Category Archives: Coffee News

Rwanda beats Brazil, Colombia as “Best of the Best” coffee producer

Rwanda has made strides in being competitive in the global market, producing quality cash crop.

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It only came as a surprise to many who have not followed the growth of Rwandan coffee over the years.

Rwanda’s efforts to produce one of the best quality in the coffee sector has indeed paid off. Rwanda’s coffee has now scooped two awards in the 3rd annual Ernesto Illy International Coffee Awards that took place on October.

Ngororero Coffee Washing Station bagged a brace of prestigious accolades including “Best of the Best” and “Coffee Lover’s Choice” awards, marking a historical milestone. No coffee from any part of the world has ever picked up both awards, which was an achievement that will go down into the history books. Indeed the strategies to make the world’s best coffee bore fruits.

In its bid to be competitive in the international market, Rwanda has made a series of changes in the coffee sector, to ensure high-quality production of the cash crop. Last year, the National Agricultural Export Development Board (NAEB) implemented new approaches that ranked the country’s export among the best, globally.

Based on the beans’ aromatic richness, complexity, balance, elegance and aroma intensity, and strength, a jury of coffee experts in New York, USA considered Rwanda’s coffee as “Best of the Best.” The exposure was vital for the country to learn more about the global market and areas to improve to be at the top of the log.

Bagging the two awards this year, Rwanda edged top producers of coffee in the world including Brazil, Colombia, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Guatemala, India, and Nicaragua. The country eased past both South American and East Asian countries that as well are potential competitors in producing top-notch quality coffee.

llycaffè S.p.A. an Italian coffee roasting company that specializes in the production of espresso announced Rwanda’s coffee milestone in the gala. The company that was founded by Francesco Illy in 1933 is a global leader in high-quality coffee, passionate about perfection.

Rwanda made its official debut at exporting roasted coffee to the USA in 2017, a ten-tonne consignment with the first shipment valued at U$77,000. The business partnership opened up other investment opportunities for the Rwanda coffee to expand its market and increase its share of export revenue. It also boosts trade in the agriculture sector between the U.S and Rwanda, furthering the partnership between America and Africa.

Rwanda seeks to export at least 24, 500 tonnes of quality coffee in a year, 1,500 tonnes more than 2017 and 2,500 tonnes more than 2016. As part of NAEB’s strategies to produce quantity and quality coffee, they aim at planting 34,000 new coffee trees by the year 2024.

Global prices should increase the export receipts given that the country sells quality cash crop. Rwanda’s total coffee export revenue rose to $59.8 million in the first 11 months of 2017, up from $53.8 million earned over the same period in 2016, registering a growth in value of 11.1 percent or $6 million.

source: http://www.exchange.co.tz / Exchange / Home> Industry & Trade> Agribusiness / by John Green / October 18th, 2018

As rains wash away coffee, Board sounds chicory alert

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The quality of coffee that we consume daily could see a dip in purity because of the drop in production.

The Coffee Board has raised fears that the coffee supplied in the domestic market could see a rise in chicory content. Worried about this, the Board has urged the food safety department to look into the chicory content in the coffee supplied to domestic consumers.

M S Boje Gowda, chairman, Coffee Board, told DH that people should drink coffee wisely in the coming days. There has been a drop by 82,000 tonnes in coffee production this year, because of excess rains and landslides in Chikkamagaluru, Kodagu and Kerala.

Around 80% of the coffee grown is exported and there can be no compromise in the quality in the international market. So, there will be a drop in the exports.

The domestic market, on the contrary, will not see a lull because of addition of chicory. Chicory costs Rs 50 a kilo and according to Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI), adding chicory up to 49% is permitted. But there are chances that change in its percentage will go unnoticed in many local brands. Thus, it is important that the food safety department keeps a check, Gowda said.

“We are trying to limit the chicory addition to 10%. Now, it is for FSSAI to put a limit and test the quality in the local market. We have also made a proposal to the ministry in this regard,” he added.

The Board had estimated the production to be four lakh tonnes, but it has been only around three lakh tonnes. It is now keeping a close watch on the production cycle and quality.

Rajesh, a local coffee grower from Kodagu, said that it was not just the flowers, but even the stored dried beans have been lost. This will definitely impact the market in the long run as the standing crops have also been destroyed.

An official from the food safety department said the matter will be discussed with the ministry and a call will be taken.

source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> State / by Bosky Khanna / DH News Service / October 21st, 2018

The Jews’ Café Society

A coffee shop in Midtown, Manhattan. Flickr CC/ Neo_II www.habenbacher.at
A coffee shop in Midtown, Manhattan. Flickr CC/ Neo_II www.habenbacher.at

Perhaps because I’m writing this as I sit in a vibrant, quirky coffee shop in Washington Heights, its walls decorated with graffiti-inspired art and fake ivy, it strikes me that whenever I arrive in a new city, I make a beeline for the nearest independent coffee house. But it wasn’t until I read Shachar Pinsker’s new book, “A Rich Brew: How the Café Created Modern Jewish Culture” (NYU Press), that I learned that Jews and coffee shops have been connected for at least a century; Jews, especially Jewish writers, he argues, have made the café their primary gathering place and, in many cases, their collective muse. (Read The Jewish Week’s review on the book here.)

Pinsker, who teaches Hebrew literature at the University of Michigan, chronicles the history of cafés in six cities (Odessa, Warsaw, Vienna, Berlin, New York and Tel Aviv), showing that major Jewish journalists, novelists, poets and playwrights, from Sholem Aleichem to Isaac Bashevis Singer, were not just inspired by coffee shops but frequently used them as the settings for their work.

Jews have a long history with coffee. While coffee houses first sprang up in Constantinople, Cairo and other Middle Eastern cities during the mid-sixteenth century, it was a Jewish entrepreneur who brought the coffee house to Europe, opening one in Livorno in 1632. The first café in England was opened in 1651 in Oxford by one “Jacob the Jew,” who was an immigrant from Lebanon.

A Rich Brew” tells the story of how cafes “created modern Jewish culture.” Courtesy of NYU Press
A Rich Brew” tells the story of how cafes “created modern Jewish culture.” Courtesy of NYU Press

As coffee drinking became popular throughout Europe, according to the late Robert Liberles in “Jews Welcome Coffee: Tradition and Innovation in Early Modern Germany,” engagements between Jewish couples were sealed by the parents over a cup of coffee rather than a drink at the local tavern. David Liss’ 2003 historical novel, “The Coffee Trader,” centers on a 17th-century Jewish refugee from the Portuguese Inquisition who tries to corner the market on coffee only to be caught up in all kinds of commercial and romantic entanglements.

The kinds of food served in cafés also often had a Jewish connection; think of the Viennese Jewish pastry maker Franz Sacher and his famous creation, Sacher Torte, or Stephen Klein, also from Vienna, a Jewish chocolatier who escaped to America in 1939 and started Barton’s Candy Corp.

Donald Schoenholt is the president of Gillies Coffee Company, the oldest coffee maker in the country. The business, which was started in 1840 by a Scottish family, was taken over by Donald’s uncle, Mac, in 1912. I first met Donald in the late 1980s, when I joined the Little Neck Jewish Center, which he served as president. It was the era of the yuppies; Starbucks (acquired in 1987 by Howard Schultz, a Jewish guy from Brooklyn) was just emerging on the scene and “specialty coffees” were all the rage. As Schoenholt put it, “People were starting to eat brie instead of Velveeta,” and they needed a more upscale coffee to go with their meals.

Schoenholt told me that Jewish merchants participated in the American coffee trade since the 18th century, and that, “with each wave of Jewish immigration, more Jews were drawn to it.” While New York was the center for manufacturing coffee, he said, the major port for the importation of coffee was New Orleans, where Jewish merchants like Jacob Aron traded in both coffee and gold. By the 1880s, Philip Wechsler, an immigrant from Austria who became a major donor to the United Jewish Appeal, had opened a coffee-roasting factory in New York. William Black (né Schwartz), who started by selling shelled nuts under a stairway in Times Square, founded the chain of luncheonettes known as Chock Full o’ Nuts. And Samuel Schonbrunn, a Jewish immigrant from Hungary, created the Savarin brand of coffee, which was served at the Waldorf Astoria.

In our time, coffee shops loom large in pop culture — think of Monk’s Café, where the characters on “Seinfeld” hang out in almost every episode, sitting in a booth near the front door. (The exterior shots were taken, of course, at Tom’s Restaurant, an actual diner at Broadway and 112th.) Ruth Cohen (that’s her real name), the cashier, appears in more episodes than any other character besides the stars. Jerry Seinfeld went on to create and host the web series “Comedians in Cars Having Coffee,” now in its 10th season; it has featured Mel Brooks, Bob Einstein and Sarah Silverman.

And who could forget “Diner,” Barry Levinson’s semi-autobiographical 1982 valentine to his hometown of Baltimore; the film is about a group of 20-something Jewish friends in the 1950s who made the local diner their gathering spot.

Even non-Jews associate coffee with the Chosen People. As a sign outside a church in Harveys Lake, Pa. (in the Poconos) asked last summer, “How does Moses make coffee? Hebrews it.”

Ted Merwin’s column appears the fourth week of the month

source: http://www.jewishweek.timesofisrael.com / Times of Israel / Home> The New York Jewish Week / by Ted Merwin / October 23rd, 2018

Brazilian Coffee Growers Council to open Global Coffee Platform Sustainability Conference

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Silas Brasileiro, President of the Brazilian Coffee Growers’ Council, will open the Global Coffee Platform’s (GCP) Global Coffee Sustainability Conference 2018, to be held from 8 to 9 November in Belo Horizonte, Brazil.

The annual event brings together sustainability companies and representatives from nine GCP platforms around the world – Brazil, Vietnam, Indonesia, Uganda, Colombia, Kenya, Honduras, Tanzania and Peru – to discuss topics such as the future of sustainability, the role of producing and consuming countries, sustainable coffee regions, and impact investments to promote sustainability.

Other speakers include keynote speaker José Luiz Tejon, Director of Biomarketing Agência de Propaganda e Consultoria; José Sette, Executive Director of the International Coffee Organization; Marcelo Burity, Head of Green Coffee Development at Nestlé; Daniel Martz, Director of Corporate Affairs and Sustainability at Jacobs Douwe Egberts; Han de Groot, CEO of Rainforest Alliance; Steven Collet, Director of the Dutch Sustainable Trade Initiative; and Kim Elena Ionescu, Sustainability Director of the Specialty Coffee Association.

“The conference will be a unique opportunity to interact with prestigious names of the Brazilian and international coffee sectors, professionals of public and private sectors, associations, certifiers and verifiers, NGOs, people truly engaged and committed to coffee sustainability,” GCP Chairman Carlos Brando says in a release.

For more information, visit www.gcsc.coffee.

source: http://www.gcrmag.com / Global Coffee Report / October 23rd, 2018

Cafe Show Seoul to launch business matching service

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Seoul Cafe Show has announced it will launch Cafe Show Mocha Port, a one-to-one business matching and networking service to connect buyers and exhibitors at the event, taking place from 8 to 11 November.

Seoul Cafe Show expects the online meeting service to provide productive customer relationship management and communications, resulting in more business and efficient time management.

More than 600 exhibitors have already registered their products in Mocha Port, from fields such as coffee, food and beverage, bakeries, interior, machine and equipment, and start-up companies.

Approximately 6000 coffee industry buyers from about 30 countries, including Japan, China, Taiwan, Vietnam, India, Malaysia, the Americans, and Europe, will go on the pre-matching system.

Exhibitors and buyers who want to match the companies participating in the Seoul Cafe Show can register until the end of October. The online pre-matching will be processed until the end of October.

The Seoul Cafe Show will be held at Samsung-dong in Seoul, Korea.

Cafe Show Seoul will host a range of events, competitions, and seminars such as the World Coffee Leaders Forum, Seoul Coffee Festival, and World Coffee Battle.

For more information, visit www.cafeshow.com/eng

source: http://www.gcrmag.com / Global Coffee Report / October 24th, 2018

Indigenous Indians fight deforestation threat with gourmet coffee

Zilient /  ARCHIVE PHOTO: A visitor checks coffee beans at the 'International Coffee Festival 2007'
Zilient /
ARCHIVE PHOTO: A visitor checks coffee beans at the ‘International Coffee Festival 2007’

Indigenous people in southern India are combatting deforestation by planting millions of fruit trees to shade their coffee crops
By Rina Chandran

Bangkok (Thomson Reuters Foundation):

Once forbidden by colonialists from cultivating coffee, indigenous people in southern India have won a prestigious award for their bean, which they farm while fighting deforestation.

Araku Valley Coffee won gold in the Prix Epicures OR Award in Paris earlier this month. The beans are grown by Adivasis – or “original inhabitants” – of southern Andhra Pradesh state through a cooperative set up by the Naandi Foundation.

The organic farming model has benefited more than 45,000 Adivasi families, with profits from the high-grade coffee put into schools, healthcare and other needs of the remote community, according to Manoj Kumar, who founded Naandi.

The initiative has been a success because it built on the strong connection that Adivasis have to the forest, he said.

“They fully embraced the concept of biodynamic farming, because it is a holistic approach that benefits the eco-system, and is in tune with their traditional beliefs of caring for the community and the forest,” he said.

“This is not just about food security; it is also about pride in living without government handouts, and conserving the forest,” he told the Thomson Reuters Foundation over the phone.

The Adivasis are also countering deforestation by planting millions of mango, papaya and orange trees to provide shade for their coffee crops, as well as in other areas, with support from the Paris-based Global Livelihoods Funds.

While India has pledged to keep a third of its total land area under forest and tree cover, a growing population and increasing demand for land for mining and other industrial activities are placing greater stress on forests.

Activists say a new forest law favouring commercial plantations would undermine indigenous rights over forests and lead to more logging.

Coffee estates thrived in the Araku valley’s cool climate during the British colonial period, but Adivasis were prevented from growing it and did not take up the crop after independence, according to Kumar.

That changed after the Naandi Foundation began working in the region 18 years ago, first setting up schools and healthcare facilities, and then helping to organise a cooperative to farm and market coffee.

Araku Valley Coffee soon commanded high prices in global auctions, and opened its first cafe and shop last year in Paris.

But the real challenge for the Adivasis is not picking coffee beans the right shade of red or deciding on a marketing plan; they face a more existential threat as forests disappear, Kumar told the Thomson Reuters Foundation.

“The Adivasis have such a deep spiritual connection with the land and the forest,” he said.

“Taking that away from them is taking away their life.”

(Reporting by Rina Chandran @rinachandran. Editing by Jared Ferrie. Please credit the Thomson Reuters Foundation, the charitable arm of Thomson Reuters, that covers humanitarian news, women’s rights, trafficking, property rights and climate change. Visit news.trust.org to see more stories.)

Our Standards: The Thomson Reuters Trust Principles.

source: http://www.news.trust.org / Thomson Reuters Foundation News / by Home> Place / by Rina Chandran / October 15th, 2018

‘Innovation is always brewing’

Source: Twitter
Source: Twitter

With the advent of this year’s International Coffee Day, Tata Starbucks is celebrating “Starbucks at 100” along with a line-up of week-long activities called Brewtober. Bringing to life the coffee heritage and inspiration through this initiative, the company is offering coffee lovers with a unique way of celebrating coffee, starting with various immersive coffee experiences to the big day of “Starbucks 100” — a day when the organisation shares coffee love with its customers by offering all its short/tall handcrafted beverages for Rs 100.

Veetika Deoras, who recently came on board as the CMO — marketing, category and digital at TATA Starbucks, is a seasoned Tata Administrative Services Officer with 16 years of experience in the Tata Group. At Starbucks, she oversees all related facets of the joint venture in India that focus on capturing relevant growth opportunities and ensure keeping customers at the heart of everything and delivering the authentic Starbucks Experience in India. Excerpts:

Q Share some customer experiences with Brewtober and also with the recently debuted Pumpkin spice latte?

Starbucks has a 47 year legacy of coffee sourcing, roasting and processing. To bring to life this coffee heritage and inspiration, Tata Starbucks has launched Starbucks Brewtober, which is a week-long celebration of our coffee and our customers which offers heavenly experiences and special promotions across all our stores in India.

The celebration is offering customers with authentic in-store experiences rooted in high-quality Arabica coffee. Our Starbucks stores will feature various international coffee blends, handpicked from seven different parts of the coffee belt, and offer to our customers coffee-forward experiences like Farm to Cup — an immersive coffee tasting exposure that brings forth the company’s commitment to ethically sourced coffee and supporting farmer communities across the globe and Starbucks Coffee Experience Bar — a master class into the art, craft and science behind different cups of coffee.

Through Starbucks Brewtober, we are both honoured and excited to share our love and passion for coffee with the customers. We look forward to welcoming them to our stores.

Pumpkin Spice Latte is an iconic beverage that is loved by customers all over the world and we are always delighted to bring this global seasonal classic beverage to our customers in India. Our partners have handcrafted the beverage to perfection. Featuring Starbucks espresso at the core and unique ingredient combinations, the beverage is a novel sensorial experience.

Q What are the various factors that the organisation keeps in mind every time a new promotion like Brewtober or a product is launched?

At Starbucks, innovation is always brewing. We take great pride in partnering with customers in their journey of coffee exploration. With our innovative products and experiences like Brewtober, we want to deliver our coffee passion and the highest quality coffeehouse experience to all our customers. We at Starbucks are focussed on innovating customer experiences, based on their feedback. We listen actively to our customers and work towards exceeding their expectations. For us every moment is one of connection and recognition.

Q What strategy does the company follow to attract customers? Is Brewtober aimed at increasing footfalls?

India is one of the most exciting markets in the world, with very diverse and dynamic customers. Since opening our first store in Mumbai in 2012, the way they have embraced the Starbucks experience humbles us, and makes us very optimistic for the long-term. We carry forth a rich legacy of coffee. Starbucks Brewtober, a week-long celebration of coffee, is a coming together of the spirit and legacy of the company where our customers can experience superlative coffee, warm partners and inviting stores. Brewtober is a reflection of the coffee heritage of Starbucks, as well as the coffee passion of our store partners and customers.

Q What is the future of the Tata Starbucks association in India? How has your association been with the company?

We are proud to be partnering with Tata, an organisation which shares our values, as we seek to build a socially responsible company that is creating rewarding careers for our partners and delivering a positive impact in the communities we serve.

Q What is the secret of the company’s sustainability?

Starbucks is known for the iconic third place experience, which is a composite of great coffee, warm partners and superior store ambience. It is passionate about delivering the highest quality coffeehouse experience to customers. The world-class service of our partners and their passion and commitment is what, I believe, truly sets us apart. Customers come for coffee, stay for the inviting warmth and return for the very human connection.

source: http://www.thestatesman.com / The Statesman / Home> Supplements> Evolve / by Ratikanta Dutta / October 06th, 2018

Single is special

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Single-origin coffee celebrates terroir. Some of the country’s brightest coffee experts explain the art of brewing drinks with unique flavours

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Ashish D’Abreo, Co-Founder, The Flying Squirrel
Single-origin coffee is completely dependent on the farmer. Which is why not all single-estate coffees taste good. The flavour of the end product depends on how well the crop is taken care of by the farmer; how much care is put into cultivating it, such as pruning the plants, picking the beans on time. This is what makes single-estate coffee different from commodity coffee, that’s a mix of coffee grown at various places. Coffee grown at various regions tastes different. For instance, coffee from high altitudes is sweet, whereas that from lower altitudes is low on sweetness. Coorg and Chikmagalur produce some of the best coffee in the country. My favourite single-estate coffee is obviously ours — my partner Tej (Thammaiah) is a third-generation farmer and really knows what he’s doing.

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Marc Tormo Altimira, Founder, Marc’s Coffees
The Auroville-based coffee entrepreneur, Q Grader, roaster, brewer and creative consultant, says that single-origin coffee comes under ‘speciality’ coffee. “This term is used to describe coffee that is traceable to the farmer who grows it. He will place quality ahead of quantity and will produce the highest quality possible in his plantation. This is something unique and people will be willing to pay more for it. Speciality coffee is a way out for those who cannot compete in the commodity market where prices are subject to stock market rates. To produce it, the farmer needs an understanding and knowledge of drying, fermentation, and other techniques. I feel all regions in India produce world-class coffee — from Tamil Nadu, Kerala, to Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh.”

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Sadhavi Ashwani, co-founder, Baba’s Beans
Single-origin coffee is different from single-estate coffee. Coffee from say, Coorg or Chikmagalur is single-origin, while that from one particular estate in these regions is termed as single-estate. It’s farming practices and the soil in which the coffee is grown that add personality to a coffee, ensuring that it is immaculate in the cup. In India, for instance, since we grow a lot of spices, our coffee naturally takes on nutty, chocolatey notes. Most of our country’s coffee is shade-grown; the cherries are hand-picked and wet-processed by passing them through gushing water; it is raised on hilly terrains under the shade provided by the silver oak. Pepper wines creep on the trees and this adds to the soil. At Baba’s Beans, we have a variety that’s grown under the shade of fig trees, so it ends up taking on fruity notes. Every single-estate coffee has a story; every cup has a unique flavour owing to the personality imparted by the soil, the plants that it is grown next to and that of the farming techniques.

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Krittivas Dalmia, founder, Kaffa Cerrado
I don’t think single-estate coffee will ever replace regular, processed coffee. Neither is entirely replaceable. Coffee itself, as an industry, is still in the nascent stage, if you look at consumption in terms of percentage of population. Even among those who do drink coffee, the taste that they are used to, which includes chicory, is a very distinct one. So while there is an obvious difference in taste, flavour and aroma when it comes to single-estate coffee, the shift will take time. It has begun, though: in India, we seem to have skipped the stage of brewed coffee that is not single-estate (except outlets like CCD, which haven’t penetrated the local market that much), and moved directly to single-estate coffee. There can be ecological advantages to this, but it differs from estate to estate. Many estates are taking on bird-friendly or shade-grown practices, encouraged by the coffee board. It’s easier for the consumer to check which producers are following these practices and which aren’t. Plus, if you buy directly from the estate, the farmer gets the market price directly and middlemen are reduced to a large extent. You could count that as an advantage.

Compiled by Akila Kannadasan and Meghna Majumdar

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Life & Style> Food / Octobe 05th, 2018

A coffee cured by rain

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The mellow notes of Monsoon Malabar coffee take shape in the coastal city of Mangaluru and go on to travel the world.

It’s a mildly sunny day after three months of rain, but no one at the coffee curing yard at Allanasons, in Kuthar Padavu on the outskirts of Mangaluru, is complaining. Dark monsoon clouds hover in the distance, and an evening of much-welcome downpour is guaranteed.

After all, it is this Southwest monsoon rain and the moisture in the air that will help create Monsoon Malabar — said to be among the most hallowed coffee blends in the world.

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After all, can there be a better coffee than one cured by Nature?

The story behind this bean is rife with serendipity. It is believed that during the days of the Raj, when coffee beans were transported by sea to Europe, the humidity and sea winds worked on the bean, ripened it, reduced acidity and turned it pale yellow. When brewed, these beans yielded mellow, smooth coffee with what is sometimes described as a pleasantly ‘earthy’ flavour.

The coffee went on to develop a devoted following. Once packaging techniques and modes of transport were modernised, it could no longer be cured in transit. So, people worked on trial and error to recreate the conditions at sea on land, along the Arabian Sea coast.

At the three-acre curing yard that sports sheds with brick-red sloping Mangaluru-tiled roofs (with A Albuquerque etched on them) shored up by white pillars, there’s coffee in various stages of curing. Fresh bags of Arabica from Chikmagalur, Sakleshpur and Coorg are piled in a corner, while workers evenly spread out nearly 15,000 kilograms of green coffee beans using rakes. This is churned and raked every day to allow the beans to breathe. In an adjoining space is a similar quantity of beans spread out a fortnight ago. They are almost off-white in colour, plumper from the moisture absorbed.

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This batch is all ready to move to the next stage of processing. The coffee is packed in gunny bags filled to three-fourths capacity, and placed one on top of the other in a room with the windows open. The humid air will help the beans grow in size, and take on a mellow flavour. In between each stack of bags is a wind row, to allow for enough aeration, explains Poonacha PS, the manager of the Mangaluru unit. The bags literally swell by some inches after the three-month-long process.

Later, they go to a mechanised unit that cleans and segregates beans based on size. The highest quality must measure above 7.1 mm; that gets the AA grade.

Work on the coffee yard goes on through the year; the monsoon months are used to cure coffee that is processed the rest of the year before export. Of late, niche domestic retailers also stock this bean.

The time taken, labour-intensive process involved and the constant monitoring involved ensures the processed bean costs almost double or more that of its regular cousin. Roasted and ground bean can cost about four times more.

Poonacha, who recently went to Amsterdam for a coffee festival says: “The appreciation for this bean is huge. People loved it and looked at you with envy, because you have a process that can never be manipulated outside of this coast.”

Because Monsoon Malabar is an acquired taste, people either love it or hate it. And once a fan, it’s a lifelong affair with a coffee that reminds one of rainy days and romance.

Marc Tormo Altimira, 47, of Marc’s Coffees in Auroville, tasted his first shot of Monsoon Malabar more than two decades ago in Spain. “I never forgot the mellow, smooth coffee with notes of wine,” recalls Marc, who began brewing the coffee and retailing it about eight years ago. “When I started my coffee brand, I wanted to stock this, because it’s very unique to India. I buy my stock through the year from Mangaluru. What makes this blend very interesting is the story. It makes you nostalgic.”

Marc’s café pairs monsooned Arabica with dark chocolate brownies, slices of almond chocolate cake and grilled sandwiches.

One in a million
“Monsooned coffee is unique because no other country in the world can produce this,” he says.

Marc roasts two variants. A light roast Arabica best for black coffee or pour overs. And Malabar Blues, a dark roast of 50:50 Arabica and Robusta, which pairs well with milk.

What’s the best place to have a cup of Monsoon Malabar? Marc’s reply will make you smile.

“Ideally, a place where the monsoon is pouring down. When you are back from a walk in the rain and need something to warm you up. A cup of this is one of the best experiences you can have. After all, you are drinking a coffee created by rain, in the rain.”

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Life & Style> Food / by Subha J. Rao / October 04th, 2018

How sustainable is your cuppa?

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A look at the variety of factors that go into brewing a truly green cup, from direct trade to responsible single-estate players.

Coffee is the most valuable legally-traded commodity in the world, second only to oil.

It is estimated that 2.25 billion cups of coffee are consumed each day, worldwide. Ironically, the poorest countries in the world (Guatemala, Ethiopia, Peru and Honduras are some of the top producers of coffee) are growing it, while it’s the richest who are drinking it (the top five coffee consumers are all European countries)… and at prices that get more absurd every day.

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It is important to know that the coffee sold at retail is a different economic product from wholesale coffee, traded on the commodity exchange as green beans. And therein lies the rub. The money goes to those that process it. Coffee needs to be hulled, dried, roasted and ground before you can drink it. A big, shiny roaster inside your café means you can charge more than double what the farmer who grew the bean got for it. British charity Oxfam says the price of raw coffee exported from producer countries accounts for less than 7 % of the eventual cost of coffee to Western consumers.

The organic perspective
While certified organic coffee is sold at a premium, lower yields mean that farmers do not always profit in a meaningful way from obtaining certification, so most forgo it completely.

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Fair Trade is a good option because the middlemen in coffee are so notorious. Coffee importers provide credit to certified farmers to help them stay out of debt with coffee buyers. But, the certification itself is expensive and there are several brands that practise fair trade without certification.

There are more than a few brands in India that make sustainable, fair trade, organic coffee nowadays. Black Baza is one of them. Founder Arshiya Bose, having done a PhD in the brew, believes a healthy ecosystem creates the best coffee. Black Baza supports their farmers with regular field research on healthy ecosystem indicators: spiders are the pest-control and butterflies, the pollinators. Not only is their coffee organic but the tree cover under which the coffee is grown also has to be 80% natural forest trees.

Organic coffee is mostly always shade-grown because of the large amounts of pesticide and fertilisers required to grow coffee under the sun. Indian coffee competes with large-scale, high-tech coffee estates in Central and South America, which were razed rainforests to begin with. They became so completely stripped of nutrients that in many areas of Brazil, the land could no longer be used for agriculture.

Little wonder that sun-grown coffee is the third most heavily sprayed crop in the world.

A constant struggle
I spoke to Kishore Cariappa of the famed Cariappa Coffee in Kodaikanal (with its own café). Their organic, single-estate, single-origin coffee, is easily one of the best in the country.

Kishore is a stickler for detail. Because the coffee is naturally rain-fed — with no artificial irrigation — the beans all ripen at different times. This means harvesting takes place several times to ensure only ripe berries are picked. It’s time-consuming and labour-intensive, but the only way you can compete with larger coffee companies.

His state-of-the-art roasting and processing machinery was bought to handle 200 acres of coffee. He had dreamt of starting a co-op of the farms in his village — tribal people that grew coffee organically under the shade of forest trees. He had even set up a system by which the farmers would get a monthly salary instead of the once-a-year bumper price that comes with the crop. But all the farmers in his village had already given their coffee out on five-10-year contracts to a clan of local coffee buyers.

“Educated farmers keep track of the prices in London and know what price to demand. But the average farmer doesn’t. They are not exposed to the Internet and their holdings are too small for export. Add to that the fact that they get an income only once a year, so they borrow money from this consortium of buyers and have their coffee locked on contract. This way, the international market prices don’t apply to them any more,” he says.

Kishore decided to go ahead with growing his own coffee and quickly realised that the only way to make money being a coffee farmer was to start his own café. It’s no dream job, though. “Growing sustainable coffee is hard. Organic coffee is so much more labour-intensive; which means expensive. To export, you need 20 tonnes per batch at least to fill a container. Coffee has to be fresh, even the green beans, so you have to send it in batches which is another added cost.”

Direct trade, where coffee roasters directly purchase from farmers, is also a socially sustainable choice. There’s no set standard, and there are no certifications. Roasters directly negotiate prices with the farmers, who typically earn a higher premium for their product. Blue Tokai coffee bags come with a detailed card on the farmer and the farm on which the coffee you ordered, was grown.

We are blessed to be growing some of the finest coffee in the world, and there are now plenty of brands that do it well. Keep it local, nourish our coffee traditions and support those that are making a difference.

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Life & Style> Food / by Simrit Malhi / October 04th, 2018