Category Archives: Coffee News

Sreeraksha Poornesh on running a century-old coffee plantation, the rise of speciality roasters

Sreeraksha Poornesh loves the product of his plantations over all other coffees from around the world. But this is neither boast nor an arrogant statement in the wake of serious success. It is simply his truth, born out of the sheer love for farming and the coffee at Baarbara Estate. “At the end of the day, I’m a farmer and my heart and soul always say that my coffee is the best.”

The 30-year-old is a fourth-generation coffee grower of the illustrious MG Plantations of Chikmagalur, owned and run by the Indavara family for over 120 years. Baarbara Estate gets its name from the Anglo-Indian lady who sold the plantation to Poornesh’s great-grandfather eons ago. And Poornesh attributes his success, first and foremost, to its location. “I’m very lucky to have been handed down an estate on Baba Budan Giri,” he says.

For those who don’t know, the mountain is named after the 17th-century Sufi saint Baba Budan, who is said to have introduced coffee to India when he brought seven beans from Mocha, Yemen, to the country and planted them across the range. In January, the Coffee Board of India submitted an application for the Geographical Indication (GI) tagging of Babu Budan Giri arabica. The GI tag is meant to protect the heritage and quality status of a particular product; according to the World Intellectual Property Organization, it’s a “sign used on products that have a specific geographical origin and possess qualities or a reputation that are due to that origin.”

Sreeraksha01KF25jun2018

However, that isn’t enough to stay relevant, and Poornesh, armed with an MBA from Alliance Business School in Bengaluru, has introduced several new measures to keep up the business. Apart from getting high cup scores every year, he is now inviting roasters to the plantation to process the beans as they like and take them back to their establishments. In light of the changing coffee scene in India and the wave of speciality roasters cropping up across the country, this move is bold and certain to pay off.

“A cup is a team show,” says Poornesh. “As farmers, we do 60 percent of the work to ensure that the coffee you drink is amazing. The process starts with us and ends with roasters.”

Last season, the first roaster Poornesh brought over was Mithilesh Vazalwar, India’s first AeroPress champion and one of the country’s only 25 coffee Q-graders. Their mutual interest in the best-quality beans and obsession with everything coffee lead to a high-grade product that discerning customers can’t wait to get their hands on.

“A certain trend has been set by traditional roasters in India over centuries,” says Poornesh. “I realised that so much of the beans wasn’t processed and handled well. Now, we’ve taken things to a decent level and most third-wave roasters in India get our beans.”

Sreeraksha Poornesh
Sreeraksha Poornesh

Remarkably, having grown up with coffee, Poornesh wasn’t interested in joining the family business. After his MBA, he spent a couple of years working in Bengaluru before returning to Chikmagalur five years ago. He then began to study coffee in-depth, participating in workshops by the likes of Sunalini Menon (Asia’s first female coffee taster and expert) and attending lectures for coffee entrepreneurs at the Indian Institute of Plantation Management. He also did Kaapi Shastra, a coffee training programme by the Coffee Board of India.

“My goal is to dilute everything we grow into speciality coffee,” says Poornesh. Baarbara produces single-origin arabica at present. But he has no plans of expanding internationally, he adds. He has his sights firmly set on the Indian scene. “There’s a lot of potential here, a lot to do. I entered the business at just the right time.”

The brand Baarbara Berry’s status as one of India’s top-ranking coffees is also owed to Poornesh’s driven spirit. In the face of many challenges, including stiff competition, he is focused on getting higher cup scores every year. “You can’t be lax,” he says. “It’s not like you achieve a certain level and then let go. The crop is different every year, and it’s imperative that our cup quality is on the mark. Every year, in the beginning of the season, roasters test the quality, so consistency is very important.”

Now that Baarbara Berry has reached a certain level, Poornesh believes that the farmer-roaster interaction should progress too. Because harvesting and processing are intricate processes and significantly impact brew quality – flavour, texture, acidity, body – roasters can choose their methods for the kind of coffees they want.

Baarbara Berry offers green coffee as well as a range of roasted and ground beans. Owing to high elevation, around 5,000 feet, the ethically sourced and handpicked beans produce rich, full-bodied brews with balanced flavours and finish. MG Plantations is Rainforest Alliance Certified and UTZ Certified, for sustainable farming and better opportunities for farmers.

source: http://www.firstpost.com / FirstPost. / Home> Latest News> Living News> Living / by Tania Bhattacharya / June 25th, 2018

This Entrepreneur Risked His Father-in-Law’s Life Savings on His Business. Here’s What Happened

With hard work, it took only 18 months to get the money back.

CREDIT: Courtesy company
CREDIT: Courtesy company

Imagine you’ve just had twins. You need to support your family and work. You’re exhausted constantly. (And from experience, I can tell you baby exhaustion really does feel somewhere between death and stupid.) What do you do to keep going?

If you’re Neel Premkumar, you start concocting coffee shots in your kitchen, playing around with organic coffee beans and cold brewing. While the mad scientist behavior might have been born out of necessity (what innovation isn’t?), in a few months, Premkumar had found the ingredient and technique combination that worked. In fact, his creation worked so well, business bells started blaring in his brain.

The only problem? No money. (Cue the sad violins here.)

An option from inside the family
Fortunately for Premkumar, his father-in-law, Venkat Nemani, had some money–his life savings of $50,000. If Nemani would agree to give that and everything worked out, he wouldn’t lose anything and could even gain. But if things didn’t work out …

It was a huge risk. But Nemani had faith. The money–all of it–went to Premkumar. And what’s more, Nemani didn’t even haggle over details the way other investors or bankers would have.

“I never formally outlined a plan to pay him back,” Premkumar says, “past my good word that he’d be repaid!”

Premkumar recognized the trust. And, in return, he committed to the business full throttle.

“Failure was just not an option,” he says. “I named my company Dyla, which is a combination of my twin girls’ names. When I started, I thought to myself, ‘If I name this startup after my kids, there is no way I could let it fail.’ I think that as an entrepreneur, you just have to have a singular focus on success. What you’re trying to accomplish is hard enough in taking on industry giants. Self-belief is paramount to success.”

And so Forto was born. Premkumar started selling his coffee online, answering every customer email himself. He managed to find a base with the U.S. military, where the need for focus and energy is extraordinarily high.

“When Forto was selling well in every U.S. base, I realized this was going to be a big business,” Premkumar notes. “I also saw signs of big changes in both the energy drink and retail coffee markets, with buying patterns shifting and a new generation of consumers demanding great coffee, in a convenient format that saves them time. That is where Forto fits in and why it has such a loyal audience.”

Neel Premkumar's twin daughters who inspired the Forto coffee shot.CREDIT: Courtesy company
Neel Premkumar’s twin daughters who inspired the Forto coffee shot.CREDIT: Courtesy company

From family loan to national brand
Even though having the money come from his father-in-law added personal stress, Premkumar’s initial product success and market observation told him that asking for the loan had been the right choice. And, by staying laser focused, he managed to pay the $50,000 back in just 18 months.

Forto has skyrocketed, earning 400 percent year-over-year growth. It was named the Inc. 500’s No 1 fastest-growing beverage brand in America for 2017. And while the shots are available in more than 50,000 retail stores, the company announced today that the product will also be on the regular coffee shelves at 3,700 Walmart locations. It’s a massive win for Premkumar, as the entire point of the business has been to help customers boost their energy in a more convenient and inexpensive way.

Should you take the same risk to innovate?
Premkumar says he has zero regrets about the experience. But he points out that much of what made Forto work was just being in the right place at the right time. He came up with the shots right when people were changing the rituals they had around coffee, putting him in the ideal position to meet an emerging demand. And he and his team were serious about examining early adopters to understand why and when they downed the coffee. That allowed Premkumar to find and connect with more individuals for whom Forto was a great fit. Lastly, he didn’t hire and scale until that consumer understanding–and the product message built on it–was solid.

“Everyone’s tolerance for risk is different,” Premkumar says. “For me, bringing Forto’s two-ounce coffee shots to market was worth the risk, because I thought it provided a necessary solution to an everyday problem–a convenient coffee energy boost. I think fundamentally an entrepreneur’s job is about risk mitigation. A startup begins with maximum risk, but every step you take building the company reduces your risk ever so slightly. I was never worried about the competition, more about my own ability to figure out how to meet the consumer need and communicate that correctly to them before the money would run out!”

As for specific money tips, Premkumar says you should borrow only from people you trust. Ideally, those people should be OK with losing the loan. You also shouldn’t aim too high. Raising too much money can be a huge temptation to overspend, waste money, and hire more than or before you need to.

“If you do raise your first round from family or friends,” Premkumar advises, “make sure they have nerves of steel like my father-in-law did. They might need it!”

source: http://www.inc.com / Inc. / Home / by Wanda Thibodeux, copywriter, TakingDictation.com / June 19th, 2018

Hills plans to go big with coffee in cinchona land

Kalimpong (West Bengal ):

Four hundred farmers from Kalimpong have been selected to cultivate coffee in the land of tea nearly two centuries after British civil surgeon Archibald Campbell started tea plantations in the Hills way back in 1841.

Land of tea
Land of tea

Among them, 50 had been to the Coffee Research Institute at Chikmangalur in September. They will train the selected farmers.

Members of the Indian Coffee Board, agronomists who had come down to Kalimpong gave the goahead after preliminary soil tests and the weather conditions. A cool to temperate climate is ideal for coffee as it is for tea.

The Gorkhaland Territorial Administration had identified 400 acres of land in Kalimpong for coffee cultivation as a pilot project. The four such clusters are spread over Bhalokhop, Algarah, Gidbaling and Lolay Gaon, each having around 10-12 villages. Experts cleared the proposal for mass cultivation after the initial farming came out successful. “The idea is to develop a coffee brand, much like the Darjeeling tea. We have already advertised e-tenders for prospective agencies and will start the cultivation from June,” said Samuel Rai, director of Cinchona and Other Medicinal Plants in Mungpo. The land was lying idle for all these days after the state government shut the cinchona unit.

Experts have conducted workshops for five days with farmers and officials of the hill council. “Earlier, we had sent some farmers for training but the time was short. So we requested the Coffee Board to send experts to the hills to conduct workshop and interact with the farmers,” Rai said.

To maintain quality, GTA will only cultivate the Chandgiri variety of coffee beans. A central factory will also be set up in Kalimpong. “We will use the best quality seeds of the Arabic variety, which is more aromatic with less caffeine content. Also, the variety is suitable for the Hills. Roasting and grinding will be done in a centralized factory, but all other aspects, like peeling the skin, parchment and dehauling, will be done in the cluster level,” the Cinchona director said.

BV Suresh Kumar, deputy director (Research) Coffee Board, who was one of the team members, said: “Coffee cultivation in Kalimpong is in its infant stage. There is potential to be economically viable in the long run. The flavour is there but the yield has to be assessed,” he said.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / News> City News> Kolkata News / by Deep Gazmer / TNN / June 05th, 2018

World Coffee Championships move to Brazil

Following news earlier in the week that the World Coffee Championships in Dubai had been cancelled, World Coffee Events (WCE) announced it would move two of three events to Belo Horizonte, Brazil.

The Specialty Coffee Association and Dubai World Trade Centre mutually agreed on 24 May not to host the World Coffee Championships at GulfHost in September 2018.

GulfHost was to be the host event for the World Brewers Cup, World Cup Tasters Championship and World Coffee Roasters Championship.

WCE announced on 25 May that the first two events would move to International Coffee Week (ICW) in Brazil, taking place from the 7 to 9 of November, joining the World Latte Art Championship and World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship.

ICW is the largest coffee expo in Brazil. The sixth edition of the event will allow thousands of coffee producers to present the best of their harvest to buyers, roasters and international traders in Belo Horizonte, the capital of Minas Gerais State.

National coffee champions from more than 40 countries will attend ICW to compete in the four world championships.

The World Brewers Cup is the premiere event for manual coffee brewing, while the World Cup Taster Championship pits coffee cuppers against each other in lightning fast rounds. The World Latte Art Championship celebrates artistry with espresso and milk and the World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship recognizes the combination of coffee and alcohol.

The 2018 World Coffee Roasting Championship will also be moving to a new location, with details to be shared as soon as they are finalised.

source: http://www.gcrmag.com / Global Coffee Report / May 25th, 2018

Care for Some ‘Monsooned Malabar’? You’ll Love This Celebrated Coffee!

Among the foods that find a place on India’s GI tag registry list is a celebrated coffee that few Indian know about but which has a loyal following in the West — Monsooned Malabar.

Recently, West Bengal’s rasgulla officially became “Banglar Rosogolla” after the coveted Geographical Indication (GI) tag was bestowed on Calcutta gentleman Nabin Chandra Das’s luscious creation — a status hitherto enjoyed by only one other sweet from the state: the Joynagar Moa.

And its not just these iconic sweets. India’s GI registry has an assortment of culinary delights that can arrest any gastronome’s imagination and are often emblematic of a place or community.

Among the foods that find a place on this prestigious list is a celebrated coffee that few Indian know about but which has a loyal following in the US and Europe — Monsooned Malabar.

The pale-coloured Monsooned Malabar arabica, compared with green Yirgachefe beans from Ethiopia. /  Photo Source
The pale-coloured Monsooned Malabar arabica, compared with green Yirgachefe beans from Ethiopia. /
Photo Source

A singularly delicious coffee, the Monsooned Malabar had an accidental beginning. In the colonial era, British ships sailing to Europe around the Cape of Good Hope would find vast changes in the characteristics of their packed coffee, thanks to the salty moisture in the wooden cargo hold.

Losing their original taste and green colour during the 4-6 month long journey, the coffee beans would turn pale, attaining a brown straw-like colour and a pungent, musty flavour. Surprisingly, European coffee-drinkers seemed to prefer this heavy-bodied brew.

As transport improved with time (motorised liners began completing the journey in 20 days) and exposure to sea wins reduced, the beans began to stop changing en route. European consumers noticed that the coffee was losing the distinctive monotone flavour they were used to and asked for the aged coffee, which they thought tasted better.

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So, cultivators on the Malabar coast devised a new process to simulate the conditions that produced this unique coffee. Called Monsooning, this technique involves spreading out sun-dried beans in open-sided, cement-floored warehouses.

For the first week to 10 days, the coffee beans are turned over with wooden rakes every day. Next, the beans are arranged into “windrows” i.e jute sacks filled with coffee beans stored in rows with a passage-like space in between for the monsoon wind to blow through.

The coffee is then exposed to rain-bearing tropical winds from the Arabian Sea that lash the Western Ghats between June/July to September/October. Each batch goes through this process three times before the next batch of coffee is put on the floor.

This moisture-laden air triggers slight fermentation, causing the beans to swell to double their original size, turn pale and brittle. The absorption of moisture also reduces the inherent acidity found in popular varieties such as Arabica and Robusta. The result is a bold flavoured coffee with a smooth earthiness.

After the factory opens for regular workers with the end of the monsoon season, the beans are “polished” (the outer skin is removed) and graded, before being manually sorted to remove defects,. It is then bulked, fumigated and packed for export.

MonsoonedMalabar03KF29may2018

Over the years, Monsooned Malabar has become a much-in-demand component in several fine espresso blends (especially in the Scandinavian and German speciality roasted blends) to which it lends weight, body and its unusual chocolatey flavour. It is also sought by major international brands such as Nestle Nespresso, Benecke Coffee and Grecof.

Interestingly, Aspinwall & Co. Ltd., owned by the erstwhile royal family of Travancore, is a major exporter of the Monsooned Malabar and processes over 3,500 tonnes of coffee this year!

So have you decided when you want to head out and have a taste of your first cup of Monsooned Malabar?

(Edited By Vinayak Hegde)

source: http://www.thebetterindia.com / The Better India / Home> Food> History> Lede / by Sanchari Pal / May 14th, 2018

Brew hot, brew cold

 coffee  Cold brew method reduces coffee acidity by 60-70% Pic: Martin
coffee Cold brew method reduces coffee acidity by 60-70% Pic: Martin

Summer is not the best time for a hot drink, but what if you just can’t do without your usual dose of caffeine? Targeting this segment is cold brew coffee – a fad believed to have the potential to boost the global coffee market especially in the hot months when demand for the hot brew goes down.

What is cold brew coffee?

It’s a method of brewing where heat replaces time. Ground roasted coffee beans are allowed to brew in water anywhere between 12-24 hours at room temperature. The product is then filtered and packed for consumption.

Although the preparation method is basically the same across cafes, the number of brewing hours and the filtration method used varies. Delhi-based cold brew coffee company Sleepy Owl invests about 20 hours in seeping 100 per cent arabica beans from Chikmagalur, Karnataka. This is followed by a one-time sieve filtration method. The coffee comes packed in cartons with a tap and lasts up to a month.

Greenr Cafe, also in Delhi, gets its coffee beans from Chikmagalur too, but brews it for 24 hours and filters it twice – first by cloth and then paper. Labelled Martin, it’s cold brew comes in handy glass bottles and lasts three-four days.

On the other hand, Mumbai-based Koinonia Coffee Roasters sources green beans, roasts them in-house, and brews it for 18-24 hours finally filtering it. Served in glass bottles, the brew lasts up to 15 days.

Cold vs hot

The cold brew process, say its proponents, enhances flavour, and decreases the acidity by 60-70% which gives a less bitter concoction. “Heat causes very quick extraction making the hot-brewing method more acidic. The cold brew method, however, takes time resulting in more developed flavours,” says Shannon D’Souza, managing director and co-founder, Koinonia Coffee Roasters, who have been offering cold brew coffee since January last year.

Variants of cold brew

Like regular coffee, you could add milk to cold-brew coffee or prepare variants like latte. While Sleepy Owl, which largely does doorstep delivery, lets you experiment at home. Greenr Cafe and Koinonia Coffee Roasters offer several variations at their cafes in addition to delivering their standard ready-to-drink cold brew.

“For those who are very passionate about the original coffee flavour, dark Martin works best, but cold coffee lovers can go for condensed Martin. For the experimental patron, there is citrus Martin, a fizzy drink much like beer, and for vegans, we offer A Date With Martin, which is prepared by blending dates and almonds with the brew,” explains Nandini Bansal, co-founder of Martin. Koinonia Coffee Roasters offer infused cinnamon and coconut cold brew variants.

They have also partnered with eateries in Mumbai and Delhi, where cocktails are prepared with their brews. “Bastian in Mumbai offers a cold brew boulevardier cocktail and a Vietnamese spiked with Laphroaig. At The Grammar Room in Delhi, we’ve developed a chilli cumquat tequila sour with cinnamon cold brew in it,” explains D’Souza.

What about demand?

According to the entrepreneurs, it’s visibly growing. Sleepy Owl, for instance, became profitable within 12 months of launch, according to co-founder Ajai Thandi. The company also raised Rs 3.26 crore in a seed round founding led by DSG Consumer Partners in April this year. They have also launched dry cold-brew packs – that like teabags are dipped in water – only in this case it is left overnight.

source: http://www.dnaindia.com / DNA / Home> Just Before Monday / by Heena Khandelwal / May 27th, 2018

A better way of detecting bogus coffee beans

These coffee beans look good, but they may not be what they seem(Credit: racorn/Depositphotos)
These coffee beans look good, but they may not be what they seem(Credit: racorn/Depositphotos)

If you’ve seen even one advertisement for premium coffee, then you’ve probably heard someone going on about “100 percent pure Arabica beans” … but does the coffee really only contain Arabicas? A new method makes it quicker, cheaper and easier to find out.

Arabica beans are generally considered to be better tasting than cheaper Robusta beans, which trade at as little as half the price. Combined with the fact that Robustas are higher-yielding and easier to grow, this makes it tempting for some companies to surreptitiously cut their Arabica-based coffee with a bit of Robusta.

Traditionally, the only way of checking the purity of Arabica coffee involves testing samples for the presence of a chemical known as 16-O-methylcafestol (16-OMC) – it has long been thought that the compound is present in Robusta beans, but not in Arabica. Unfortunately, samples need to be sent off to a lab for analysis, and processing of those samples takes approximately three days.

Now, however, researchers from Britain’s Quadram Institute have discovered that a Pulsar benchtop NMR (nuclear magnetic resonance) spectrometer made by Oxford Instruments can do the same thing on-site in just 30 minutes. The device uses radio waves and magnetic fields to obtain information about the molecular composition of a sample, and can reportedly be easily operated by non-specialists. It’s previously been utilized to detect horse meat in ground beef.

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In lab tests, it was used to analyze 60 samples of supposedly 100-percent Arabica coffees gathered from 11 different coffee-growing countries and regions around the world. While 90 percent of those samples were deemed to be pure, the rest had high enough 16-OMC levels to indicate fraud.

The spectrometer can detect Robusta concentrations as low as 1 percent in blended coffees. In fact, it turned out to be sensitive enough to reveal that even Arabica beans do contain small amounts of 16-OMC. Therefore, the testing procedure had to be adapted to allow for a threshold amount of the chemical, which will be detected regardless of whether or not Robusta is present.

A paper on the research was recently published in the journal Food Chemistry.

Sources: Quadram Institute, Oxford Instruments

source: http://www.newatlas.com / NewAtlas.com / Home> Science / by Ben Coxworth / May 17th, 2018

The Coffee Freak: How One Man Finds (and Sells) the World’s Best Coffee Beans

Coffee maven Joseph Brodsky with his prized trees in Panama  / Travis Horn
Coffee maven Joseph Brodsky with his prized trees in Panama / Travis Horn

FROM OUR HILLTOP vantage point in northern Panama, Costa Rica is visible to the west and Volcán Barú, Panama’s tallest mountain, to the east. A canopy of rain forest stretches to the horizon, and it feels as if we’re walking through untamed wilderness. The only hint otherwise is a gang of coffee pickers in rubber boots, huddled together and sifting through the day’s harvest. “You can’t know this place until you know the forest,” says the farm’s founder, Joseph Brodsky, gesturing at the view before us. “This is where the flavor comes from.”

Brodsky is giving me a tour of his 450-acre coffee plantation, and the next stop is the Rio Colorado, which marks the property’s eastern border. Getting there requires descending more than 900 feet via a series of switchbacks. Brodsky, 44, carries his weight, all 142 pounds of it, in his toes, bounding over knee-high vegetation with an agility that comes from a lifetime playing soccer. Upon reaching the river, he announces that it’s chigger season, removes his shirt and pants, and jumps into the water to rinse off the noxious mites. Stripped to his boxers, he props himself up into a headstand on a flat rock just above the rapids. After 90 seconds upside down, watching the water churn around him, he lowers his feet and sits up.

“What an amazing way to view the river!” he says.

Brodsky, center, and workers survey the farm before the day’s work begins / Travis Horn
Brodsky, center, and workers survey the farm before the day’s work begins / Travis Horn

If the coffee world has an Elon Musk, it’s Brodsky. His big idea is to transform coffee beans from a basic commodity, like orange juice, into a savored luxury, like fine wine. His bluster is matched only by his ambition. The name of his company, Ninety Plus, is a reference to the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point scale. No one has been awarded a grade better than 97. Ninety Plus has hit that mark three times and will put out only beans that rate above 90. A pound of Ninety Plus coffee retails for an average of $48, but at an auction last year, a lot sold wholesale for a record $2,269 per pound to a roaster in Asia. At the time, basic beans were going for a dollar a pound.

“Joseph has developed a completely unique product,” says renowned roaster George Howell, who has earned a lifetime achievement award from the SCA. “With my first taste, there was this floral note that I’d never had before. I don’t even have to drink the coffee to enjoy it. I could just smell the aromatics for hours.”

NOT LONG AGO, coffee came in regular and decaf—and that was about it. Then Starbucks came along and upended the business, creating slick coffee shops with dark-roasted espresso and elaborate milk drinks. Soon a long list of specialty roasters followed suit, and consumers got used to shelling out $5 for a Venti Americano. But to this day, except in diehard circles, you rarely know more about the beans than what country they come from. Brodsky’s big vision is to turn that idea on its head, creating high-end coffees that are distinguished, and ordered at the cafe by the name of the farm on which the beans were grown, as wine is distinguished by vineyard.

“The big coffee brands that people know are roasters, like Nescafé or Starbucks,” he says. “But nobody can name a coffee producer. We can be that brand.”

Coffee has been a passion of Brodsky’s since he was a kid growing up in Madison, Wisconsin. He and his older brother—now the owner of JBC Coffee Roasters in Madison—would often roast beans in a popcorn popper for fun. Years later, when Brodsky was attending Evergreen State College, he read a book called Coffee Basics, which described a bean from Ethiopia with blueberry and lemon flavors. Intrigued, he sought out the coffee, tasted it, and suddenly knew what he wanted to do with his life. In 2000, at 26 years old, Brodsky left school to open Novo Coffee in Denver with the help of his dad and another brother. Their goal was to focus on roasting and selling those Ethiopian beans. But consistency was a problem. “I’d have to sort through 200 coffees to find maybe one that I liked,” says Brodsky.

After traveling to Ethiopia to judge a coffee competition in 2005, Brodsky decided to stay until he had a better grasp on why the beans were so variable. The move wound up being semi-permanent. Brodsky quickly discovered that farmers had no incentive to improve their products because everything was being sold for the same price, often mixed together.

“In wine, there’s a feedback loop between taste, research, and development,” he says. “Coffee didn’t have that. Most growers today still don’t know the taste of their beans.”

So Brodsky partnered with local farmers to develop beans and, for the next four years, bounced between the U.S. and Ethiopia tasting each harvest. When the coffee was good, he’d have the farmer duplicate the procedures that created it. One bean that always stood out was called “gesha,” an heirloom varietal that many farmers ignored due to its low yield. But gesha is delicious and intensely fruity, and Brodsky began growing more of it, eventually selling the beans under the name Ninety Plus.

As he was experimenting in Ethiopia, other farmers began planting gesha in Panama, and in 2009, Brodsky signed a $1.6 million loan on a cattle ranch there, just 15 miles from the border with Costa Rica. His first step was to plant thousands of castor plants and palo blanco trees, which produce no sellable crop but provide ample shade and nourish the soil. Then he sprinkled in the geshas, spacing them far apart so they wouldn’t have to compete for nutrients. It generally takes five years for coffee trees to mature, so to keep his cash-strapped farm afloat, Brodsky continued working with Ethiopian farmers while trying to woo investors.

Travis Horn
Travis Horn

“I had rejections from the biggest players in the industry,” he says. “They’d visit the farm, fall in love, but then be too scared to invest.”

Finally, in 2014, Ninety Plus Gesha Estates sold its first beans. That same year, during the World Brewers Cup, an annual event to determine who can create the best cup of joe, master brewer Stefanos Domatiotis won using Brodsky’s beans. It was the first in a series of four straight wins, an unheard-of distinction.

During my visit to the farm in December, Domatiotis, a tall Greek from Athens, was on hand to inspect the early harvest. When he caught me eyeing some samples, he offered up a cup by asking, “Washed or natural?”

“Natural,” I said.

Travis Horn
Travis Horn

Where washed processing relies on water to rinse the cherry away from the bean (technically the seed of the fruit), natural processing allows the cherry to dry up and ferment on the bean and pass along wild flavors. Traditionally, natural processing has been used only on cheap coffee or beans grown in areas where water is scarce. But Brodsky showed that by following strict rules and controlling the environment, he could use natural fermentation to enhance the flavor—just one of his many innovations. In one of the farm’s wilder experiments, Brodsky and a visiting barista submerged beans in a 50-degree river and turned them twice daily for 10 days. “It smelled like champagne,” says Brodsky. It was probably the world’s first cold-fermented coffee, and it went on to win the 2015 Japan Barista Championship.

After brewing, Domatiotis served me a coffee that tasted like a velvety rich version of Earl Grey tea sweetened with some kind of berry. It was easily the best cup I’ve ever had.

“Too carbonic,” Domatiotis said.

“Yep,” Brodsky agreed. “With a better roast we can improve this by 15 to 30 percent.”

Travis Horn
Travis Horn

Later, Brodsky and Domatiotis began sampling the first 35 coffees harvested this season. They rattled off flavors with the cadence of auctioneers: miso, banana and carob, black pepper, avocado oil, and dulce de leche. Their ability to isolate individual flavors felt as if they were identifying cuts of steak by the sound of the sizzle. One aroma was characterized as “red pepper, but it wants to be savory and fruity at once.”

I simply nodded, stole a couple of sips, and asked, “Is ‘fucking good’ a useful descriptor?”

ON THE HEELS OF NINETY PLUS, natural-processed coffees are becoming increasingly common, and some producers, such as Colombia’s La Palma & El Tucán and the Australia-based Project Origin, are also experimenting with fermentation.

Brodsky inspects one of his gesha trees, hidden under the rain forest canopy / Travis Horn
Brodsky inspects one of his gesha trees, hidden under the rain forest canopy / Travis Horn

“We live in a time when people are indulging in better-quality beverages,” says Thomas Perez, CEO of Brooklyn’s Extraction Lab, which sells Ninety Plus for $18 a cup. “And the more you learn about coffee—just like with wine or beer or whatever you like—the more it becomes about quality over quantity.”

Currently most Ninety Plus beans are sold in Asia, where a high-end tea trade has made people more receptive to shelling out for delicate flavors. Over the next few years, Brodsky plans to push hard into the U.S. and launch a new brand, Baru Gesha, for beans that are just a few points shy of the Ninety Plus name. That’ll keep the flagship product strong while providing a better entry price for curious drinkers. “We’re still infants,” Brodsky says. “When people compliment my coffee, I say, ‘Thank you, but next year will be better.’ We’re already seen as the best in the world, but we haven’t done shit yet.”

Buy Brodsky’s Beans
Most Ninety Plus coffee is sold to roasters in Asia, but here’s where to find it in the U.S.

Eccentricity Coffee, Cleveland
The large selection of Ninety Plus beans are held in cold storage and roasted to order, with prices ranging from $27 to $100 for a 12 ounce bag. eccentricitycoffee.com

Bar Nine, Culver City, California
Buy beans by the bag or through the Bar Nine home-subscription program. barnine.us

JBC Coffee, Madison, Wisconsin
The founder, Michael Johnson, is Brodsky’s half-brother and a licensed Q Grader-essentially a sommelier of coffee. jbccoffeeroasters.com

source: http://www.mensjournal.com / Men’s Journal / Home> The Coffee Freak / by Clint Carter

Understanding the science called artisan coffee

ArtisanCoffeeKF11may2018

The science of Artisan coffee involves controlling and roasting the green beans and depends on the roasters visual and tasting sensibility.

Be it food or a cup of coffee – one doesn’t compromise on their quality. The third wave coffee movement brings to you– hand-picked coffee, also known as artisan coffee.

What sets it apart from regular coffee is that the artisan coffee growers carefully select the seeds, mill and dry the coffee beans. It is then converted into powder or grainy form by the roaster.

The science of Artisan coffee involves controlling and roasting the green beans and depends on the roasters visual and tasting sensibility.

Under this method, coffee growers roast their own seeds and keep it sealed and sell it. The Artisan coffee is popularly called the ‘handcrafted’ coffee that smells exactly the way it does when it is picked from the shrubs.

Coffee plantation owners are literally taking the ownership of milling process and investing in state-of-the-art micro mills that allows them to design their coffee and separate them into micro lots with different characteristics.

This step enhances the attributes of terroir and adds a signature flavour to your cup of coffee. So, the next time you want to pick out some this delicious coffee, see where the product was grown and roasted.

Artisan coffee makers have also replaced the customary practice of middlemen selling to customers, thereby decreasing adulteration.

source: http://www.telanganatoday.com / Telangana Today / Home / by Fatima Hasan, Telangana Today / May 08th, 2018

India’s maiden honour – Bhandari to chair ICO consultative board for a year

India, for the first time, will chair the board of International Coffee Organization (ICO) for a term of one year with Anil Kumar Bhandari, president of India Coffee Trust (ICT), getting elected as the chairman of Private Sector Consultative Board (PSCB) of ICO.

PSCB is an international coffee organisation body comprising 16 leading industry representatives from producing and consuming countries. The board’s main mission and objective is to increase the world coffee market in value and volume and also support various initiatives in the field of coffee and health.

Bhandari is the first representative from India to occupy the important position and his election is significant in the backdrop of World Coffee Conference (WCC) scheduled in Bengaluru, in April 2020.

Speaking about his election, Bhandari said, “My election as chairman, Private Sector Consultative Board of International Coffee Organization is an honour for India and India Coffee Trust. This is the first time that India has chaired the PSCB. I see this as the confidence reposed in India and ICT, going into the World Coffee Conference in 2020, which would be hosted by India and will be held for the first time in Asia. It also indicates the interest that the global coffee sector has in the Indian coffee industry and the Indian coffee market.”

The 121st Session of International Coffee Council (ICC) under ICO was held in Mexico City from April 9 to 13, 2018. ICO is an intergovernmental body of coffee buying & producing nations, having more than 72 member countries and India is one of the founding member.

It is the main intergovernmental organisation for coffee, bringing together exporting and importing governments to tackle the challenges facing the global sector through international cooperation. Its objective is to strengthen and promote its sustainable expansion in a market-based environment for the betterment of all participants in the coffee sector.

source: http://www.fnbnews.com / FnBnews.com / Home> TopNews / by FnB News Bureau, Bengaluru / April 30th, 2018