With Indian cuisine in focus both globally and locally, there has never been a better time to chronicle Indian culinary culture in all its diversity. Rushina Munshaw Ghildiyal, herself the custodian of Uttarakhandi food, showcases 16 other women who are each committed to keeping their own culinary heritage alive. These are some of India’s most passionate culinary custodians, who are driving conversations around and exploration of regional, micro regional and community cuisines through media, books, TV, home delivery menus from their own home kitchens, and pop-ups at restaurants.

Kaveri Ponnapa 

Kodava Food
Kaveri Ponnapa is a Bengaluru-based independent writer on gastronomy and heritage, who is thought of as synonymous with Kodava culture and cuisine.

Why We Think Kaveri Is A Culinary Custodian
While researching her first book The Vanishing Kodavas, Kaveri spent a significant amount of time in the villages of Kodagu (Coorg), connected with the local people, and got a first-hand experience of their lifestyle, which is still connected with the land. The Vanishing Kodavas is acclaimed as a cultural study of the Kodava people based on 15 years of fieldwork documenting their history, customs, worship and cultural practices. Kaveri’s writings on these subjects have been published in leading national and global publications. Her website The Vanishing Kodavas, blog The Coorg Table and its Facebook page continue to be unique rich resources for information and authentic recipes and are followed by audiences from across India and the globe including the Kodava diaspora, as well as people fascinated by the unique cuisine of this small community. Her current project, based on her observations of how a cuisine is born out of a particular landscape, culture and history, is a book documenting the culinary culture of the Kodava community from an anthropological and cultural perspective, enriched with information on local ingredients, practices and recipes including many that are no longer eaten or being forgotten. Kaveri has curated successful Kodava food festivals with ITC Windsor, been consultant to the Leela Palace and Taj MG Road Bengaluru on Kodava cuisine, and continues to train chefs and speak about the cuisine at hospitality institutions such as The Oberoi Centre for Learning and Development, Delhi.

What We’ve Learned About Kodava Cuisine Through Kaveri
– Kachampuli is a souring and thickening agent indispensable to Kodava cuisine. Every kitchen will have a bottle or three of this dark, tart vinegar – made for centuries from the ripe fruits of the Garcinia gummi gutta tree, indigenous to Kodagu – stored away. It is a signature flavour in all the classic Coorg dishes.

– Rice is central to Coorg cuisine and used in many forms. Tari is washed, dried and hand-pounded rice that breaks down roughly into three to four bits and is used to make all the Coorg puttus. Akki podi is finely-powdered rice, used to make rice rotis and batters for some fried sweets.
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Kartha masala, or black masala, is a signature spice blend made of slowly dry roasted, ground spices that lends a characteristic flavour to many classic recipes. The basic ingredients of cumin, mustard seeds, black peppercorns and fenugreek seeds are roasted slowly to a coffee-brown colour, powdered and used in curries. A few other spices might be used too, depending on the recipe.

Access Kaveri’s Wealth Of Knowledge
Website: kaveriponnapa.com/category/the-coorg-table/; thevanishingkodavas.com
Facebook: The Coorg Table, Kaveri Ponnapa
Instagram: @kaverikamb
Twitter: KaveriPonnapa

Images: Kaveri Ponnapa

source: http://www.femina.in / Femina.in / Home> Trending> Achievers / by Femina Food / July 22nd, 2023