Category Archives: Famous Personalities of Kodagu / Coorg

From cricketers to squash players to shuttlers: Sportstars ride the surfing wave

From cricketers to squash players to shuttlers — athletes are falling in love with surfing as a hobby and fitness necessity.

Surfing instructor Murthy Megavan with India Test opener Murali Vijay.
Surfing instructor Murthy Megavan with India Test opener Murali Vijay.

Surfing’s biggest moment in India might well be when Priyanka Chopra is seen in the Baywatch movie next year. But quietly, three of Indian sport’s fittest bods are riding the waves on one of Chennai’s pristine beaches. Squash’s decade long champ Joshna Chinappa, India Test opener Murali Vijay and former World Championship medallist in badminton doubles Ashwini Ponnappa have each given a try to taming the threatening rips and breaking waves at Kovalam beach’s Covelong Point surfing facility on India’s east coast these last few years, making surfing the avant-garde recreation of India’s top sportspersons.

You would expect fitness’ reigning celebrity deity Milind Soman to have dropped by to catch a wave – and he has indeed.

You’d reckon Matthew Hayden the big Aussie who played IPL in Chennai and takes off on Tasman coast with his surf board and fish rods, would definitely have given it a go. And you’d guess Indophile Jonty Rhodes, a perpetual adventurist, to have sniffed out this sea corner of India. But Joshna, Ashwini and Vijay have swooshed surfing right into the heart of India’s sporting fraternity – more are expected to follow.

Fit bods first streamed into Indian cable televisions glamorously through Baywatch and the red trunks. But even as Indian sport shaves off the bulges from its ranks and acquires lean muscle, surfing – incidentally an Olympic discipline at the 2020 Tokyo Games – is the latest in recreation and rehab even.

Ashwini took a day-trip to Chennai last month and headed straight to Covelong having heard about the surfing haunt from friends. “I was there for a day and went to the beach directly. It’s the most fun I’ve had, but it’s quite a bit of a workout,” says the Coorgi, who trains at Bangalore and Hyderabad alternately.

Known for her devotion to fitness – needed for covering the back court from where she has a mean smash, whipped at some of the fastest speeds in women’s badminton – Ashwini was bound to be attracted to surfing. However even half an hour on the board catching waves winds up being a colossally intense workout — not one Ashwini minds.

“I ended with sore muscles after my first try. But I definitely want to try this as part of fitness work. It’s good for the core, and I am hooked,” she said. Wary of water on her face initially, and not the surest of swimmers, Ashwini was initially cagey. But as soon as she negotiated the shallow waters and the baby waves – feet apart and bent at knees, hands steering the balance, she was excited and knew this wasn’t the last time she’d be strapping on the board to the ankle.

Surfing instructor Murthy Megavan with badminton doubles specialist Ashwini Ponnappa (R)
Surfing instructor Murthy Megavan with badminton doubles specialist Ashwini Ponnappa (R)

Having overcome the fear, and the beach being just an hour’s flight away from Hyderabad, Ashwini hopes to be a regular.

Squash champ Joshna Chinappa has always freakishly pursued fitness – given her sport demands exacting amounts of strength and agility from its practitioners.

She was on the fitness treadmill right from when she went to play the British Open junior finals a dozen seasons ago, but she heads out to Covelong in her hometown, mostly owing to her love of the water.
She first fetched up a year ago for a one-off lesson from Covelong’s inspirational instructor Murthy Megavan. Murthy, son of a fisherman and abandoned by his father, took to the sport starting off on a wooden window plank, but has now a hundred surf boards at his centre – some coming from donations of foreign enthusiasts.

On her first ride, Joshna would lose balance and fall off, almost hurting her foot.

“It’s very hard. I fell off, but got back on and gave it another go. I used to think I have great balance in my sport, but after the first time surfing I realised I couldn’t even get up and stand on the board,” she laughs recalling the first fumbles.

Upper-body fitness
Surfing needs an all-round supple body, but demands some superior upper body fitness to start out. Lying flat on the board, surfer typically paddle into deeper waters first, move to squatting in half position and then with an almighty strain on the leg stand on the board, taming the rips.

“I’d hurt my leg first time, but I returned because all I cared for was that my friends would see me standing on that board,” she laughs. “It felt like I’d conquered the world because it’s a challenge to come down a wave,” she says, adding that the general level of strength for anyone trying out has to be high. “The hard part is staying on the board, and we’re just the elementary level. Imagine the pros,” she says.

A regular season is too risky still for Joshna to go out surfing given fear of injury, though she insists it’ll be her favourite activity in off-season.

One man who doesn’t bother worrying — also because he’s put in more surfing hours — is India top-order batsman Murali Vijay. Murthy says he’s been coming to Covelong since 2014 and enjoys an easy breezy connect with the sport – not unlike his day job of facing upto quicks with mighty elegance.

“He likes surfing because it calms him down, he’s told me,” Murthy says. “Vijay’s come here before start of major series. He’s good on the board, and finds it equivalent to yoga or meditation,” Murthy says.

Surf season in Chennai is April to September, though Murthy expects more to camp here year-round.

“All the sportspersons who’ve come here are excellent students and respectful of the instructors and the sport. No starry airs, no attitude,” he says. You can’t afford to when striking a good body and leg position and dealing with an oncoming wave.

Ashwini was a quick learner, moving onto the 9 foot board used for Levels 3 and 4 pretty fast. “It’s like breathing comfortably when trekking. Only 10 percent arrive here fit to surf straight away, given the demands on the upper body. It’s great to know Indian sportspersons are top level in fitness,” Murthy says.

Riding the peaks then is just a matter of discipline and technique.

source: http://www.indianexpress.com / The Indian Express / Home> Sports> Sports Others /by Shivani Naik / Mumbai / November 02nd, 2016

Dipika, Joshna train for World championship

WARMING UP: Akansha Salunkhe, Sunayna Kuruvilla, Dipika Pallikal and Joshna Chinappa. Photo: M. Vedhan
WARMING UP: Akansha Salunkhe, Sunayna Kuruvilla, Dipika Pallikal and Joshna Chinappa. Photo: M. Vedhan

After months of living out of a suitcase, Dipika Pallikal and Joshna Chinappa are back in the city, but they are not resting. The two are at the Indian Squash Academy (ISA) here for a three-week camp to get ready for the World women’s team championship to be held in Paris from November 28 to December 3.

“The (past) three months (playing in PSA World tour) have been crazy, playing week after week,” Dipika said to The Hindu here on Friday, after the training camp. “It’s nice to practice again with Joshna. When it comes to a team, we are at our best. We enjoy each other’s company,” she added.

With two of the country’s top under-19 players in Sunayna Kuruvilla and Akansha Salunkhe making up the four-member team to Paris, Joshna, the top-ranked Indian at 13 in the world, felt the team is looking to first enter the top eight, and then take it one step at a time. “It will be tough, no doubt, but we will do our best,” she said.

Acknowledging the competition, which includes top players from England, Egypt, France, Australia, Malaysia, The Netherlands and the USA, Coach Cyrus Poncha said a top-eight finish “is what we are aiming for”. Concurring with Poncha, India’s foreign coach Ashraf El Karargi, said it will be difficult to look beyond the quarterfinals.

For the two juniors, Sunayna and Akansha, it will be a learning experience and an opportunity to prove to one and all that they are here for the long haul. “It is a big honour. I have so much to learn,” said Sunayna, for whom this will be the third International (senior) event after World juniors (Poland) and South Asian Games (SAG, Guwahati). Akansha said her aim is to “improve myself” after having played in the SAG (Guwahati), Asian team championship in Taipei and the World juniors (Poland).

Ashraf revealed Egypt’s Zahed Mohamed (men’s World No. 25) and Shehab Essam (No. 92) will train at the ISA with the Indian junior players from January 15 next year for the Asian juniors (boys and girls) championship to be held in Hong Kong in February 2017. “They are experienced pros, and playing with them will certainly help our players improve,” he said.

source:http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Sport> Other Sports / by K. Keerthivasan / Chennai – November 05th, 2016

The scent of the city I call home: Uthappa

Robin Uthappa (TOI Photo)
Robin Uthappa (TOI Photo)

Attacking batsman Robin Uthappa is a proud Bengalurean. The 30-year-old India cricketer isn’t amused when called a ‘Madrasi’. “I make it a point to say I’m from Bengaluru,” he states pointedly. Uthappa is as passionate about the city he calls home as he is about cricket. Be it the chocolate fudge at Corner House or the steaming-hot idlis at Brahmin’s Cafe, Uthappa can’t get enough of the city. In a chat with STOI, the talented Kodava lists five things he loves about the city.

WEATHER
I love the weather in Bengaluru. The city has the best weather in the country. It has gotten a little warmer in the past few years, but still the weather here is incomparable.

SCENT
I love the scent of this city, it’s warm and comforting. It’s very different from anywhere else. Whenever I get off a flight, the first thing I do is to take a few deep breaths and I know I’m home. This is something you cannot experience anywhere else in the world.

PEOPLE
I love Bengalureans. I’m talking about those who are born and raised here. Our people are extremely hospitable and caring. You don’t get to see or much less interact with very many of them, because not only has the city grown physically and economically, it has also seen a huge influx of people from other parts of the country and even the world. Sadly, though, this has resulted in a change of temperament, which was once as cool as the weather. Still the people of Bengaluru are loving and giving, as we’ve seen on numerous occasions. That’s something I simply love about the people here.

FOOD
The range we have here is out of the world. My wife and I are both foodies and love trying new cuisines and restaurants. The city’s cosmopolitan fabric makes it a food hub. There are a lot of old hangouts which take me back in time. Among the places I visit regularly are Corner House, Hotel Airlines, Fanoos and Richie Rich. One place I visit a lot these days is Brahmin’s Cafe in Basavanagudi. When we plan a breakfast outing, our whole family is up early and we are there by 7 am. We get out there as often as we can.

Robin Uthappa
Robin Uthappa

MY TIME
When I need my space, I get into the car and head in the direction of the airport. There are other connecting roads which have less traffic and I enjoy driving on them, too.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India /News Home> Sports> Off the field / by Manuja Veerappa / TNN / November 06th, 2016

In peace the warriors rest

biddandabopannakf09nov2016

In the northern part of the Mahadevpet quarter of Madikeri town lies a royal graveyard, unbeknownst to many. Gaddige is a set of three regal mausoleums built in the Indo-Saracenic style and enclosed within a compound. Upon each of these rectangular structures is a large dome and four turrets. Two kings of Kodagu (Dodda Vira Rajendra and Linga Rajendra) and their queens lay buried in the two larger identical structures and a third smaller one has the remains of the chief preceptor (Rudrappa) of the kings.

Beside these three tombs, at a little distance away but within the same enclosure, are the tombs of a father-son duo Biddanda Bopanna (Bopu) (1769-1807) and Biddanda Somayya (1800-1879). They had served Kodagu and its kings as sarva-karyakaras, or army generals. While Bopu was the general under Dodda Vira Rajendra (1789-1809), Somayya was the general under Chikka Vira Rajendra (1820-1834). Both tombs have the statue of a Nandi upon it.

Under the Kodagu kings, jamma ryots (farmers by inheritance) held their farmlands by military tenure. The word jamma came from the Sanskrit word for birth, janma. Every able-bodied male jamma ryot had to compulsorily serve in the king’s army. Known as chaudigaras, they worked for 15 days at a time. Around 10 to 100 soldiers served under an army chieftain called the jamedar and a number of jamedars served under an army officer called karyakara. The karyakaras worked under a sarva-karyakaras, or the general. The karyakaras and the sarva-karyakara wore a kombu toppi, a gold zari-bordered red turban with a kombu (horned emblem) in front.

A Kannada inscription states that Biddanda Bopu of Bavali village entered the Raja’s service through palace duties on the fifth day of the new moon of Magha month in the Keelaka year (1788). He worked for 19 years until the year Prabhava, bravely risking his life while fighting wars against Tipu Sultan of Mysore and hunting elephants, tigers and other wild animals, to ultimately become a sarva-karyakara. The Biddanda family originated in Kokeri village in Kodagu nearly three centuries ago. In this Kokeri house lived brothers Medappa and Poonacha. Medappa was a member of the local village panchayat and he married Chaniyapanda Subbavva in 1768. They had a son Bopu, who was born in 1769 on what was deemed to be an inauspicious day by the panchayat members. It was decreed that the son’s face was not to be seen by the father and that the mother was not to be allowed into the house. Hence, the mother and the son lived with the maternal family in Podavada village.

Chronicles of the pastUnfortunately, after some time, both Medappa and Subbavva passed away. The orphaned boy was then brought to the Kokeri Biddanda house by his uncle Poonacha. In 1788, at the age of 19, Bopu joined the king’s army. He worked hard and rose through the ranks to become a karyakara. Poonacha and his wife passed away and their two daughters were married into other families. In 1795, the king transferred Poonacha’s property, which was called ‘Mookanda Bane’ (pasture), to Bopu and his paternal relatives for the military services they had rendered.

Bopu moved from Kokeri to Bavali where he built a ‘Nalkett Mundmane’ — a traditional country house (mane) with four blocks (nalkett) built around an open central courtyard (mund). This became the ‘Biddanda Ainmane’, or ancestral home, in Bavali. One can find description of many events pertaining to Karyakara Biddanda Bopu in Reverend Hermann Moegling’s Coorg Memoirs.

In 1799, the Fourth Anglo-Mysore War broke out between Tipu Sultan and the British. When the British laid siege upon Srirangapatna, the erstwhile capital of Mysore kingdom, Dodda Vira Rajendra sent his treasurer Karnika Subbayya and his officer Karyakara Bopu to invade the Tulu region, which was then a part of the Mysore State. Bopu led the Kodagu army and defeated Sadri Behari and Mir Mohammed who held the Kodial (Mangalore) district. Soon, Kodagu occupied Mangalore, Barkur, Bantwal, Bellare, Viragamba, Udiavara and other regions. Karnika Subbayya came to hold and govern Kodial at that time.

Eventually, news came from Srirangapatna that Tipu Sultan was killed and that Mysore was taken over by the British. Later, Kodagu was made to evacuate the Tulu region and return it to Mysore. Karyakara Bopu was later made the sarva-karyakara of Kodagu. Biddanda Somayya was born in the year Roudri (1800) to Bopu and his wife Mayavva. Bopu died in 1807 at the young age of 38 years. In commemoration of his remarkable army tenure, the king of Kodagu ordered that Bopu be entombed near the royal tombs of Gaddige.

Somayya joined the Raja’s army in 1821. Like his father, he rose through the ranks to become a sarva-karyakara. In 1834, Kodagu got into a conflict with the British. Under him, the Kodagu army was able to inflict damage upon the British army initially. But Chikka Vira Rajendra, the last king of Kodagu, chose to surrender to the British. He was then exiled and the British took over Kodagu.

In those days, the British decreed that all the native officers would be retained in service. But Sarva-karyakara Somayya refused to be in the service of the new government and thus, retired early instead. After his retirement, Somayya lived in the Bavali Biddanda Ainmane and got involved in farming. But he did have one last wish. After his death, he wanted to be buried beside his father and before the rajas of Kodagu. The British allowed this and refused to have anybody else, including any surviving relatives of the rajas, to be buried in the Gaddige area. Somayya died on August 16, 1879. His tomb was erected in Gaddige with the permission of the Chief Commissioner of Coorg. There is a separate graveyard for other members of the Biddanda family in Bavali as well. While the tombs lie neglected today, their history and significance continue to throw light on the history of our people.

source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> Supplements> Spectrum / By Mookanda Kushalappa / November 08th, 2016

Jwala Gutta-Ashwini Ponnappa part ways, pair says ‘time to look for a new beginning’

Jwala Gutta announced that she would be concentrating on mixed doubles while Ashwini Ponnappa will now partner N Sikki Reddy.

Jwalla Gutta and Ashwini Ponnappa first played together in 2010. (Source: Express Archive)
Jwalla Gutta and Ashwini Ponnappa first played together in 2010. (Source: Express Archive)

Jwalla Gutta and Ashwini Ponnappa have decided to part ways. The duo have been India’s most successful women’s double pair. Both have now decided to embark upon their own separate careers. While Jwala Gutta announced that she would be concentrating on mixed doubles, Ashwini Ponnappa has decided to partner N. Sikki Reddy.

Gutta said that she would stop appearing in women’s doubles and will partner Manu Attri while Ponnappa will be playing women’s doubles teaming up with N. Sikki Reddy. Gutta and Ponnappa played together for the first time in 2010. It was in the 2010 Commonwealth Games that they announced themselves where they the Gold medal in women’s doubles.

Ashwini Ponnapoa reportedly said, “Me and Jwala had a great partnership but it was time for us to look for a new beginning.

source: http://www.indianexpress.com / The Indian Express / Home> Express Sports / by Express Web Desk / November 08th, 2016

No more knocking, I need to break the door down, says Uthappa

Two days before Karnataka’s Ranji Trophy Group B tie against Assam, Robin Uthappa hopped over to Shivaji Park after training with his team and had a session with his personal coach Praveen Amre at the nursery of Mumbai’s batsmanship. No wonder then that the duo was seen involved in a long chat after Uthappa ended the day unbeaten on 108 to bail Karnataka out of trouble.

“I came back to Mumbai from Kolkata and I told sir, “I wasn’t getting my swing. My feel wasn’t that great”. We practised at Shivaji Park for two days and he was confident in two days I’ll get my feel back,” says Uthappa. “I actually got it back and feel really good. I just want to capitalise on what I have done today and make it a big one.”

After being unable to come good in Karnataka’s first two games of the season, Uthappa has finally gotten into run-scoring mode.

Ever since he burst on to the domestic scene as a 17-year-old, you like to keep watching him bat. Similarly, as he has evolved into a mature cricketer and an individual, you feel like listening to him every time he talks.

Despite being on the fringes and having made several returns to India’s squad, Uthappa hasn’t really been able to cement his place in the team. Having crossed 30, one cannot help but wonder if he has given up on wearing the India jersey. Ask him if he has started entering into the “enjoying the game” phase, and he interrupts you right away.

“Absolutely not,” he says. “I love the game, I enjoy it but my dream is still very strong and I still believe I’ll play for India.

“That’s what drives me. If that doesn’t drive me, then I certainly won’t be playing cricket. I wouldn’t take up the spot of a youngster.

“I’ll keep trying. I genuinely think age is just a number and I just think I need to keep stacking up the runs. No more knocking on the doors, I need to break it down in a big way.”

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Sport / by Amol Karhadkar / Mumbai – October 29th, 2016

Madikeri: Women’s Dasara celebrated with enthusiasm in Gonikoppal

Madikeri :

“Society can develop only with clean thinking and fair-mindedness. Do not mix politics in Dasara celebrations. When I came during last Dasara celebrations, I was the president of Handicraft Corporation. I have come now as the president of the Parishat. The Almighty has bestowed high positions on me,” said member of vidhana parishat, Shantheyanda Veena Achaiah. She was speaking after inaugurating the third year’s women’s Dasara held in Mangala Vihara auditorium, Gonikoppal on Monday, October 10.

Meanwhile, member of the legislative council, Veena Achaiah, who is identified as the best women’s Dasara performer, felicitated the former grama panchayat president and president of the third year’s women’s Dasara , Kulletira Pravimonnappa.

Rekha Sridar and Sharina Sukumar sang the prayer song. Grama panchayat member, women’s Dasara treasurer Prabhavathi welcomed the gathering. Sheela Bopanna compered the programme and chief secretary M Manjula proposed the vote of thanks.

Gonikoppa, traditional attire, flower designing, mehendi competition, cooking without fire competition, group dances, janapada songs and pick and act competitions were held at the occasion.

Pravimonnappa, president of the programme, gave a keynote address.

Meals were served at the occasion.

source: http://www.daijiworld.com / DaijiWorld.com / Home> Karnataka / from Daijiworld Special Correspondent / Daijiworld Media Network – Madikeri (EP) / Madikeri – October 11th, 2016

A Pandi monium!

Sandalwood actress Meghna Appaiah shares a recipe of Pandi Curry, rustled up in the traditional Coorg flavour.

Meghna Appaiah
Meghna Appaiah

Pandi Curry
Ingredients
1 kg pork
1 tsp red chili powder
2 tsp turmeric powder
2 onions
5 to 6 green chilis
2 pods(18-20 cloves) garlic
About 8 cm long ginger
3 tsp cumin seeds
5 or 6 cloves whole
5 tsp coriander seeds
2 tsp black pepper balls
Salt to taste
1 cup (250 ml) Water
1 lemon (optional)
2 tsp black vinegar (Kachanpuli, prepared/available in stores).

Directions
Place the pork in a capacious bowl. Cut it to about 3 cm size and wash thoroughly. Now, drain the water completely. Set the pieces aside.
Add red chili powder, turmeric and salt. Mix well, until a thick paste is formed.
Now, prepare a mix by grinding onion, green chili, garlic, ginger, 1 tsp of cumin seeds, and 2 cloves to a coarse mixture. Do not add water.
Boil 1 cup of water in a thick bottomed vessel. Add the ground masala and continue boiling for a couple of minutes.
Add marinated pork and cook until tender. Ideally, this shouldn’t take more than 20 minutes.
In a griddle (bandli), roast together 2 tbsp cumin seeds, 5 tbsp coriander, 2 tbsp black pepper and cloves until a smokey fragrance wafts into the room.
Grind the roasted mixture to a very fine powder.
Add roasted and powdered mixture and black vinegar to the pork. Continue cooking on low flame until oil starts separating from the meat. Serve hot. You may additionally sprinkle some lemon juice for enhanced taste.

— as told to Pooja Prabhan

source: http://www.deccanchronicle.com / Deccan Chronicle / Home> Entertainment> Sandalwood / Deccan Chronicle / October 30th, 2016

Ranji Trophy: Uthappa, Nair script Karnataka’s dominance

Karun Nair's strike rate was marginally higher than Robin Uthappa as the two ended the day having scored an unbeaten 108 each.  – B. JOTHI RAMALINGAM
Karun Nair’s strike rate was marginally higher than Robin Uthappa as the two ended the day having scored an unbeaten 108 each. – B. JOTHI RAMALINGAM

Assam’s first-innings century-maker Amit Verma seems to have passed the run-feast baton on to the Karnataka batsmen.

Seasoned Robin Uthappa and Karnataka’s stand-in captain Karun Nair made full use of the chances offered by the Assam fielders to pile on hundreds on Day Two in the Ranji Trophy Group B tie at the Mumbai Cricket Association’s Bandra-Kurla Complex facility. It helped Karnataka snatch the advantage in the contest.

Scorecard
At stumps, Karnataka – after restricting Assam to 325 in the morning with Verma running out of partners – was comfortably placed at 223 for two. If the unbeaten pair sees off the second new ball, due in 11 overs, on a wicket that still offers decent carry for pacers, then it would be interesting to see if Karnataka presses for an outright victory to mark the festivities.

The conditions were not at all threatening for Uthappa and Nair. But the situation in which they scored hundreds was remarkable. Pacerts Arup Das and Krishna Das had removed openers Mayank Agarwal and R. Samarth in the first three overs. Had wicket-keeper K. B. Arun Karthick latched on to a sharp chance down the leg side off the second ball Nair faced, Karnataka would have been three down with nothing much on the board.

But Nair survived, and thereafter, looked in little trouble. Uthappa played cautiously at the start but soon started playing his trademark drives. All four of his scoring strokes before lunch were boundaries, with a straight punch off Krishna Das the highlight among them.

On the first ball after lunch, Uthappa had a slice of luck. He nicked one from Abu Nechim Ahmed that pitched in the off-stump channel to Karthick, but the umpire consulted the television umpire to check if Ahmed had overstepped. The bowler didn’t have any part of his foot behind the crease. Uthappa, then, concentrated harder and preferred to go after the loose balls bowled by the spinners.

Nair survived another chance when he was dropped by Assam captain Gokul Sharma off leggie Amit Verma on 85, before he was outdone by Uthappa in the race for the hundred. While Uthappa steered Ahmed for his twelfth four to celebrate his 21st first-class century, Nair soon joined him in a similar fashion – a late cut off Verma that sped for a four.

source: http://www.sportstarlive.com / Sports Star Live.com / Home> Cricket / by Amol Karhadkar, Mumbai / October 28th, 2016

The no-nonsense town

In the hills of Coorg in Karnataka lies Madikeri, the town that gives a military feel & charms with its orderliness

Where order prevails: View from the Raja’s Seat garden; The church in the Fort, now an ASI Museum; Two of the Royal Tombs; The Sri Omkaresvara Siva Temple Photos by the writers
Where order prevails: View from the Raja’s Seat garden; The church in the Fort, now an ASI Museum; Two of the Royal Tombs; The Sri Omkaresvara Siva Temple Photos by the writers

Hugh and Colleen Gantzer

At first glance, Madikeri looks as precise and orderly as a cantonment. In a way, that’s what it is. According to a coffee-planter, “If you throw a stone in Madikeri, you’ll hit a General. If you throw two stones, you’ll probably get a brace of Colonels, bristly moustaches and all!” This could account for the military look of this cottage-dotted town in the hills of Coorg in Karnataka. Madikeri’s narrow, winding roads were meant for brisk walkers and horses. We felt this when we drove through the town to the Palace Fort.

It certainly is a Fort, with thick walls and deep gates. At the far end of its grounds, next to two enormous effigies of elephants is a board that proclaims:

“Mercara was founded by Prince Mudduraja of the Haleri dynasty in 1681 and named after him as Muddurajanakeri. This later became Madikeri by the locals. The British called it Mercara.”

At one corner is a steepled building, now a museum with hero-stones standing erect in the yard. We walked across this former Anglican Church. The light streaming in through its beautiful stained glass windows added to its meditative ambience, ideal for a museum. And, in a fitting tribute to India’s revered Field Marshal Cariappa, the former little vestry had been dedicated to the memory of this unforgettable army chief. He was a Coorgi, a Kodava.

From such shrines to the past, we drove down into town and parked at the gate of a living shrine: the impressive Sri Omkaresvara Temple.
Officially this is a Siva temple of the Lingayats but there are distinctly Islamic idioms in its eclectic architecture. It has a central dome with minarets at the four corners, surmounted by their own, smaller, domes. It is possible that the influence of Tipu Sultan had a lasting impact on the architects of this temple. It was built by Lingaraja II in 1820, just 21 years after Tipu Sultan died in Srirangapatna. We saw the Islamic influence even in other Lingayat monuments crowning a green hill referred to as Gaddige. A plaque installed at the foot of one of the plinths read ‘Royal Tombs’. Built in the Indo-Sarcenic (sic!) style, these monuments with domes and minarets, hold the mortal remains of Kodava Royalty and court dignitaries.

The central tomb is of Dodaveerarajendra and his queen. To the right is the tomb of Lingarajendra built by his son Chikkaveerarajendra in AD 1820. To the left is the tomb of the royal priest Rudrappa, built in 1834.

Nearby are buried two royal officials, Biddanda Bopu, who died fighting Tipu Sultan, and his son Biddanda Somaieh. Clearly these warrior people opposed anyone who tried to cub their freedom to decide their own future.

Our immediate future, however, was constrained by the weather. We looked up at the roiling clouds above us. These were threatening but it hadn’t rained. We decided to rush down to Abbi Falls before a storm boxed us in.

Abbi was spectacular. Even though the water was not gushing in its roaring monsoon fury. it foamed and cascaded over rocks, frothing and surging before pouring into a large pool, and then flowing under a suspension bridge. The falls are well worth visiting but do treat that forest path with a great deal of respect.

It was almost sunset when we reached Raja’s Seat, a popular public garden with horizon-stretching views of the plains. Had the ancestors of the Coorgis battled across those lowlands? We began to think about the origin of the Kodavas.

Their traditional masculine dress of a turban, long coat, sash and curved dagger points strongly to a Middle Eastern connection. The Kodavas have no temples or pujaris, they conduct all their religious or social ceremonies themselves, and revere their ancestors. The Kurds of the Zagros and Taurus mountains of Turkey, Iran and Iraq are also known for their proud and independent nature. Were they the ancestors of the Kodavas? ‘Kurd’ and ‘Kodava’ have a certain similar ring. A popular theory claims that they are the descendants of people who were part of the army of Alexander the Great.

That could explain the very no-nonsense character of their mountain home, Madikeri.

source: http://www.tribuneindia.com / The Tribune / Home> Spectrum> Travel / October 23rd, 2016