I was recently invited to Kaveri Ponnapa’s book launch that I had been looking forward to.
Many in Mysuru may not recognise her name, but anyone who has even a passing interest in Coorg or the culture of small, distinct communities of this land would certainly know her remarkable work, ‘The Vanishing Kodavas.’
Just like her previous book, which was rich with history, culture and stunning imagery, her latest work, ‘Coorg: The Cookbook — Recipes and Stories from a Golden Land,’ is both beautiful to look at and deeply satisfying to read.
This book nourishes not just the appetite but jogs the memory, too.
‘Coorg: The Cookbook’ has been in the making since 2012 and the patience shows. It is thoughtfully structured into sections such as rice-based dishes, meats, seafood, vegetarian dishes, foraged foods, pickles, sweets and beverages.
Each section opens with a gentle historical introduction explaining how and why these foods became part of the Coorg dining table. It tells us why it is not just about how to cook, but also about understanding why Kodavas cook the way they do.
The book also includes sections on foundational pantry ingredients and the spices and herbs that define Coorg cuisine. For readers unfamiliar with some ingredients, the author thoughtfully offers alternatives.
There is even a section explaining how to use the book, making it as accessible to an outsider who may not be familiar with Coorg cuisine at all. That said, even a Kodava like me had some surprise discoveries.
The first surprise I encountered in the book was that while modern Coorg is synonymous with coffee plantations, it was earlier primarily a land of paddy farmers.
No wonder rice sits at the centre of not only Kodava cuisine but also culture. Appropriately, the first dish the book introduces is the humble yet iconic ‘Akki Otti’ or rice roti.
Another delightful revelation is the long-held myth that Coorg cuisine is dominated by pork. Yes, Coorg is famous for its pork dishes, but the book reminds us that Coorg food is far more diverse.
Of the 132 recipes in the book, just 36 are non-vegetarian dishes and only 6 of them are pork! The remaining dishes feature chicken, mutton, fish and crab.
Meanwhile, there are 45 vegetarian recipes! which include an array of ‘pallyas’ & ‘chutneys.’
So, the notion that Coorg cuisine is dominated by the hog is hogwash.
What also struck me personally were the dishes I had never heard of before. There are recipes such as ‘Miniature Jackfruit Pancakes’ (Coorg name: ‘Chatti Puttu’) and the intriguingly named ‘Steamed Rice Parcels with Hitchhiker Elephant Ear Leaves’! (Coorg name: ‘Mara Kembe Puttu’).
But what truly elevates this book beyond the realm of a cookbook are the stories quietly interwoven along with the recipes. Food, after all, is rarely just about taste; it is about people, places and memories.
Reading about the ‘Nende Kari’ or the ‘Crab Curry,’ transported me back to my childhood in Coorg. I remembered being sent to the paddy fields with my cousin to catch crabs for dinner. We would return with a small mug full, often with bleeding fingers. Crabs can put up quite a fight.
While our grandmother prepared the ‘Nende Kari’ (Crab Curry), we sat near the fireplace listening to her tell stories of elephants straying into plantations, of wild boar hunts and town gossip, all while the aroma of spices slowly filled the kitchen.
This is the kind of book that eventually becomes an heirloom, something to be preserved, treasured and passed down through generations. Kaveri Ponnapa herself writes, “Recipes are cultural inheritances.”
This is why ‘Coorg: The Cookbook’ feels more than just pages of recipes. It takes you on a journey down memory lane.
For many Kodavas living far from their homeland, the book may well feel like a bridge back to traditions that are slowly fading. That alone is reason enough to own a copy.
In many ways, to use a culinary euphemism, this book pairs beautifully with Kaveri’s earlier work, ‘The Vanishing Kodavas.’
One documents the culture, the other documents the cuisine. Culture and cuisine, the two pillars that define every community.
Kaveri Ponnapa observed that “Kodavas are vanishing,” but with her books, she has made sure they will not be forgotten.
P.S. : You can order your copy athttps://kaveriponnapa.com/coorg-the-cookbook/coorg-the-cookbook/
e-mail: vikram@starofmysore.com
source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> Columns in Black & White> Top Stories / by Vikram Muthanna / March 03rd, 2026
