Tag Archives: Naren Thimmaiah

Tales of the Coast in the Capital

Chef Naren Thimmaiah brings the flavours of Karavalli to Varq, a pioneer of award-winning modern Indian fine-dining

The timeless Taj Mahal, New Delhi and its award winning restaurant Varq proudly welcomed the culinary legend of the south – Karavalli from Vivanta Bengaluru, Residency Road. This year, as Varq embarks on its 15th year anniversary voyage, it will feature unique gastronomic pop-ups, new innovations and reinvented concepts in the year ahead.

Varq, symbolic of preciousness, luxury and elegance, is the birth place of modern Indian cuisine in the Capital. Karavalli’s voyage to Varq, was the perfect marriage of authentic Indian south-west coastal cuisine with contemporary flair and artistic presentation. The unique pop-up presented an exquisite experience wherein culinary legend Chef Naren Thimmaiah, from Karavalli, showcased a special coastal menu celebrating authentic flavours and treasured recipes.

The uniquely curated presentation included dishes like Malabar Prawn Roast, Meen Porichathu (Shallow Fried Black Pomfret), Calamari Fry, Attirachy Ularthu (Lamb Roast) Chattambade (Fried Lentil Patties), Patrade (Colocasia Leaf Roll), Chevod Balchao (Lobster in Pickled Spice), Alappuzha Meen Curry (Alleppy Fish Curry), Pachakkari Stew (Vegetable Stew), Kashi Halwa (Ah Gourd Pudding) and Ragi Manni (Finger Millet Pudding).

Celebrated Chef Naren Thimmaiah, Executive Chef, Vivanta Bengaluru, Residency Road said, “I am delighted to return to the iconic Taj Mahal, New Delhi and its renowned restaurant Varq. Karavalli’s coastal delicacies have made their way into the heart of the South and we can’t wait to share our passion with patrons of Delhi-NCR. We take pride in our authenticity, the promise of quality and the connection with our roots. With the capital’s bustling culture of food, there couldn’t have been a better place than Varq, the birth place of modern Indian cuisine in New Delhi, to showcase our special Karavalli culinary art.”

Speaking on the occasion, Chef Arun Sundararaj, Director of Culinary Operations at Taj Mahal, New Delhi said, “We have been committed to offering immersive dining experiences to our patrons. Varq has been the one stop dining destination for celebrating the unique flavours of India, pop-ups by Michelin Starred Chefs from around the globe and for curating culinary art and innovation. Chef Naren Thimmaiah is a legend in the epicurean world and we are humbled to welcome him once again at Varq.  The confluence of Karavalli and Varq will present a tantalizing experience of exotic coastal recipes combined with fine dining with art.”

 Chef Naren Thimmaiah has been the face of the iconic Karavalli for over two decades. He holds the distinction of participating in the World Gourmet Summit held at Singapore in the year 2005. In February 2009, at the Government of India, National Tourism awards held at New Delhi, Naren Thimmaiah was adjudged as the Best Chef of India. Economic Times rated Chef Naren Thimmaiah among Top 10 Chefs of India – 5th place. December 2018, Times Food & Nightlife Awards – Chef Naren Thimmaiah was awarded Chef of the Year.  In August 2019, at the Eazydiner Awards, Naren Thimmaiah was awarded The Lifetime Achievement Award. In March 2022, he was recognized among the Top 10 Chefs in India by Culinary Culture.

source: http://www.bwhotelier.businessworld.in / BWHotelier.com / Home / by BW Online Bureau / March 27th, 2023

Kodagu’s monsoon delicacies

Traditional treats

As monsoon was the prime season to sow paddy — Kodagu’s main crop in the days of yore — people had no time for any other activity. So, this season was regarded as inauspicious and no ceremonies or celebrations were held. In between, the people would forage for these seasonal treats and prepare mouth-watering delicacies.

Processed bamboo shoots being sold in Kodagu. Photos by Arjun Bopanna, Niveditha Harish and Nisha Poovaiah

The aromas of baimbale curry (bamboo shoots curry), kummu curry (mushroom curry), kembu curry (colocasia curry), njand curry (crab curry), bhel meen curry (fish found in flooded paddy fields), pole meen curry (stream fish curry), therme thoppu palya (fiddlehead fern fry) are indicative of monsoon in this district located in the Western Ghats. These dishes are exclusively prepared during the wet months.

“The foremost reason these dishes are consumed only during the monsoon months is that the main ingredients such as aal kummu, baimbale are only available during this season,” says Chef Naren Thimmaiah.

According to Naren, cooking styles in each region would have developed purely on a trial-and-error basis. “Our elders would have realised when to eat what, the good and bad traits of a dish through experience,” he adds.

Purple delight

Unique sweet dishes prepared during this season are maddh payasa and maddh putt from maddh thoppu (Justicia Wynaadensis). Maddh translates to medicine in Kodava language and thoppu is leaf. The extract obtained from the leaves and stems of this plant imparts a beautiful, deep bluish-purple colour to the dish. 

These dishes are prepared and consumed only on Kakkada padinett, the eighteenth day of kakkada month (early August) in the Kodava calendar, when this plant is believed to have accumulated 18 medicinal properties.

The plant, rich in antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties, is said to improve overall health. Its anti-microbial properties are also said to boost immunity during the monsoon months, when one is more likely to fall ill.

Another quintessential monsoon dish is baimbale curry made from bamboo shoots. The shoots are cut into small pieces and soaked in water for two days to remove the acidic toxins. The shoots are said to have anti-inflammatory, anti-ulcer, anti-diabetic and anti-oxidant properties. The baimbale curry is best had with akki roti called otti.

A woman preparing Kodagu delicacies. Photos by Arjun Bopanna, Niveditha Harish and Nisha Poovaiah

Surprise yields

Mushrooms, called kummu, also make great ingredients. These edible fungi grow in small patches and gathering them is a fun activity but it takes a trained eye to distinguish between edible and poisonous mushrooms. 

Another Kodava delicacy is prepared from fiddlehead ferns, called therme thoppu. These ferns are found near the banks of water bodies such as ponds, streams and rivers. Only the tender shoots of these wild ferns are selectively picked. The easiest way to cook it is to saute it with onions, dried chillies and salt. It is best had with otti. 

Like therme thoppu, kembu (colocasia) is generally found near water bodies and marshy lands. There are three varieties of kembu: red stemmed (chonda) kembu, green stemmed kembu and mara kembu. Mara kembu grows under the shelter of large trees. While Tulunadu is famous for the patrodes made from colocasia leaves, in Kodagu people mainly prepare curry using it.

With the onset of the monsoon, people also make dishes from jackfruit seeds.

Apart from these seasonal plants, people also get a good catch of crabs and fish in the flooded paddy fields and streams. Piping hot curries prepared from crabs and fish add to the charm of the monsoon months.

“All the traditional food prepared during the chilly monsoon season adds heat to the body. Also, pepper is used widely in the region, which again adds heat to the body,” Naren says.

Naren explains that as the people were expected to work in the rains and were most likely to get cuts and wounds, the food consumed would build up body temperature and aid in quicker healing of the wounds. “There were no tablets available then, the the foods themselves had medicinal values,” he says.

Preserved for future use

While these dishes are prepared only in the rainy season, bamboo shoots, jackfruit seeds, hog plums (ambatte) and fish are preserved for later use.

Bamboo shoots and hog plums are stored in brine; fish are coated with salt, smoked and dried.

These foods are so culturally ingrained that people staying elsewhere either make it a point to go to Kodagu to procure these food items or get their relatives to send across these delicacies.

“The food items sourced from Kodagu have an altogether different taste. So, preparing dishes by getting the ingredients from Kodagu is a special feeling,” says Sudha Poovaiah, who is settled in Bengaluru. 

source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> Spectrum> Spectrum Top Stories / by Dhanyata M Poovaiah / September 18th, 2021

Tracking the carb-free dinner trend

Sidhartha Mallya follows this mantra as do Hollywood’s first family — Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt. The mantra of carb-free dinners is what we are getting at. Chef Vvivek Salunkhe of Skyye Bar, UB City reveals, “Sidhartha Mallya almost always orders for grilled chicken whenever he comes here. And while he eats a lot of grilled chicken, he absolutely avoids rice.” Celebrities aside, have fitness-conscious Bangaloreans taken a fancy to a carb-free dinner plan to watch the pounds? It is a categorical yes from popular chefs in the city. Chef Naren Thimmaiah of the Gateway Hotel attributes this trend of diet-consciousness to greater awareness.

He says, “Earlier, healthy food was synonymous with bland, un-fried, tasteless food, a reason why people didn’t take to it much. Those days dieting was a fad” he says and reckons that today, “with greater awareness, people have realised that following a healthy diet is essential.” Offering an instance, he says “While earlier, one didn’t know about the logic behind fasting, today easy access to information gives one the scientific reasons behind it,” he says. As a mindful eater, the chef reveals his eating rule: heavy breakfast, normal lunch and very light dinner.” He explains: “While daytime metabolism and being active in the day ensure that your breakfast gets digested quickly, lower metabolism at night justifies going for a light dinner.”

Other Bangaloreans might be prescribing to a similar logic. For instance, Chef Nimish Bhatia of The Lalit Ashok is seeing a perceptible change in the eating pattern of Bangaloreans. He says, “The preference for carb-free dinners is growing to a certain extent. Diners today want low-carb, high-protein dishes, for both lunch and dinner.” “They are eating shorter meals over the day. The portion-size is getting smaller,” is another observation of his. And if the chef is to be believed, it is the soup and salad section in the buffet that’s getting popular. And what’s more, diners avoid bread and thick soups, opting instead for the clearer varieties!

Customising menus
For most of the leading hotels and restaurants,changing dietary preferences of the clientele means changing the menus to suit their needs. Here, the hotels seem to have gone one step ahead. As Chef Naren Thimmaiah says, “Around 90 to 95 per cent of our clientele are 25- 35 years old business travellers who travel for 18 or 20 days a month. Now, while they may be aware of the need to eat healthy et al, time constraints don’t give them the privilege to do so.” That’s a reason why the hotel’s adopted the ‘Active food’ concept. The Active food concept focuses on the ingredients that go into a dish, instead of the cooking style. Foods that are low on starch, high on anti-oxidants and foods that have low glycemic levels go into making a dish.

Skyye’s Vvivek Salunkhe might not exactly have diet-conscious diners streaming in. He points out: “Most of the people who come to Skyye bar have had their drinks and are already high on carbs. I haven’t come across a single guest who asks for help with a no-carb menu.” While that may be the case, Vvivek says that while designing the menu, he consciously decided to have more grilled, low-fat, steamed items. So, while you won’t find French fries in the menu, steamed peanuts and corn in olive oil with cayenne-pepper will certainly be on offer.

Incidentally, supermodel Elle McPherson too credits her flat board abs to following a carb-free dinner. Some food for thought, that?

Recipes for a Carb-free dinner

Mediterranean grilled vegetable platter

Ingredients
(Serves 4)
Zucchini – 200 gm
Yellow squash – 200 gm
Red pepper – 100 gm
Green pepper – 100 gm
Yellow pepper – 100 gm
Mushroom – 100 gm
Egg plant -200 gm
Cherry tomato – 100 gm
Broccoli – 200 gm
Olive oil – 30 ml
Basil shredded – 20 gm
Garlic -30 gm
Balsamic vinegar – 20ml
Salt – to taste
Pepper – 10 gm
Pesto sauce – 30 gm
Basil leaves – few

Method
1. Cut zucchini, yellow squash and eggplant in to thick slices, peppers in to triangles and broccoli in to florets
2. Marinate all the vegetables with basil, garlic, balsamic, salt, pepper and olive oil
3. Grill on a hot griddle till cooked
4. Arrange in a plate and serve garnished with pesto drizzles and basil leaves

Poached fish with spinach & tomato mushroom broth

Ingredients
(Serves 4)
Mushroom – 250 gm
Leeks white and light green parts sliced – 50 gm
Chopped onion – 30 gm
Chopped ginger – 10 gm
Garlic finely chopped – 20 gm
Tomato blanched and chopped – 50 gm
Olive oil – 25 ml
Vegetable stock – 750 ml
Salt – to taste
Poached Fish
Fish fillet (90 gm each)
Ginger julienne – 40 gm
Carrot julienne – 40 gm
Celery julienne – 40 gm
Salt – to taste
Pepper – 5 gm
Lime juice – 10 ml
Spinach base
Olive oil – 15 ml
Garlic – 15 gm
Spinach leaves (cleaned) – 100 gm
Salt – to taste
Dill sprig (for garnish)

Method
1.Trim and discard mushroom stems. Slice caps and set aside.
2. In a large saucepan sautés leek, onion, garlic ginger with little oil. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes or until very soft. Add mushrooms and tomato to the stock. Bring to a gentle boil, season with salt, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes.
3. Marinate the fish with salt, pepper and juliennes of ginger carrot and celery and pour little broth and poach till done.
4. Sauté garlic in olive oil, add spinach, sauté till wilted .Drain the excess water season with salt.
5. Arrange the fish in deep dish over spinach and pour more mushroom broth over the fish garnish with julienne vegetables from the fish.

Recipe courtesy – The Gateway Hotel
source: http://www.dnaindia.com / Home> Lifestyle> Report / by Mahalakshmi Prabhakaran / Bangalore / DNA / Tuesday, October 11th, 2011