Tag Archives: Dhanyata M Poovaiah

Paddy legacy in a coffee landscape

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Dhanyata M Poovaiah writes about Kodagu’s paddy varieties, festivals linked to the agrarian calendar and traditional rice dishes.

Vasudha and Krishna (in purple) varieties of paddy being cultivated near Ponnampet in Kodagu. Photo by Ravi Shankar

Kodagu today is synonymous with its lush, aromatic coffee plantations. But long before coffee arrived with the British, the region’s identity was rooted in paddy cultivation.

Kodagu transitioned from paddy to coffee only in the late 20th century, as coffee plantations turned to be more profitable and less labour-intensive. In recent years, real estate development has resulted in the conversion of paddy fields into non-agricultural land.

Yet, rice continues to be the staple diet in Kodagu and remains an important crop, cultivated in around 14,000 hectares in the district. Consequently, the cultural life of the region is intertwined with the various phases of paddy cultivation.

The Kodava New Year, Edmyar Ondh, celebrated in Mid-April, marks the beginning of the paddy cycle. The year is ushered in with ploughing of the paddy fields. During Kodava Kakkada, the peak monsoon month from mid-July to mid-August, paddy saplings are transplanted. On the 18th day of Kakkada, known as Kakkada Padhinett, maddh payasa, a special dessert is prepared from a plant locally called maddh thoppu (medicinal plant). This plant (Justicia wynaadensis) is known to have several medicinal properties which helps boost immunity.

The Kailpodh festival, celebrated on September 3 every year, marks the completion of transplantation and offers a period to relax after the hard labour. 

Puthari, celebrated in the Birchiyar month between November and December, marks the harvest of paddy.

“Since Kodagu is blessed with abundant rainfall, paddy cultivation is entirely rainfed and cultivated as a single-season Kharif crop in the lowlands,” says Dr Prashantha C, Assistant Professor of Entomology and Head of the Agricultural and Horticultural Research Station, Ponnampet. 

“From December to March, the focus shifts to coffee harvesting and processing,” he adds.

Local paddy varieties, known for their flavour and aroma, are largely grown for self-consumption. “High-yielding varieties meant for commercial use are declining due to reduced returns,” adds Dr Prashantha.

Labour shortages and increasing human-animal conflict have also discouraged farmers from continuing paddy cultivation.

However, Kodagu is still home to several varieties of paddy. Among the indigenous varieties are Jeerige Sanna, BKB – developed by agriculturist Baduvanda K Belliappa, Biliya, Rajamudi, Doddi and Boliya, while popular high-yielding varieties include Tunga, KPR-1, Athira, BR-2655, MTU 1001 and IR 64.

“Indigenous varieties such as BKB and Doddi grow up to 3.5 feet in height and are a good source of fodder for the cattle. However, they are low-yielding and require 150 days to mature. High-yielding hybrid varieties such as Athira grow 2 to 2.5 ft and have less straw. These varieties mature at 120 days and usually require mechanical harvesters,” says Koniyanda Sanju Somaiah, an agriculturist.

Varietal conservation

According to seed conservationist Ravi Shankar B P, paddy varieties from any part of the country can be grown in Kodagu. Only the yield may vary. He has conserved over 100 varieties of paddy from across the world including the Kala Namak (Buddha rice) from Uttar Pradesh and Magic rice (Komal Saul) from Assam, and wishes to preserve several other unique rice varieties.

“With proper techniques, yields of paddy can be increased fivefold. This involves proper water management and in-situ green manuring. Under this method of manuring, short duration leguminous crops such as cowpea are grown in the field and are incorporated into the soil after sufficient growth, before the paddy saplings are transplanted. This improves soil fertility and its physical, chemical and biological properties, while reducing the need for external manure,” says Ravi Shankar. 

Local varieties yield around 10–15 quintals per acre, while high-yielding varieties can produce 25–33 quintals per acre.

Paddy cultivation plays a vital ecological role as well. Waterlogged fields can help recharge groundwater, depending on soil and local conditions.

“The rise in the water table ensures that lakes, ponds and streams do not go dry even during summer” says Dr Veerendra K V, Scientist (Plant Protection) at Krishi Vigyan Kendra, Gonikoppal. 

“Government schemes currently support farmers through subsidies on machinery, paddy seeds, pesticides, bio-fertilisers and green manuring crop seeds. However, increasing the minimum support price and offering other monetary benefits for cultivators will ensure increased paddy cultivation in the region,” he adds.

At present, procurement delays and storage challenges continue to deter farmers. While harvesting takes place in November–December, procurement happens only in February–March.

On the table

According to chef Naren Thimmaiah, Kodavas traditionally consumed pukkalakki (boiled rice) as their staple. Jeerige Sanna was used to prepare pulav and ghee rice on special occasions. However, since the mid-20th century, the white BKB variety has been widely adopted in the region. BKB and Jeerige Sanna varieties are also used to prepare otti, noolputt, kadambutt, paputt and thaliyaputt and payasa. 

“In Kodava cuisine, pairing the right curry with the main rice-based dish is essential,” adds Naren.

Naada mann, naada kool’ (my soil, my rice) is a popular saying in Kodagu, reflecting the belief that instead of abandoning rice cultivation, each family should maintain at least a small patch. “For this, government support is crucial,” notes Ravi Shankar.

Women workers bundle paddy seedlings for transplantation in a field near Ponnampet in Kodagu. Photos by Ravi Shankar

Workers with harvested paddy. Photo by Ravi Shankar

A paddy field near Ponnampet. Photo by Ravi Shankar

A paddy field near Ponnampet. Photo by Ravi Shankar

source: www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> India>Karnataka / by Dhanyata M Poovaiah / April 09th, 2026

Kodagu’s monsoon delicacies

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Traditional treats

As monsoon was the prime season to sow paddy — Kodagu’s main crop in the days of yore — people had no time for any other activity. So, this season was regarded as inauspicious and no ceremonies or celebrations were held. In between, the people would forage for these seasonal treats and prepare mouth-watering delicacies.

Processed bamboo shoots being sold in Kodagu. Photos by Arjun Bopanna, Niveditha Harish and Nisha Poovaiah

The aromas of baimbale curry (bamboo shoots curry), kummu curry (mushroom curry), kembu curry (colocasia curry), njand curry (crab curry), bhel meen curry (fish found in flooded paddy fields), pole meen curry (stream fish curry), therme thoppu palya (fiddlehead fern fry) are indicative of monsoon in this district located in the Western Ghats. These dishes are exclusively prepared during the wet months.

“The foremost reason these dishes are consumed only during the monsoon months is that the main ingredients such as aal kummu, baimbale are only available during this season,” says Chef Naren Thimmaiah.

According to Naren, cooking styles in each region would have developed purely on a trial-and-error basis. “Our elders would have realised when to eat what, the good and bad traits of a dish through experience,” he adds.

Purple delight

Unique sweet dishes prepared during this season are maddh payasa and maddh putt from maddh thoppu (Justicia Wynaadensis). Maddh translates to medicine in Kodava language and thoppu is leaf. The extract obtained from the leaves and stems of this plant imparts a beautiful, deep bluish-purple colour to the dish. 

These dishes are prepared and consumed only on Kakkada padinett, the eighteenth day of kakkada month (early August) in the Kodava calendar, when this plant is believed to have accumulated 18 medicinal properties.

The plant, rich in antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties, is said to improve overall health. Its anti-microbial properties are also said to boost immunity during the monsoon months, when one is more likely to fall ill.

Another quintessential monsoon dish is baimbale curry made from bamboo shoots. The shoots are cut into small pieces and soaked in water for two days to remove the acidic toxins. The shoots are said to have anti-inflammatory, anti-ulcer, anti-diabetic and anti-oxidant properties. The baimbale curry is best had with akki roti called otti.

A woman preparing Kodagu delicacies. Photos by Arjun Bopanna, Niveditha Harish and Nisha Poovaiah

Surprise yields

Mushrooms, called kummu, also make great ingredients. These edible fungi grow in small patches and gathering them is a fun activity but it takes a trained eye to distinguish between edible and poisonous mushrooms. 

Another Kodava delicacy is prepared from fiddlehead ferns, called therme thoppu. These ferns are found near the banks of water bodies such as ponds, streams and rivers. Only the tender shoots of these wild ferns are selectively picked. The easiest way to cook it is to saute it with onions, dried chillies and salt. It is best had with otti. 

Like therme thoppu, kembu (colocasia) is generally found near water bodies and marshy lands. There are three varieties of kembu: red stemmed (chonda) kembu, green stemmed kembu and mara kembu. Mara kembu grows under the shelter of large trees. While Tulunadu is famous for the patrodes made from colocasia leaves, in Kodagu people mainly prepare curry using it.

With the onset of the monsoon, people also make dishes from jackfruit seeds.

Apart from these seasonal plants, people also get a good catch of crabs and fish in the flooded paddy fields and streams. Piping hot curries prepared from crabs and fish add to the charm of the monsoon months.

“All the traditional food prepared during the chilly monsoon season adds heat to the body. Also, pepper is used widely in the region, which again adds heat to the body,” Naren says.

Naren explains that as the people were expected to work in the rains and were most likely to get cuts and wounds, the food consumed would build up body temperature and aid in quicker healing of the wounds. “There were no tablets available then, the the foods themselves had medicinal values,” he says.

Preserved for future use

While these dishes are prepared only in the rainy season, bamboo shoots, jackfruit seeds, hog plums (ambatte) and fish are preserved for later use.

Bamboo shoots and hog plums are stored in brine; fish are coated with salt, smoked and dried.

These foods are so culturally ingrained that people staying elsewhere either make it a point to go to Kodagu to procure these food items or get their relatives to send across these delicacies.

“The food items sourced from Kodagu have an altogether different taste. So, preparing dishes by getting the ingredients from Kodagu is a special feeling,” says Sudha Poovaiah, who is settled in Bengaluru. 

source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> Spectrum> Spectrum Top Stories / by Dhanyata M Poovaiah / September 18th, 2021