Category Archives: World Opinion

Civet Coffee From Coorg: Rich Man’s Dream Coffee !

CivetCoffeeKF05feb2019

I had heard of people taking their pet dogs for walk in the parks, roads or footpaths for exercise. Also to prevent the animal from committing nuisance, easing itself, at the owner’s house with eyeful of its poop. I also see these dog-walkers daily in my area walking back with a wry smile once the dog does with its pooping, squatting on its hind legs. The poop would lie as a heap on the lawn of the park, walk-way or on the footpath for the unwary morning walkers like me to stamp on, grimace, curse the owners of the dog and move on…

It was in 1992 at the famous Central Park, New York, I was amused to see people armed with a bag and a scoop walk around with their dogs. It was around noon and I was surprised. I made a gentle enquiry with my friend M.P. Prabhakaran, a local resident. In his typical and critical way he said, “Americans are a different species and they often do things differently. You would not be surprised if you find them here at midnight with their pets, the dog, the bag to collect the poop and the scoop. By the way, did you find anywhere in the park any poop fresh or dried ? No. That’s America…”

Before he could denigrate India I interrupted, “That’s why you left India. But where is your dog?” I guffawed.

If the pet-dog’s poop is to be despised and discarded, there is another animal’s poop that is sought after specially in places where coffee plantations are found. My friend N. Raghavan of the pharmacy Raghulal & Co., who keeps sending medicines for my family regularly, last night sent me a packet with an amusing note, “For your use only.” With apologies to James Bond, ‘For your eyes only.’ It was not medicine. Rather a surprise packet. It was Wild Civet Coffee. Wonder, why the word ‘wild’? After all, civet cats are wild. Never domesticated. Let it be.

I have been reading about this super-special civet coffee quite for a few years now though not seen or tasted. Now thanks to Raghavan. Since a few years I have been looking for this animal or its shit with coffee seeds submerged in it in my own plantation at Kutta, Kodagu, without luck. This animal looks like a cat with a long fluffy tail (see pic.) and is both carnivorous and herbivorous found in Central Africa, Indonesia and also in other parts of the world and in Karnataka. In the coffee season they eat ripened coffee fruits (cherry or berries) and poop out the seeds that don’t digest. Civet coffee is the coffee seeds that civet cats excrete after consuming the fleshy berries. An enzyme present in the nocturnal animal’s gut and also in the anal glands produces a strong musky perfume.

Raghavan tells me that a Kodagu planter, Thamoo Poovaiah, is producing this Civet Coffee and marketing it through his partnership firm Coorg Consolidated Commodities (CCC).

There seems to be two issues being discussed about this unique coffee. One, its cost. As much as Rs. 25,000 per kg in foreign market. Real crazy. While it is Rs. 900 for 100 gms of Civet Coffee, it is Rs. 30 for 100 gms of regular coffee available in the market.

Two, cruelty to the animal. It seems civet cats are caught and caged so that they could be fed with coffee berries and collect the poops in plenty. The second allegation is being rubbished by Poovaiah as not true. Of course, NOT in Kodagu. It is obvious more the population of these civet cats, the more Civet Coffee for people like Poovaiah.

Many years ago, I had been to William Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon in England and took a walk along the road in front of Shakespeare’s house. I was surprised to find many shops selling coffee seeds — raw and roasted — and, of course, powder. Each variety was branded, like ‘Mountain Grown Colombian Coffee’, ‘Kenya Special Coffee’, Vietnam etc. But I could not find India’s name anywhere.

In 1950s and 1960s I used to see a display publicity board kept in Coffee Houses at Bengaluru. The board had the image of an old man in typical North-Indian attire with a Hindu religious mark on the forehead and a long white beard along with a steaming hot cup of coffee. The text simply read: “Both are Indian.” Gone are those days of coffee and the way it was promoted…

Thamoo Poovaiah
Thamoo Poovaiah

Now we have Civet Coffee. Good luck to Thamoo Poovaiah and dear Raghu. Enjoy this non-vegetarian coffee with the strong musky perfume hitting your nostrils !!

source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> Columns> Abracadabra / by K.B. Ganapathy / February 04th, 2019 /
Em: kbg@starofmysore.com

Starbucks Showcases Coffee Craft and Innovation With ‘Starbucks Barista Pride’

Mumbai :

Starbucks is taking beverage innovation to new heights with the simultaneous launch of 134 new, crafted beverages. Delivering on the iconic ‘Third Place’ experience, while strengthening commitment to innovation and coffee passion, the global coffee chain has introduced a new initiative called Starbucks Barista Pride where baristas from each Starbucks store will feature a beverage unique to their store, conceptualized and created by themselves.

Till the end of February, all Starbucks stores across India will serve a specially curated beverage, enabling customers to ‘coffee hop’ and try 134 unique beverages across the 134 Starbucks stores in India.

Based on the idea of customization and personalization, while celebrating the heart and soul of the signature Starbucks Experience, Starbucks Barista Pride is here to showcase the talent and innovation the Starbucks baristas have to offer.

The wide range of unique beverages includes Turkish Espresso Praline available at the Chapel Road store in Mumbai, Chai White Chocolate Mocha available at the Vega Mall store in Bangalore and Winter Chocolate Cream available at the DLF Hub store in Delhi.

“Starbucks is committed to delivering an unparalleled, unique experience for every customer. We are delighted to introduce ‘Starbucks Barista Pride’- a new coffee forward initiative which highlights the exemplary coffee skills of our Starbucks baristas and brings to our customers a wide range of artisanal beverages. At Starbucks, we believe in celebrating each customer’s individual coffee preference and profile. For us each cup of coffee is unique and especially suited to the coffee palette of our customer. With a deep understanding of coffee, our Starbucks baristas personalize each cup to perfection,” said Ms. VeetikaDeoras, head – marketing, category, digital and loyalty at Tata Starbucks Pvt. Ltd. “We are humbled to lead specialty coffee in India and initiatives like Starbucks Barista Pride are a tribute to our customers and reflect the Starbucks 47-year legacy of sourcing, roasting and serving world’s top Arabica coffee.”

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(Eds: Disclaimer: The following press release comes to you under an arrangement with Business Wire India. PTI takes no editorial responsibility for the same.)
134 Starbucks stores serve 134 unique beverages – offering customers 134 ways to celebrate handcrafted coffee

Mumbai, Maharashtra, India – Business Wire India
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source: http://www.theweek.in / The Week / Home> Live Updates> Business / by PTI / Mumbai – Business Wire India / January 22nd, 2019

Field Marshal KM Cariappa, so much more than just the first Indian Army chief

Field Marshal KM Cariappa | Indian Defence Research Wing
Field Marshal KM Cariappa | Indian Defence Research Wing

Field Marshal K.M. Cariappa was instrumental in keeping the Indian Army away from politics and attempted to forge an all-inclusive army.

New Delhi:
Popular discourse on Field Marshal Kodandera Madappa Cariappa is often limited to placing him as the first ‘Indian’ commander-in-chief of the Indian Army who took over from Roy Butcher on 15 January, 1949, and the second person to have been conferred the rank of Field Marshal in 1986 after former Army chief Sam Manekshaw.

There are, however, countless other factors that make him a towering figure in the history of Indian military, all of which is still relevant and important on his 120th birth anniversary, which falls today, 28 January.

Field Marshal Cariappa was not only instrumental in drawing a strong dividing line between the Indian Army and politics but he also helped shape the Army into a highly professional force in its formative stage.

He attempted to do away with caste, creed and other barriers in the Indian Army by raising the Brigade of The Guards — a mechanised infantry regiment of the Indian Army — in 1949. Recruitment to it was open to all regions, castes, creeds and all sections of society.

Military historian and national security analyst Mandeep Singh Bajwa says that such was his stature, that Field Marshal Cariappa interacted directly with then Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, not allowing anyone in the bureaucracy or others in the corridors of power to take liberties with him.

“But the crucial fact is that he kept the Indian Army away from any kind of political influence, in contrast to the political nature of the Pakistani Army,” Bajwa told ThePrint. “When Ayub Khan was appointed the commander in chief of the Pakistan Army in 1951, the Pakistan Army clearly had a role in shaping the foreign and domestic policies of the state.”

The military coup that followed in 1958 only testified to the political nature of the Pakistan Army.

“He wanted the Indian Army to be an apolitical entity and that’s the reason he decided against inducting former INA personnel into the Army as they had become political soldiers,” Bajwa adds.

A distinguished career and a run-in with a junior
Field Marshal Cariappa had a distinguished career as the Army chief but before that he led Indian forces on the Western Front during the India-Pakistan War of 1947.

He was instrumental in recapturing Zojila, Drass and Kargil and created a linkup with Leh before the then Indian government decided to abide by an UN-brokered ceasefire on 1 January, 1949.

An illustrative anecdote about his character relates to the 1965 Indo-Pak war. Field Marshal Ayub Khan had served under Cariappa in the British Indian Army. In 1965, Cariappa’s son, Flt. Lt. K.C. “Nanda” Cariappa, was taken prisoner of war by Pakistan after his aircraft was shot down. Khan had offered to release him, but Cariappa made it clear to Khan that his son was not to be given any special treatment.

Bajwa says that the interest of the nation was always first with Cariappa. “He accepted pay and ration cuts for the forces because he felt that it would help the cause of nation building,” he says.

The officer from Coorg
Cariappa was born in Coorg and was educated at the Central High School at Madikeri and the Presidency College in the then Madras state.

He began his Army career under the British and was among those in the first batch of King’s Commissioned Indian Officers at the Daly Cadet College in Indore.

His remarkable career had several firsts.

He was the first Indian officer to undergo the course at the Staff College, Quetta, in 1933. He also saw action in Iraq, Syria, Iran and Burma and became the first Indian officer to be given command of a unit in 1942.

In 1947, Cariappa became the first Indian to be selected to undergo a training course at Imperial Defence College, Camberley, UK.

He also oversaw the division of the British Indian Army between India and Pakistan during Partition.

He was chosen over General S.M. Shrinagesh and Lt General Nathu Singh Rathore to head the Indian Army.

After retirement, he served as the Indian high commissioner to Australia and New Zealand.

He died in Bengaluru in 1993 at the age of 94.

The current army chief General Bipin Rawat has said that Field Marshal Cariappa deserves the Bharat Ratna, the country’s highest civilian award.

source: http://www.theprint.in / The Print / Home> The Print Profile / by Amrita Nayak Dutta / January 28th, 2019

Hockey match organised to mark 70th Republic Day of India

Indian Ambassador Munu Mahawar presented a number of awards, including a special hockey stick to Naqvi for his contributions to promoting hockey in the Sultanate.
Indian Ambassador Munu Mahawar presented a number of awards, including a special hockey stick to Naqvi for his contributions to promoting hockey in the Sultanate.

Muscat:

India’s 70th Republic celebrations kicked off in Muscat with a hockey festival held at the Sultan Qaboos Sports Complex in Bausher.

S.A.S Naqvi, former technical adviser of the Oman Olympic Committee and organiser of the event, said, “As it will be the 70th Republic Day of India, to commemorate this national event, we held two hockey cups: the Ambassador Cup, in which school teams competed, and the Republic Day of India Cup, where the Oman Veterans Team and expat Team Coorg competed.”

The Chief Guest of the tournament was Indian Ambassador Munu Mahawar, who was joined by Guests of Honour Kiran Asher, Group Managing Director of Al Ansari Group, and Captain Talib Al Wahaibi, Chairman of the Oman Hockey Association.

Team Coorg Muscat claimed victory in the Republic Day Cup, beating the Oman Veterans in a hotly contested match.

Naqvi said, “Team Coorg Muscat won the Republic Day Cup by edging out the Oman Veterans 3-1.” The Ambassador Cup was played in two categories: one for the boys’ teams and one for the girls. The winners of the cup this year were Indian School Al Seeb and Indian School Maabela, who both won their final matches on penalties.

Al Wahaibi said, “It was great and entertaining hockey and I am very grateful to Team Coorg and to the embassy for hosting these events for the youngsters every year. It was great and I really enjoyed it.” According to Naqvi, “The school teams of Al Seeb and Maabela won the Ambassador Cup. Another highlight was the Indian School Wadi Kabir Musical Band, which included 100 boys and girls.”

After the tournament, Mahawar presented a number of awards, including a special hockey stick to Naqvi for his contributions in promoting the game of hockey.

A number of events are being held across Oman in the run-up to Republic Day, culminating in a flag-hoisting event at the Indian Embassy in Muscat.

In an announcement published on Twitter, the embassy said, “Members of the Indian community in Oman are invited to join a flag hoisting ceremony at the embassy premises in celebration of the 70th Republic Day of India. Date & time: 26 January 2019 at 08.30 hrs. Please arrive by 08.15 hrs.”

“Please carry [a] resident card and a copy of the uploaded invitation,” the statement added.

source: http://www.timesofoman.com / Times of Oman / Home / by Times News Service / January 20th, 2019

After Darjeeling tea, can Darjeeling coffee be the next big thing?

Long famous for their teas, the hills of North East and West Bengal are embracing coffee.

Reuters
Reuters

The North East of India, with its rolling hills and verdant plantations, has long been synonymous with tea. Coffee – that dark, moody brew, lightened with milk, and frothed to perfection by rigorous pouring and mixing – largely remained a South Indian phenomenon, with most of the plantations located in Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala. But as the Indian economy opened up, global café chains such as Costa Coffee and Starbucks set up shop and took coffee to various parts of the country. They were followed by entrepreneurs who rode the artisanal wave and introduced Indians to pourovers and Chemex. And now, in the North East too, there is a silent coffee storm brewing, thanks to a handful of cafes, roasters, government-backed guilds and organic farmers, who are betting big on locally-grown coffee.

Beans grown by roasters such as Meghalaya’s Smoky Falls Tribe Coffee, Nagaland’s Été Coffee and Darjeeling Altura (an offshoot of the famous Beatles-inspired hotel Revolver in Darjeeling) are making their way to cafes and restaurants in the region and even being exported to countries like Singapore. Several artisanal coffee shops have mushroomed in towns and cities such as Kohima, Dimapur, Shillong, Gangtok, Darjeeling, Siliguri, Kalimpong, Guwahati, Imphal, Naharlagun, Tawang and Aizawl – all serving up delicious lattes and long blacks, complete with coffee art.

“Our hills are synonymous with tea, [but] we [Indians] know very little about it,” said Prayash Dewan, partner at Darjeeling Altura. “[We drink our] tea adulterated with milk, and the leaves used are mostly CTC [processed using the crush, tear, curl method]. We cannot afford to drink the real Darjeeling tea, nor do we know how to savour it. Coffee is something we can do better with and make it our own, from growing to processing to consumption.”

Photo credit: Darjeeling Altura
Photo credit: Darjeeling Altura

Local factors
In the late 1980s, the Coffee Board of India, the governmental organisation tasked with promotion of coffee in the country, began to develop coffee plantations in the North East, partnering with nodal agencies on the ground. But this was soon discontinued. The agencies became defunct and the board began to implement its coffee development scheme directly by offering subsidies and training to farmers. The main goal was to provide livelihood to tribal communities and detract them from pursuing jhum or swidden cultivation.

According to the latest statistics from the Coffee Board in May 2018, out of an 8,013-hectare planted area in the North East, about 3,000 hectares is yielding area, and the rest is in the pre-yielding stage – coffee cherries take three to four years to grow. The Board’s November 2017 report had placed the total planted area at 7,501 hectares, which indicates that 512 hectares were planted with fresh saplings in the region within a few months – a marker of how rapidly local farmers are embracing coffee cultivation. Only 200 metric tonnes are being produced annually – yield levels are still low because the climate and geography of the Himalayas are not as conducive to large-scale coffee cultivation as in the Western Ghats. Also, farmers in the Himalayas still continue to treat coffee as ancillary income as compared to growing pepper, says Y Raghuramulu, director of research, Coffee Board of India.

Photo credit: Pxhere [Creative Commons CC0]
Photo credit: Pxhere [Creative Commons CC0]

So what has contributed to the growing popularity of coffee growing in the region?

“Regional entrepreneurs have set up roasteries and cafes that promote North East Indian coffee,” said Raghuramulu. “Since the region produces very small quantities for big retail players to make profits, local businesses are key. Earlier, the coffee board would buy the beans from farmers and auction them, bearing the cost of marketing, but now we’re all [for] encouraging local entrepreneurship.”

Another advantage is that coffee from the North East is more or less organic, which appeals to new-age consumers and artisanal roasters alike.

Photo credit: Été Coffee.
Photo credit: Été Coffee.

Stories of autonomy
In a region that depends heavily on the state for employment, most entrepreneurial stories are about becoming independent. “The philosophy of our company is based on one simple truth: every single person should stand on their own,” said Lichan Humtsoe, founder of Été Coffee. “In our state [Nagaland], nearly 95% of the population depends on the government directly or indirectly, which means if you are not part of the system, you are nowhere. And the number of graduates we are churning out every year is staggering.”

Eté consists of a 19-member team that runs a mobile coffee bar, a roastery, and a brick-and-mortar coffee bar. It has so far sold around 20,000 packs of coffee, provided consultancy services and powered up 13 cafes in Nagaland, Manipur, Delhi and Singapore. Quality control is strict – only 100% organic Arabica is used, sourced from six districts in Nagaland. When they started, an online shopping site was launched for pan-India retail. But as local demand superseded the produce, they were compelled to put it on hold.

Eté had humble beginnings. “I am a science graduate with a Master’s degree in social work, and I worked as a professional wedding photographer as well as with the government,” said the 32-year-old Humtsoe. “It was a self-taught venture when we started in 2016, driven by a passion and love for coffee, and the need to offer alternative employment opportunity. And with more growers coming up, and the government vigorously implementing coffee plantation projects in Nagaland, it is likely to influence the economy of the state.”

Photo credit: Été Coffee.
Photo credit: Été Coffee.

The Nagaland government has pledged to set up 50,000 hectares of coffee plantations by 2030. Local farmers are being encouraged to give up the traditional practice of Jhum farming, and embrace shade coffee cultivation instead. The two-year-old Nagaland Coffee, a subsidiary of a South African company with a memorandum of understanding for 30 years with the state, deals directly with coffee growers in rural Nagaland. It exports single origin organic coffee to the Persian Gulf and South Africa, and supplies to its coffee shop in Dimapur.

Most of these businesses are possessed by a conscientious zeal. Été Coffee’s tagline is Justice a Cup, while both Darjeeling Altura and the café and bookstore Nerdvana, also in Darjeeling, are champions of sustainable economy.

“Our philosophy is equity – we’d want to earn our share from our coffee while providing fair and equitable shares for the farmers from whom we purchase the cherries, and the few retailers and cafes that have been patronising Darjeeling Altura,” said Dewan. Été earmarks 10% of its earnings for its Employability of Youth Fund that sponsors local youths who are willing to undergo skills training to become employable.

Photo credit: Nerdvana.
Photo credit: Nerdvana.

Low awareness
One of the more interesting aspects of this trend is that none of the stakeholders held international certifications when they started, and most are driven by a passion for coffee. Darjeeling Altura, for example, started off with a few saplings that yielded good beans. These were processed and roasted in 2014 with a good deal of help from YouTube and a lot of reading.

Ditto for 30-year-old Yugal Sharma, who opened Nerdvana in 2015. “When I started, I didn’t even know how to make a cup of good tea,” said Sharma. “I got a kilo of raw beans from Bijanbari [a small town in Darjeeling], did some research on how it can be roasted in a frying pan, and posted pictures on Instagram. A month later, an entrepreneur came calling, who had just started roasting Darjeeling coffee. And I ended up dedicating a menu to that coffee. Coffee is becoming a niche market, and [Himalayan coffee] will make it special, exclusive and alive.”

The buzz around North Eastern coffee in the country is growing louder because of its unique flavour profile. “The roasting of this coffee is challenging in a good way,” said roast master Mithilesh Vazalwar, who is one of India’s few coffee-quality graders and its first AeroPress champion. “It’s well-rounded, has beautiful acidity and works very well for a smooth flat white or delicate pourover/iced AeroPress. Even cultivation and processing are incredibly methodical in the region. The North East has the potential to become a premier coffee-growing region – [it] just needs more recognition.”

But as with all small businesses, perseverance is key. “Very few people are aware of Darjeeling coffee, though the response has been positive,” said Dewan. “On the other hand, yield is so little that the economies of scale are yet to come into play. Raw costs are very high and most real coffee is sourced from South India at much cheaper rates. So, despite the encouragement, establishments choose to buy the other coffee.”

Photo credit: Été Coffee.
Photo credit: Été Coffee.

source: http://www.scroll.in / Scroll.in / Home> Magazine> Food / by Tania Bhattacharya / January 29th, 2019

Bopanna: ‘I faced Stefan Edberg when he was coaching Roger Federer’

Bopanna-FedererKF30jan2019

In an interview to GQ India the doubles player Rohan Bopanna revealed who has been his biggest idol in life. Bopanna picked the six-time Major winner Stefan Edberg not only for his on-court successes but behaviour as well.

“I had the opportunity to meet him, and he was just as I’d imagined him to be”, confessed Bopanna. “Aisam-ul-Haq Qureshi and I we were playing against Roger Federer and Stanley Wawrinka [in 2014], and Stefan Edberg happened to be coaching Roger Federer.

He happened to be sitting in the box obviously, watching Federer. It was crazy – I couldn’t have imagined playing against some of the best tennis players in the world, and then having your idol watch the match.”

Bopanna also revealed he changed his eating regime in recent times: “I did a food intolerance test in India, which showed that my yeast intolerance was very high. So I’ve completely stopped having bread; it’s been about two years now.

Perhaps before a match, I’ll have fish and white rice, which gives me the energy I need. While playing, I’ll have a banana and you need electrolytes and water of course – especially when it’s hot. Otherwise, I keep things as simple as possible.

Fitness wise, I travel with my trainer, and that’s made a huge difference in terms of stretching at the right time, cooling down – especially as you get older and recovery becomes more important.”

source: http://www.tennisworldusa.org / Tennis World / Home> Tennis News> Roger Federer / by Luigi Gatto / January 28th, 2019

Few flavours of what sustained the British remain in Coorg

In Coorg, regional cuisines bear the imprint of a long-gone era.

A whiff of the raj: Roast lamb.
A whiff of the raj: Roast lamb.

I’m not a fan of Anglo-Indian cooking (nor of the omnipresent curry powder that got dunked into its gloopy, bland sauces). Yet, the diverse ways in which English tastes combined with regional ingredients and cooking styles across India during the Raj continue to fascinate me.

On a recent visit to Coorg, I found myself wondering what it must have been like for the British sahibs and memsahibs as they found themselves amidst the seclusion of its forested hills. Watching the mists drift across the plantations of Siddapur in south Coorg, Karnataka, I tried to imagine how these foreigners recreated a taste of British cities and shires in this isolated station, where estates were often 20 to 30 miles apart.

Gazatteer of Coorg, first published in 1870, notes that following the opening of Mercara Estate in 1854 by one Mr Fowler, the first European planter, dozens of extensive estates sprang up in Coorg within a short time. “Here seemed to have been discovered the Eldorado of honest industry in a delightful climate and home-like country,” it notes.

Yet “home-like country” it wasn’t. As the British initiated the planting of coffee in a big way in Coorg, Hassan and Chikmagalur, they were confronted by brutal heat, unfamiliar customs, frightening wild animals, blood-sucking leeches and a lengthy monsoon that could stretch up to six months.

Bread pudding at the Evolve Back Chikkana Halli Estate in Siddapur.
Bread pudding at the Evolve Back Chikkana Halli Estate in Siddapur.

But the interplay between diverse people, larders and culinary traditions led to the development of a distinct culture on the plantations. A lively snapshot of the time appears in Cathleen Ballantyne’s account of plantation life, Plenty Salaams, first published in 1954. Ballantyne arrived in Coorg during the 1880s for a visit and stayed with her husband George, a planter, for 50 years.

Describing the thrum of daily life, Ballantyne writes, “On a coffee estate, the day began early. At 6.30, one was wakened by the clanging of the estate bell, which summoned coolies to muster-roll before starting their day’s work…Then at 7, out on the verandah, chhota hazri — a substantial meal of porridge, eggs and bacon, coffee and fruit. For the dorai (the master), there came the morning round of the estate. For the wife, the walk, or ride, before engaging in the usual household routine, such as the ordering of meals, the weighing out of all the commodities required for the day, and, by using a lactometer, finding out that the milk had not been watered…”

Celebrations served to break the monotony and hardship of plantation life, and Ballantyne’s droll account is replete with instances of tomfoolery and merry-making during parties and picnics. My favourite is a description of a slapstick food fight at a picnic on the banks of Cauvery, where “rolls, potatoes, curry puffs and other eatables were flung about with great dexterity.” The beloved foods of the foreigners came out during these outings. Ballantyne mentions “lobster salad, chicken in aspic, cold saddle of mutton, curry puffs (pastry enclosing curried mince), an assortment of cold sweets”. Milk punch and whiskey flowed, heightening the attractions of these riotous, unending rounds of feasting.

Evolve Back Chikkana Halli Estate in Siddapur, my perch during this visit, has devoted some time to researching this slice of life. Over a meal of pepper water, mutton-ball curry, delicate coconut rice, and pan-roasted roast chicken, chef Naveen Alvares talked about the months of research that led to the planter’s menu currently served at their restaurant Peppercorn. Disappointed with their initial recces of Anglo-Indian restaurants in Bengaluru, Alvares and his team took the help of late Ranee Vijaya Kuttaiah, the author of the highly regarded Cuisine from Coorg, to master colonial-era planters’ dishes. The roast chicken, for instance, is a simple recipe that requires chicken to be marinated with salt, pepper and vinegar, caramelised with a little sugar and then cooked in its own juices in the pan.

No Anglo-Indians remain in Coorg today. In the absence of first-hand testimonies and experiences, reminiscence and nostalgia play a vital role in forming a clearer picture of life in those times. Vivian Rodrigues, whose family has owned coffee and pepper plantations in Pollibetta in Coorg and Saklespur in Hassan district for over a century, painted a vivid picture of the clubs that sprung up during the 19th century as places for the planters and their wives to relax and socialise. “The bar was the most important fixture in the club and the choicest single malts and gin were stocked. The cuisine was obviously British. Local cooks became butlers and were rechristened with British names that were easy to pronounce. We had an Anthony from Ooty who used to be Arokiaswamy!” he recounts.

Bridget White-Kumar, author of several books on Anglo-Indian cooking, says, “The British and Europeans in Coorg ate largely what they ate back home. Yet, over time, some regional influences came into their cuisine and they began eating rice with a curry made with minimal spices.” Various blends of curry powder were concocted, including Bolst’s hot curry powder, which became an instant rage.

Though locals never quite took to curry powder, they inherited an abiding love for baking from the British, and recipes of cakes dating back to the colonial times continue to be religiously followed in homes, clubs and bakeries. “It’s typical in Coorg to come home to a freshly baked cake in the evening,” says Muthu Bopanna, the owner of coffee plantations and a heritage homestay in Madikeri.

Roasts and barbecues are just as beloved. Vancouver-based blogger Shalini Nagappa cherishes her childhood memory of a Christmas spent feasting on roast turkey at her uncle’s farm near Kushalnagar. “What a moment of high excitement it was! And while it was not the exaggeratedly plump, meltingly tender, cartoon bird of my dreams, my uncle’s penchant for adding ‘more butter’, a la Julia Child made it divine,” she writes in her blog, A Cookery Year in Coorg.

After India gained independence in 1947, British planters sold their estates to Kodavas and other south Indians. The food served on these estates today tends to be a mix of traditional Kodava, Mangalorean, Bunt, Lingayat and Chettiar cuisine — depending on the ownership — and their personal eclectic influences.

Former journalist David Housego, writing about the cooking of the Raj, observed that in contrast to the Portuguese, who left a strong culinary footprint on the cuisine of former colonies like Goa, the British largely ignored the rich regional cuisines of India. As a result, no truly great hybrid dishes came out of this East-West encounter. This is evident in Coorg, where the local cuisine remains largely unaffected by British influence. Yet, one still gets a whiff of the time when the intermingling of British, Irish, European and Indian culinary accents created a unique Anglo-Indian aroma across the coffee estates, planters’ clubs and dak bungalows of Coorg.

This article appeared in print withe headline ‘Curry Puff Days’

source: http://www.indianexpress.com / The Indian Express / Home> Eye / by Sona Bahadur / January 20th, 2019

Rohan Bopanna on his home away from home, the Australian Open and the future of Indian tennis

We caught up with tennis star and coffee connoisseur Rohan Bopanna at his swanky Airbnb pad in Melbourne, who told us why taking a power nap is the best thing to do before a match

RohanBopannaKF30jan2019

Tennis player Rohan Bopanna is in Melbourne to play doubles at the Australian Open, one of his favourite Majors, “because the weather is always incredible at this time of the year; and the hospitality is amazing.” For instance, players have access to an exclusive concierge desk that’ll organise everything from bookings at the hottest restaurants in town; or a seat at the cricket match.

While they’re here, Bopanna and his crew are staying at a stunning four-bedroom penthouse at The Birdcage building in South Yarra, a 20-minute drive away from the iconic Rod Laver arena. When we visit, Bopanna brews us a cup of his master blend for Flying Squirrel, using beans sourced from his Coorg estate. “It’s quite popular on the circuit,” he says. “Some players have already complained that I haven’t replenished their supply from last year.”

It’s clear that Bopanna’s at home here. On the kitchen slab lies a packet of granola by The Muesli Guys, and a test tube of Rooftop Honey. In typically Aussie style, this is a hyper-local project run by urban bee-keepers, who harvest honey from beehives placed on the rooftops of some of Melbourne’s coolest bars and cafes.

The previous day, Bopanna and his doubles partner Divij Sharan lost to Spaniards P. Carreño Busta and G. García-López in an early round at the AO, but he appears to be in good spirits. “It’s still a new partnership, and we’re working to develop our rhythm.” It’s a combination that’s worked in the past, with the duo winning a gold at the Maharashtra Open earlier this month, and at the Asian Games in Indonesia last year. Before he heads out for a practice session, Bopanna chats about why he prefers living in an Airbnb to hotels and the best spots in his South Yarra hood.

This is a great neighbourhood. You have the Chapel Street Bazaar, Prahran market close by – all very indie and cool.

I love walking around, and I love that there are so many great restaurants within walking distance. If I want to go out for a cup of coffee, I’ll go down the road to The Pound Café. In terms of places to eat, I love Mr Miyagi for its Japanese. There is Chapelli’s for Italian, and Oriental Tea House, which has great dumplings. One of my favourite restaurants in the city is Neil Perry’s Spice Temple [at the Crown hotel].

You’ve been using Airbnb’s instead of hotels for a while now. Why?

The space really makes a big difference. When you’re travelling more than 30 weeks in a year, it can get tough to just live out of a room and a bathroom. For some years, I’ve been travelling with my coach and trainer, and it’s nice to be able to travel together and stay together. Tennis can be a lonely sport.

I have friends in Melbourne, and it’s nice to be able to call them over. The other advantage is having your own kitchen, which I use to make a little breakfast etc. I don’t cook a lot, but whenever I do, I can control the oil that goes into the food. This building has a gym, which is something I also look for when I’m looking at Airbnbs.

This feels more like living like a local, than say living in the CBD, which is always so busy. Not a lot of tennis players live here, which I like, because you get a bit of a break. Otherwise, it’s like going to office – tennis is office for me – and then coming back home and seeing the same people.

Who are some of your tennis icons?

Stefan Edberg – for the way he conducted himself off-court too. I had the opportunity to meet him, and he was just as I’d imagined him to be. Aisam-ul-Haq Qureshi and I we were playing against Roger Federer and Stanley Wawrinka [in 2014], and Stefan Edberg happened to be coaching Roger Federer. He happened to be sitting in the box obviously, watching Federer. It was crazy – I couldn’t have imagined playing against some of the best tennis players in the world, and then having your idol watch the match.

How do you get yourself in the zone before a game?

I sometimes take a 10-12 minute power nap before I get in the game, just to relax my body. I visualise the game, and then get into it. Otherwise, there’s so much going on on the tennis court, in the locker room… This is to just cut off and be prepared to focus on my game.

Props to you to be able to pass out before a match, despite the anticipation and the pressure.

Absolutely, once I lie down, I can knock out within a minute or two. And it really helps me get in the zone.

How has your fitness and diet changed over the years?

I did a food intolerance test in India, which showed that my yeast intolerance was very high. So I’ve completely stopped having bread; it’s been about two years now. Perhaps before a match, I’ll have fish and white rice, which gives me the energy I need. While playing, I’ll have banana and you need electrolytes and water of course – especially when it’s hot. Otherwise, I keep things as simple as possible. Fitness wise, I travel with my trainer, and that’s made a huge difference in terms of stretching at the right time, cooling down – especially as you get older and recovery becomes more important.

What makes the Australian Open Special for you?

The culture, the tournament, the way they treat us – it’s one of the best experiences for players. The tournament always goes out of the way to constantly make sure that players get the best possible facilities, and that’s why a lot of players love coming to the Australia Open. Melbourne is a great city, especially for someone like me who’s a huge foodie. There are fantastic restaurants across the city; and the weather is great this time of the year. Even if you just walk around the courts at Melbourne Park, irrespective of who is playing, there’s always a big crowd that’s very passionate about tennis. You see [people from] different cultures, and it’s a delight to see how they cheer and help their players get through those tough rounds. It’s a great opportunity for anyone to come and experience this atmosphere.

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Which are some of your other favourite tournaments to play at?

Luckily for me, my tennis takes me to some wonderful cities, London for Wimbledon for example. And you get to see them at their best when you travel at the highest level. I love Palm Springs too [which hosts the Indian Wells Masters in March]. Indian Wells is a small place, but it’s really nice there, you can drive around and explore the town. It’s very quiet and has a lot of golf courses. I love golf, so I get in a game whenever I can. In terms of places I just love visiting, it would have to be New York. Manhattan for the buzz. But when I’m there it’s for 10-12 days, two weeks, I don’t know if I could live there.

What do you think of the current state of Indian tennis? Any younger players to watch out for?

I’d love to see more international tournaments – like ITF’s Futures, ATP’s Challengers – being played in India. And we need a more robust grass-root system. The former is important because it would help Indian players to play more in their own country. Because tennis is an expensive sport and to constantly travel to different countries to play becomes tough for many athletes. So if each state in India, could just bring in one or two tournaments, it would be great. Right now, we only have one ATP event in India [the Tata Open Maharashtra in Pune].

Do you see this happening in the near future?

No, but I think it depends on corporates, federations, players, everyone coming together and really building that system. In Bangalore, I have tied up with this gentleman who runs the Sports School. It’ll have boarding, lodging, and offer multiple sports. Every kid will have to play two hours of mandatory sport; and after they’re 11 or 12 they can specialise in the sport of their choosing. I already have the Rohan Bopanna Tennis Academy in Bangalore, and have a bunch of Serbian coaches who are constantly there. Now we will coach exclusively via the school, which has seven ITF-approved tennis courts. It’s a similar concept to the schools you have in the US – where sports is the priority, but you also get a well-rounded education.

Building a new system from the ground up will take time to bear fruit.

It will definitely take another 10-15 years, because it’s a process at the end of the day. Not everyone is going to become a world champion, but you have to do the right things to get the right results. And I’m fortunate to have access to some of the world’s top coaches, the latest developments in the field of sports science. So we’ll have a sports science centre too – and kids will have access to the correct diet, to nutritionists, psychologists, best practices in fitness, recovery…

Who are some of the most exciting young players on the circuit now?

There are a couple of youngsters who are doing well – Siddhant Banthia. Mahak Jain, who’s playing well and has a lot of potential. I think we have some great juniors in India, but sometimes the coaches need to understand that there’s a better facility, a better system for their students. Abroad, coaches will train a particular age group, say from six or seven, till 12 or 13. Then someone else takes over and takes their game to the next level. Here you may have a great talent, but coaches will coach kids till they’re 18, and that doesn’t always give you the best results.

Is the tennis community quite tight-knit in India?

It is everyone doing their own thing at the moment, but I think we all need to come together for the better of the sport. I think that’s what will make a difference at the end of the day.

source: http://www.gqindia.com / GQ / Home> Live Well> Travel / by Shika Sethi / airbnb.com / January 25th, 2019

‘Excellence is taking pride, being best in work’

Athlete Vandana Rao was felicitated at the valedictory function of Besant centenary celebrations organised at Dr T M A Pai International Convention Centre in Mangaluru on Saturday.
Athlete Vandana Rao was felicitated at the valedictory function of Besant centenary celebrations organised at Dr T M A Pai International Convention Centre in Mangaluru on Saturday.

Bengaluru-based Coffeelab Limited President Sunalini N Menon stressed on Saturday that excellence is taking pride in work and being the best at the work.

She was speaking at the valedictory function of the Besant centenary celebrations organised by Women’s National Education Society (WNES) at Dr T M A Pai International Convention Centre here.

She said, “Nobody remembers how fast the job was done, but how well the job was done. Whether be it washing utensils in the kitchen or sweeping the floor, being the best in your work is a self-portrait of what you are and the best insurance in the future for a job,” Sunalini said.

She said creativity and eye for detail are a must for the perfect execution of goals.

Sunalini, reflecting on her four decades of experience as a coffee taster, described the coffee tasting as a fascinating journey. “It is not a mere cup of coffee. There is so much of science and knowledge that you will learn humility,” the internationally recognised coffee-taster said.

She also invited the students present in the hall to learn more about the profession.

She said Indian Coffee Board offers ‘Kaapi Shastra’ on how to brew a perfect cup of coffee and there is a PG diploma course on coffee quality and another course on coffee entrepreneurship from Indian Institution of Plantation Management (IIPM).

She said her Coffeelab analyses samples from across the world.

“We are more as a facilitator, depending on what the market wants and what the grower can provide,” she said.

Presiding over the programme, former vice-chancellor of SNDT Women’s University Prof Rupa Shah urged women not to be fearful about the outcome. “I will compete and emerge successful should be the motto,” she stressed.

The Besant group of institutions felicitated alumni achievers including writer Kasturi, gynaecologist and well-known athlete Vandana Rao.

Kasturi and Devayani, who had emerged as toppers and declared as Vasantha Ranis while in school in 1959, were felicitated on the occasion.

Devayani thanked the management for remembering them after 50 years.

source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> State> Mangaluru / by Harsha, Mangaluru / January 19th, 2019

The woman who brewed change

Asia’s first woman coffee taster, Sunalini N. Menon, is now opening a museum for coffee

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Susheela Nair

The aroma of coffee wafts through the air as one steps into the Coffee Lab in Sadhashiva Nagar, a posh locality in the heart of Bangalore. Every nook and corner of the lab is adorned with mugs, coasters, antique jugs, filters and other coffee paraphernalia collected from all over the world. The Coffee Lab bears the semblance of a mini museum with its walls lined with a variety of packaged coffee and curios from around the world — exquisite grinders, scented candles, filters, mugs, and a whole shelf of good old-fashioned tumblers, a stark contrast to a regular sparkling white laboratory filled with shiny apparatus used for coffee accreditation and testing.

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It also houses memorabilia, including tribal products from coffee growing areas, areca nut pickers, ancient milk measurement units and coffee pots. Each equipment throws light on the culture of the country it comes from. For instance, Italian pots have ornate carvings; the ones in Iran are known for their silver and filigree work; Pakistan has a recurring crescent moon pattern while Egypt sports designed Cleopatra. The star attraction of the Coffee Lab is the painting of Mona Lisa in coffee powder.

In the middle of the lab, inhaling deeply from one of the deftly prepared samples of green and roasted beans, in front of her, is the first woman coffee taster in Asia and ‘quality-control expert’ Sunalini N. Menon. After acquiring a Master of Science in food technology, Sunalini’s first choice was to become a dietician, but destiny had something more fascinating in store for her. She had to choose between further studies at the New York Institute of Dietetics or a job with the Coffee Board. But she chose the latter which was a turning point in her life.
From an assistant taster at the Coffee Board of India to the head of the quality control department (at the age of 28), and director (quality control) until 1995, Sunalini has traversed a long way fighting a lone battle against all odds at every stage of her career. Steering her way through the male-dominated world of coffee tasters and growers, recognition and acceptance as an accredited international cupper came her way belatedly, almost two decades later. She is a walking encyclopaedia on coffee and knows the coffee bean inside out. This coffee veteran takes 100 sips of coffee — all in a day’s work. Known as Asia’s first woman of coffee, she moved on to set up her own lab, the Coffee Lab in Bangalore, in 1997 for evaluating the technical nuances of Indian coffee.

The advent of liberalisation in the Indian coffee market inspired Sunalini to set up her own lab in 1996. She established Coffee Lab Private Limited, the first private sector lab of its kind equipped with modern equipment and accredited by the Coffee Board of India, in Bangalore.
Explaining the main objective of her Coffee Lab, Sunalini says, “From the seed to the cup, we offer the entire gamut of services. We delve into the technical aspects of coffee-making, quality testing, advising growers on how and when to sell the beans, and preparing special coffee brands. Coffee Lab uses the time-tested techniques of visual and organoleptic evaluation for the quality analysis of Indian coffee. We conduct appreciation courses for homemakers and also classes for farmers.”

True to her social commitment of empowering women economically, Sunalini has employed women to handle the sensitive and critical steps of green coffee evaluation. Though there are innumerable problems plaguing the coffee industry, the coffee veteran believes that the burgeoning coffee culture in the country has the potential to impact the market.

Revealing her plans to start a Coffee Museum, Menon says, “A trust will be formed as it is a non-profit initiative. We will start the story of Baba Budan (who brought coffee to South India) and traverse through the cultural aspects of coffee, diversified cultivation pattern and types of seed material. We are planning a layout that is representative of a typical Indian coffee plantation. The exhibits will include antique coffee roasters, grinders, brewing equipment, mugs, cups and coffee powders from different parts of the world.”

source: http://www.tribuneindia.com / The Tribune / Home> Trends / January 26th, 2019