a meeting organised to discuss on Kasturirangan report on Monday, he said the first draft notification on the recommendations was issued in 2014. The fourth draft notification was issued in the month of October.

Following a stiff opposition from the people living in the Western Ghats area, the Green bench had ordered to collect public opinion in the matter. The people from Kodagu should file objections to the report to ensure that the recommendations are not implemented, he added.

He said that the recommendations are harmful to the farmers as well. If more number of objections are submitted, it will benefit the people of Kodagu district, he said.

He appealed to the gram panchayats, taluk panchayats and zilla panchayats to file objections based on the resolution passed against the implementation of recommendations of Kasturirangan report.

Varadi Anushtana Virodhi Samithi office bearer Nanda Subbaiah said, “The Kerala government had made an on-the-spot verification of the villages falling within the ecologically sensitive areas (ESA) and kept agricultural land, plantations, and habitations out of the purview of the ESA.”

MLA M P Appachu Ranjan, MLC Sunil Subramani and others were present in the meeting.

source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> States> Districts / by Adithya KA, DH News Service / November 26th, 2018

Mysuru Kodava Samaja, Kodagu Gowda Samaja To Celebrate Huthri Fest Tomorrow

HuthuriKF23nov2018

Mysuru:

Kodava Samaja, Mysuru, will be celebrating Huthri, the harvest festival of Kodagu, tomorrow (Nov.23) at Sree Cauvery College Grounds in Kuvempunagar from 5.30 pm onwards.

On the occasion, traditional Kodava dances will be presented. ‘Nere kattuva’ ritual will be held at 7.30 pm; reaping new paddy crop (Kadiru) at 8.30 pm; distribution of thambutt prasada at 9.30 pm.

As in the previous years, Puthari Eedu was held from Nov.18 daily at 6 pm at the Samaja premises in Vijayanagar where traditional Kodava dances are practiced. The Eedu programme, sponsored by various Kodava Sanghas, will be held this evening also.

While Ketolira Ravi Belliappa trains the young and old male dancers in Bolkaat, Kolaat, Kathiyaat and Pareyakali, Kullachanda Vinutha Kesari imparts training to girls in Ummathaat.

Thanks to Kodava Samaja, Mysuru, for strengthening the community bonding and preserving the Kodava culture and tradition by holding such events and encouraging the youngsters.

The main event in traditional Kodava attires will be held during Huthri celebrations tomorrow evening at Cauvery Institutions premises.

Gowda Samaja

Huthri festival will also be celebrated under the auspices of Kodagu Gowda Samaja, Mysuru, at its premises in Vijayanagar 2nd Stage here tomorrow from 7 pm onwards. ‘Nere kattuva’ ritual will be held at 7.45 pm; reaping of new paddy crop (Kadiru) at 8.45 pm. There will be distribution of Kadiru also, according to a press release from Samaja Hon. Secretary K.S. Ganapathy.

source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> News / November 22nd, 2018

After rains, floods and landslips, Kodagu picks up the pieces

Apolimanthera and Dominic, in front of their house at Hattihole, Kodagu.
Apolimanthera and Dominic, in front of their house at Hattihole, Kodagu.

The landscape bears the wounds of the devastating deluge; families, worried about the future, are wary of returning home.

A river, brown with muddy water, flows its usual course on a sunny afternoon, deceptive of the ravage it had caused two months ago when heavy rains and floods devastated Kodagu. On one side of the river’s bank sit two houses – both with different stories of the same tragedy.

One bears large cracks on the walls. Dominic, 63, and his wife Apolimanthera, 59, had to flee from their home in Hattihole, Kodagu district, for a week, after the water level rose on August 17, inundating their home that is below road level. “The water was up to our waist on the road, and we were asked to rush out. We stayed at the relief centre set up in the church for around a week and returned to the devastation after the levels receded,” Mr. Dominic said.

Pointing to a large tree that was swept away by the force of water, which now stands as testimony to the extent of the disaster in the middle of the river, visible from their backyard, he lamented that the river water was now unfit to be used for anything.

Next door, within the same compound is the house of Francis Montheiro, 47, now locked up. A social worker, Mr. Montheiro, known as Appu, was an active volunteer during the floods too. Mr. Dominic last saw him on the morning of August 17, after which he went missing. His body was found in the river nine days later.

Mr. Montheiro’s wife Flaviya Jyothi, 44, a nurse at a private hospital in Madikeri, and two children have shifted to the capital. “My husband used to pick up and drop me halfway. But now, with my shift timings, I decided to shift to Madikeri to make travel easier,” she said. Their sons are in Class 10. Mr. Monteiro was engaged in small businesses dealing with pepper and coffee and drove a taxi.

The house they have left behind, Ms. Jyothi said, is the only asset the family has. “We received ₹5 lakh in compensation. But how do you make up for the loss of a person? Appu is now only a name in our memories,” she added.

Francis D’Souza runs a small hotel on the main road that leads to Hattihole. Having lost his house in the flood, he now lives in a house on rent. “Not just our house, when we left for the relief centre, someone stole what was left in the house and the hotel – jewellery, homemade wine, and bottles of honey (which he sells) and sacks of pepper,” he said.

Three months after the floods, signs of devastation are still everywhere. In Thantipala, the van of a local resident lies almost fully buried in sand left behind by flood water. Mounds of flood residue comprising mud and broken trees line up either side of the road paved out.

In Udaygiri, the remains of the sole house that survived a massive landslip hinges on the edge, as locals continue to stream in, standing cautiously on the other side and trying to remember the road that once led straight to that house. Raghavendra Shetty, a school teacher, said one person had died here, and at least five houses had turned into rubble.

Normalcy is still a far cry for these families.

Says Ms. Apolimanthera, with large coffee estates being wiped out, work as an estate worker was hard to come by. “I used to earn around ₹1,800 a week. Now I am lucky if I find enough work to pay me ₹300 a day. In our 50 years here, we have never been faced with anything like this,” she said.

Apart from dealing with coming to terms with the present, many are worried about the future.

Charan Panthale drives down to his field in Devasthur, where his house stands half destroyed. A large tree trunk, brought in by the gush of water that crashed into his house, still stands. Sacks of husk lie outside the house on a bed of mud that was the land it was harvested in.

“We have lost one and a half acres. There is nothing we can do about it at present. It will take a long time,” he said. The family is temporarily living with relatives.

840 beneficiaries in the first phase

The Kodagu district administration has identified 840 beneficiaries who will be given houses in the first phase. The government will approve one of the five model houses being built by different agencies and companies.

Sreevidya P.I., Deputy Commissioner, Kodagu, told The Hindu that the report had been submitted to the government and awaited approval. The beneficiaries were chosen based on applications and cross verification with agencies such as the gram panchayats.

“There are five houses and three have been completed. The Chief Minister has also seen these. New technology has been tried out in these. We will see which of these is suitable for the hilly terrain and landslips and accordingly, one model will be selected,” she said.

The DC also said that some people had expressed willingness to build houses on their own, for which the government would provide some compensation, and they too could utilise the technology implemented in the model houses. The unit cost is yet to be decided, she said.

As for crop losses, a hectare-wise compensation based on the type of plantation – coffee, paddy, pepper, etc –would be initiated , Ms. Sreevidya said, adding that NDRF guidelines were followed for the surveys, and with Union government funds involved, they would have to wait for government approval.

(This is the first of a two-part series.)

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> News> States> Karnataka / by K.C. Deepika / November 17th, 2018

Yuva Sambhrama Day-7 Focuses On Water Conservation, Save Kodagu, Swachh Bharat

YuvaKF31oct2018

Mysuru:

The seventh day of Dasara Yuva Sambhrama held at the Open Air Theatre in Manasagangothri here last evening saw the participating students sending out messages on Water Conservation, Save Kodagu and Swachh Bharat through their songs and dance.

While the students of Government Arts, Commerce and PG College, Hassan, gave a message on conservation of environment and water, the students of Virajpet First Grade College presented a dance drama for the song ‘Janana-Janana Yarado Papa, Marana-Marana Yarado Shaapa.’ The students later highlighted the devastation caused by floods and landslides in Kodagu and gave messages on the importance of forest conservation.

The students of Jnanadeepa First Grade College danced to the song ‘Mysuru Dasara Yeshtondu Sundara’ which received appreciation from the audience. JSS Women’s College students of Chamarajanagar, all dressed in green, walked up on the stage and highlighted the importance of conserving, protecting and planting trees besides sending out messages on conservation of forests.

ForestDanceKFF31oct2018

Messages such as women empowerment by students of Devaraja Girls Government PU College, Indira Gandhi Government FGC, Sagar, on Kannada and Culture, Madikeri’s Field Marshal K.M. Cariappa College students on Freedom Struggle and Mangaluru’s Dr. P. Dayananda Pai-Dr. P. Satish Pai FGC students sent out a message on Swachh Bharat through their dance.

source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> News / October 07th, 2018

From forest to plate in Coorg

Foraging has long been a way of life for wild-food loving Coorg

Coffee-picking at an estate in Coorg. Photo: iStock
Coffee-picking at an estate in Coorg. Photo: iStock

René Redzepi, the foraging genius who stormed the culinary world with his New Nordic cuisine, would have a lot to smile about in Coorg. Here foraged ingredients don’t just put in an occasional appearance but are the main attraction, making Coorg an interesting region for true-blue wild-food pioneers. The eastern declivities of the Western Ghats that make up Coorg are extensively clothed in forests. Shade-grown coffee plantations offer the ideal habitat for rare flora and fauna to thrive as do sacred groves or devakads, designated as protected forests under the Indian Forest Act.

Against this backdrop is a staggering bounty of indigenous greens, weeds, flowers, fruits, berries, nuts, mushrooms and shoots, many of which play a starring role in the local cuisine.

Gazetteer Of Coorg, first published in 1870, devotes reams to Coorg’s jungle bounty: wild pepper, wild ginger, wild cloves, bitter local oranges known as kaipuli, rose apples, jungle mangoes, bastard sago—esteemed for its toddy—hog plums, several kinds of bamboo shoots, and an alphabetical list of over 60 ferns.

Locals keep their eyes open to what’s growing around them, constantly sizing up culinary possibilities. Freshly plucked cape gooseberries go into jams, a tangle of greens are added to stir-fries, and fronds of tender bracken ferns get pickled and ground into chutneys.

Kaveri Ponnapa, author of The Vanishing Kodavas, says in one of her earlier articles on Coorg: “Most women of my mother-in- law’s generation who lived on coffee plantations never set out on a stroll without the equivalent of the Russian avoska, the ‘maybe’ or ‘perhaps’ mesh bag—you never knew what surprise the season would throw your way.”

Several ingredients are unique to these parts. Like kachampuli, the dark vinegar made from the concentrated juice of the garcinia gummi-gutta fruit (called panapuli locally), which adds a sour kick to pork and fish dishes. And the famous Coorg honey, made from wild roses and forest blooms, which locals drizzle on akki ottis or rice rotis, and eat with ghee for breakfast.

Naveen Alvares, executive chef at Evolve Back Chikkana Halli estate, attributes this love of indigenous ingredients to Coorg’s unique geography and culture. “Kodavas, who make up most of the population, are ancestor worshippers and eat what is available off the land. Most have a plantation background or a sacred forest, so the connect with the land is very strong,” he says.

Walking through the resort’s lush plantations, among the oldest in Coorg, I see the coffee-forest symbiosis in full bloom. Coffee bushes sit beneath a canopy of silver oak trees that support festoons of black pepper. Ginger and turmeric, planted for intercropping, dot the forest floor. Jackfruits hang from trees. You can hear red-whiskered bulbuls chirruping.

Several exotic edibles are to be seen, many of them unconventional in the Indian context. As I stop to admire the bizarre artistry of a passionflower, Alvares smiles, “This is what makes Coorg special. It’s wildness.”

Dinner is a knockout pandi curry. The dark colour and complexity of this most iconic of Coorg pork dishes derives from dark roasted spices and kachampuli, a souring agent Alvares clearly loves.

I drive down from Siddapur to Madikeri the next day. The hour-long journey is jawdroppingly scenic. Acre after acre of coffee plantation presents itself, occasionally punctuated by the whoosh of a waterfall or the brilliant blue of a kingfisher.

A treasure trove of mushroom diversity, the Western Ghats are home to 750 species. Edible fungi known as kummu grow wild on Coorg’s hills and are highly prized for their exotic flavour. Vancouver-based blogger Shalini Nanda Nagappa mentions several varieties in her blog, A Cookery Year In Coorg—“feathery, delicate nucchi kummu and kokkalé kummu, succulent aal kummu, the giant nethalé kummu,..and the decidedly meaty pandi kummu.”

Only locals who carry with them an intimate knowledge of when, where and how to harvest the edible varieties can procure them, Nagappa points out. As a result, these treasures rarely make it to local markets and remain confined to the kitchens of plantation owners and local villagers.

'Pandi curry' at the Evovle Back resort.
‘Pandi curry’ at the Evovle Back resort.

The pleasures of kummu elude me during this visit, but I do feast on other Kodagu treats at Coorg Cuisine, a popular local restaurant in Madikeri. My lunch companion is M.B. Kumar, a Madikeri-based Kodava agriculturist and plantation owner. The wild mango curry, made with small jungle mangoes or kaad maange and black jaggery, is by turns sweet, sour and peppery. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever tasted. Chewing on a mango kernel, it is love at first bite.

The smoked pork, known as chillkana pandi, packs a meaty savouriness, while the freshness of the forest pervades a bowl of lightly fermented and sauteed baimbale or bamboo shoots. There’s pandi curry, of course, intensely flavoured and addictive as always. And akki ottis and kadumbuttus (rice balls) to mop it all up with.

To put pork’s near sacred place in Coorg’s cuisine in context, Kumar narrates a colourful legend. When Parvati expressed a desire to see Arjuna’s back (the great warrior never showed his back—a sign of weakness—during war), Shiva disguised himself as a hunter and shot a wild boar that Arjuna’s arrow had pierced. An altercation followed. As Arjuna fell over his opponent, his back was revealed, granting Parvati’s wish. A shower of flowers fell from the heavens and the pork was distributed as prasad to the hunting party.

The yarn illustrates the extent to which Coorg’s geographical seclusion has shaped its unique cuisine. “While we Coorgs (Kodavas) treat pork as prasad and offer it to our ancestors during rituals, it would be considered blasphemous to go anywhere near pork in neighbouring Mysuru,” Kumar laughs.

As we eat, Kumar draws my attention to the age-old tradition of foraging for monsoon greens, known as thoppus in Coorg’s interiors. The repertoire of seasonal weeds is dazzling. Thatte thoppu has a slightly bitter taste but tastes delicious with akki ottis and a little ghee; kakke thoppu with its purplish-black fruit is effective in deworming; therme thoppu or bracken ferns taste good simply sautéed with onions and pair divinely with eggs.

During mid-monsoon, on the 18th day of a period known as kakkada, Kodavas pick the leaves of a wild plant called madd thoppu and extract its juice to make a payasam.

The bustling Friday market in Madikeri is chock-full of these supergreens and more. Kembe (colocasia leaves) and kaipuli are up for grabs as are spices and meat. Walking around, it becomes abundantly clear that Kodavas are not just master harvesters, they’re also skilled at altering foodstuffs for preservation by yeast and bacteria. A huge assortment of jams and pickles made from the spoils of the land lines the local stores. Everything is home-made and unbranded.

On my last morning in Coorg, I drop in at Coorg’s Progressive Beekeepers Co-op Society store and pick up a bottle of wild honey to take back home. As I make my way to Bengaluru to catch my flight, the resinous, sour-sweet taste of kaad maange lingers on my tongue.

Wild foods, which grow in their natural habitat without fertilizers or pesticides, don’t deplete the earth’s resources. And they taste incredible. What if we, like Kodavas, thought of the forest as our pantry? Let’s tap into our vast underutilized permacultures and support the foragers who gather these ingredients. Let’s showcase our native treasures at the finest restaurants through dishes that startle with their newness and intensity.

Let’s go wild.

source: http://www.livemint.com / Live Mint / Home> Leisure / by Sona Bahadur / October 21st, 2018